JMortensen

Not a whole lot of tire choices for 15x12. Good to see you around again.

4 3/8" is stock length.

Here is the link to the new Shelby GT350 Mustang w/single plane crank and 8200 rpm redline. Sounds pretty sweet, too bad they only let you hear it right at the end. https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/listen-to-the-roar-of-ford-s-new-shelby-gt350-flat-plane-crank-v-8-191953660.html

Yes, oil is for rust control. There are some threads around on Krown Rust Treatment, which is popular in Canada. I'm essentially going that route, but DIY. Haven't done it yet because my paint isn't done. Once that's done, I'm going to oil all the rails and inside the rockers, etc.

Should work fine, you lose some spline engagement where the old groove is so maybe a little weaker than Chequered Flag's aftermarket shafts. You don't have 2.5" of plunge on a Z31T CV. I want to say it's like 1.25" or something like that. Taking 5/8" off both sides should fix the issue with the stockers being too long though. You can cut an axle with just about anything and not mess up the temper of the axle. When I worked for Randy's R&P we used to sell full float axles for big ass dually trucks that had 8 or 9 inches of spline and were cut to fit by the customer. If you wanted to be cautious about the axles on any vehicle those would be the ones, but never heard any complaints at all.

I drilled holes down the length of the SFC's then used self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold it all together while welding. I did remove the original rails too. I think my thread is still in the BSWC FAQ area. I reposted the pics once or twice, they should be in there near the end.

One thing that comes to mind reading Alain's post is the quality of Cameron's catch cans. They look homemade, and the oil separation method he described sounds suspect at best, to me. Using a higher quality catch can might offer an improvement. Doesn't mean that he won't still suck a cup of oil into the can(s) but maybe could keep the oil burning plumes to a minimum.

Thinking maybe plugging the factory vents and putting the AN-10 vents right in the middle of the valve cover or maybe even 2/3rds back on the high side might help. Wonder how much of the oil is sloshing under accel and braking.

Guessing you didn't read the whole thread. Heavy85 has. It's a pretty common problem with autocross and road race LS engines. Drag racers don't put lateral loads on the oil and slosh it up into the PCV tubes.

Was thinking of doing the same, the idea being that the stock PCV outlets are too small. Did you weld the AN fittings or just tap for 1/2 NPT?

I've read quite a few negative things about venting the crankcase in the valley cover on LS1tech.com, but no personal experience. tube80z had some pictures of an LS1 which had additional drains in the front and the back of the head, but they were simple tubes fitted and run down to the oil pan. Not sure if that is worth it or not. Still trying to figure out what to do with PCV too. I really like the idea of vacuum to the crankcase and not sending the oily air back into the intake, but I don't know that I am going to make that happen on mine. Maybe if one of you guys does it I'll copy you.

If that was for me, they're Formula Atlantic rear slicks, 13" wide.

How are you going to make the track wider? Longer control arms? Wheel offset? I've got a car almost together with 15x14's, the splitter (not in the picture) is 76" wide. Mine is done mostly with the wheels. The control arms are about .5" longer per side than stock. Side effect of this is one hell of a lot of scrub in the front. I added power steering to help with that issue. Less scrub is better, but then you'd need longer control arms. I wouldn't widen the distance between the frame rails and try to keep the stock control arms. Longer control arms are better if you can do it. EDIT--I expect to go through lots of wheel bearings!

Could be you swapped sides on the stubs and put the long one in on the short side.

Might just look in there and see if it's still there. There was a post on circlip replacement. You can get them and the trick is to push them in with a socket that fits snug so that the clip doesn't twist around.

Get a used diff, or pay through the nose. Those appear to be the only options.

Could just put a jacking point in the rocker on both sides, then you can jack up one side at a time without getting under the car. I did this on my car and it's made life a lot easier. Even when I need to get the car up on jack stands, I can jack one side way up there and then it's really easy to get the other jack to the center of the xmember or onto the diff.

There is nothing in the front end of a Z up to the core support. They just fold right up to that point. It might be possible to replace the lower frame rails, straighten the uppers and put a new hood, fenders, and airdam on. The clean shell idea might also be a better bet than trying to recoup your losses by parting out.

No experience with that head, but you should check out zredbaron's porting thread. Has a funny title like "No holds barred, max hp head porting" or something like that. He used an E31 and had 165 whp or something like that out of a stroker motor. Then he worked the head and redid the bottom end and ended up at 265whp or thereabouts. You can get the gist of what it takes out of that thread.

Try looking in the brakes/wheels/suspension/chassis forum. Some recent threads in there.

Camber thrust is my guess.

If you mount the cable to the arm, you want to do it as far out as possible. If you mounted closer to the pivot, then your adjustments have to be more exact because 1/8" movement 3" from the LCA pivot might be 3/4" at the wheel (not exact, just making the point). Unfortunately at the end of the control arm there is a bunch of crap in the way; strut housing, sway bar, ball joint, etc. Using the sway bar allows you to get farther towards the end while avoiding all the other stuff.

The shocks should slow down the hammering action, and most of the time if you're hitting them it's because of body roll, which doesn't happen THAT fast.

The plate should be plenty strong to handle the couple hundred lbs you're going to put on it with a droop limiter. The angle doesn't really matter unless something else is in the way, because it's just a stop, so it's not like leverage ratio or anything else matters. I like the idea of having a hook that goes over the swaybar end links and then an adjustable stop, maybe that screws in with a jam nut. I tried to figure that out a while ago and decided cables would be easier, but that's another way to do it that should be possible and maybe less messy than cables.

I'll keep the sailing hardware in mind, thanks. I just replaced with cables and ferrules, will see how that holds up. Since I have the turnbuckle for adjustability, this might be all I need. Those ends sure looked nice though.