JMortensen

Maybe I'm crazy, but I used to drive my L28/E31 .490/280 with the triples in traffic with a 12lb flywheel and ACT clutch every day for ~5 years. Never bothered me, did just fine. Totally agree with this statement, which is why SU's are better street carbs, I also agree with the second part (with SU's). With triples though, I just don't see these standards holding up. I have a friend who just built a race motor and used the .460/270 cam and is now kicking himself over it. My first engine used a milder cam like that, and the triples couldn't suck enough air with it. Bottom line for me, if you're going to go triples, you might as well get a cam that allows you to use them for what they're good for--3K and up power. They aren't good for 1500 rpm pulls, if that's what you want you should sell the trips, buy some ported SU's and get the smaller cam. But that is just my opinion...

Good point. I wonder if might be at least marginally streetable with some rotating weight.

Really? I thought high rpm idles like that were either for super long duration or very very stiff springs. I don't think you're doing the super stiff spring thing, because that would defeat the purpose of having the single springs... long duration??? The other guy was Mark, not John. Wasn't Mark going to put his in a semi-street car? Like something you just drive to the track... Dan Baldwin has a similar cam in his engine, but with more lift (possibly less duration?) He drives to the track. I wonder what his idle is set at? Here's that thread:http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30595&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=sunbelt+cam&start=0

There's nothing wrong with the L26, but people don't seem to want to buy one because you can usually get the bigger L28 for the same $$$. If you can find someone with a 240 or 260 who needs an engine, you should be able to sell it. It would definitely help to know what cam is in it. You could measure the lift with a dial indicator the multiply by 1.5 to figure at least that much out.

I gotta agree with Drax on this one. I think my cam could be a little bigger. I have a .490/280 with triple 44s. Usually I think people tend to go too huge most things, but for some reason I've been hearing about or seeing lots of sidedraft carbed Zs with .460/260, which IMO is just not enough cam. Low end cam and top end carb = crappy. Sunbelt makes a really cool sounding cam with .537 lift and unspecified duration that John Coffey and I think another John (sorry I forgot your name) are using. It only uses one valve spring, so you reduce friction by a lot, and you can still spin it up to 7200 rpm. I think that will probably be my next cam. Only issue then is will it be necessary to fly cut the pistons for clearance. Search for Sunbelt cam and I'm sure you'll find the info on it. The last guy to get one actually got the phone number for Sunbelt and a price of something like $400 for cam AND the single valve springs. EDIT--Just noticed you're in Oz, probably better to go for the next hotter grind from your cam grinder then. Something in the .500 to .510 lift, and in the 290 to 300 duration range. Yes, it will lope.

Have you checked the float level?

My buddy's 70 Ford 302 was factory rated at 300 hp with a 2 bbl. I don't think a stock 64 cam is much of a limitation. Not like a stock 79 cam, if you see what I'm getting at. No SMOG!!!

That is cool as ****, if you know what I mean.

Forget the cherry bomb. Most of them are HORRIBLE for flow. Really horrible. If you look inside them the pipe that goes through doesn't just have holes drilled in it. Sometimes it's more like a cheese grater, where the ends of each hole is bent into the stream of the exhaust flow. Even though this doesn't look like a big restriction and you can see right through the thing, it is a very big restriction. You want CHEAP and decent quality? Last Dynomax SuperTurbo I bought was $29.49 from http://www.jcwhitney.com. It's a GOOD muffler with minimal backpressure, and cheap.

Stock is close to 1.25mm. Not going to make a really noticeable difference and if anything the higher comp would make you that much more likely to ping. Ask Bastaad what to expect hp wise. I want to say he made 170whp with basically the same setup, but that's all from memory. I thought there was a rule, like 15hp per point of comression. If ON3GO made 145 stock, and you've basically raised the compression 1.5 points, you should make ~165 or so. Cam, porting, etc will add to that.

When searched exactly as I described above (these are SOME from the first 2 pages that looked particularly good): http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30602&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=29266&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=19884&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20390&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20736&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=20899&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21616&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21661&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14323&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14127&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22227&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22074&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24591&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=26360&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28282&highlight=turbo+stroker http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28973&highlight=turbo+stroker

Uh, don't the round port heads have the steel liners in them? And aren't they cast in really deep? I think you'd be better off cleaning up the exhaust ports and running your square port header. IIRC the square port header will seal a round port head, but you get a huge flow restriction if you use a round port header with a square port head. I'd say clean it up and run it, or get another head.

Try again. Go to the search screen under my sig. Use the words turbo and stroker as the search key. Click on the "search for all terms" button underneath where you enter in the search terms. Then click on 6 cyl Tech Board. You'll get lots of good info there. I didn't try in the supercharger/turbo forum, but a lot of stuff is geared towards V8's here. Look around a bit. Do some creative searching. You'll find what you're looking for.

Use the search function. Click on the link in my sig. Tons of info on turbo strokers here.

205s on 7s 225s on 8s Keep looking though. Just search the web for "custom circle track steel wheels spun shell" or some combination thereof...

If he's not saying that it requires 105 octane gas, then I'm doubting that it has 330 hp.

My formula: Permatex Ultra Grey, about 1/8" thick bead, hand tighten. Let sit for 1 hour or so until it starts to get hard, then tighten like normal. Worked for me on my Toyota and both Z motors.

I was immediately reminded of this:

So ZR8ED, DOES IT WORK???

Well I wasn't going to say anything, but I've been using Paulsens on mycar for... well... forever. I bought them because that's what my friend had, and I didn't know any better. Now I wish I had considered some lighter wheels. Diamond Racing Wheels http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/ has some lighter options, still cheap, and there are many many more out there. I can tell you that I've slammed curbs on the track at 90+ and never bent a rim, but if I were to do it over I'd go for a more fragile but lighter wheel. I'd think you could find a 15 x 7 at about 15lbs or maybe even less in steel. Rotating weight makes a big difference.

So, uhh, squirrely kids then...

Squid=squirrely kid. Commonly applied to ricer types who would show up at an autox in their slammed Honda on 18's with a HUGE attitude and then be utterly shocked that their carbon fiber dash applique didn't get them TTOD.

I've swapped them from one head to another, so that whole "they're align bored on the head" line that people believe is BS IMO. More urban legend. Like spork said, just rotate the cam to make sure everything moves freely, and heck, you should ALWAYS do that anyway any time the head comes off. My first cam change was the ultimate supposed no-no. I pulled the cam towers and cam and put the new cam towers and cam on from a different engine. Never had a problem with that headgasket either (the other part of the no-no in that situation). Eventually pulled that engine when the balancer came apart on me and ruined the front of the crank some 40K miles, probably 60 autoxs and 10 track days later...

They're in every auto parts store I've ever been to. Must be one of those "Better not Metric with Texas" things. Try online? If you can't find a whole tube, you can use the SAE line with a 10mm x 1.0mm end, and just bend and flare it yourself.

Sissy.