JMortensen

Good input here. I continue to believe that HLSDs are weak in terms of lockup. There is a tradeoff to a tighter diff, but that's the direction I'd go. Looking at Dan's pics, it really does look like the splitter's effectiveness will be compromised by running much softer rear springs.

I think you can get Chequered Flags stubs double drilled if you ask. IMO the problem here isn't defective heat treat, it's just too small an axle. The same people that made MM's axles make CF's, so there shouldn't be any difference at all in the quality of the parts, and they do make very good parts.

It is a non-starter to me. Even if it worked as planned it would still put a lot more stiction in the suspension, especially when you were on or off the gas. Just a bad idea IMO.

The tube isn't supposed to spin, but if you lift up on those mounts with a couple thousand lbs of force, I bet they would, really tight bushings or no! LOL That whole idea is a non starter for a stock arm since they're supposed to spin. I wouldn't mount the diff that way with the AZC arms either. That diff mount takes A LOT of abuse, and I wouldn't want to pull on the part that locates the control arms that hard. Seems like it's just asking for (big) trouble.

Looks to me like you could use a shorter turnbuckle on the Silvermine setup too, if shorter was the goal.

Saw this picture, so I thought I'd ask you. Matt, do you know where to source this PLYWOOD GRAINED carbon fiber? Was hoping to get some to make the splitter for my car.

That front pivot is a clevis. Should be tightened down and allow no movement. Not the strongest looking clevis out there, but that point shouldn't be acting as a pivot.

Not seeing the problem with the pivots on the fronts. Looks like there is an inner pivot for the LCA, a TC rod pivot, and a ball joint, just like stock. Could you explain?

Lots of people have run them with no problems. gnosez makes a point of pinging me every now and then: "Still haven't broken them." Cobramatt did have a problem. I asked him what happened and didn't get a solid answer. Agree with bjhines that he should have done it differently. If you're doing the suspension from scratch, why ape the stock crap suspension with aluminum? He could have eliminated the spindle pin, lowered the outer pivots, incorporated bigger brake brackets and a stronger upright, centered the wheel in the well, eliminated the H arm and incorporated an A arm and toe link, etc all in one move. The silvermine parts look even worse from a threads in bending perspective, but at least they aren't relying on "really tight bushings" to prevent movement of the pivots. I'd still put a tube across and weld it with their setup, FWIW.

I brought this up when Dave first released it. I think now he suggests using a set screw so that the inner tubes can't rotate. My suggestion to those who use this suspension is to figure out where you want the pivots and then weld a tube across to positively locate the others.

Suffice it to say WAAAAY out of date.

Omix-Ada. The Power Brute hasn't been available for years, well before the purchase.

One thing to note is that larger diameter rotors and larger pistons give more brake torque, so less pedal pressure required compared to the same size master with stock components.

If you do, you should use a tandem master cylinder, not the single master they show. You want the front and rear brake systems on independent hydraulic circuits, just in case. You can also modify the pedal to give you more leverage if you remove the booster. Otherwise it's going to take a lot of pressure on the pedal to slow the car down.

I remember reading an article in a magazine about a turbo build where they cut out the quench areas of a 4V head so that they could reduce compression ratio and crank up the boost more. The impression I came away with was that quench is FAR less important in a turbo motor in terms of ultimate power. I think stony or TimZ or one of the high hp 6 guys had a writeup on a similar build here.

Why don't you try to buy direct from Courtesy Nissan in TX? They do mail order. http://courtesyparts.com/

Is it possible to zip tie the top of the spring to the top hat? That's what you do on coilovers.

^^Agree. There are many different Momo ripoffs on ebay for $50 in the right color.

EDIT-- nevermind. Didn't read.

I never read it in a book but I just put some on an aftermarket rack and I tightened mine until the slack in the joint was gone. If you crank them down the joint will barely move or be completely stuck. Play around with it and you'll see how it works. Starts out loose and the tighter you make it the more slack you take out of the joint.

I have to admit I didn't read the whole thing, but a Mikuni can run rich on 1/2 the carb if the throttle shaft gets twisted. Basically one bore is closed and the other is open a bit. I think you can usually find this because the balance tool will show a difference from one barrel to the other. Friend of mine had this problem and fixed it by putting wrenches on the flats at the end of the shaft and tweaking it. Want to say he had to take the shaft out, but it's been 15+ years, can't remember exactly.

Not true. Since your input torque is multiplied, you can put much more torque on the steering components and the chassis with power steering. You can pull the wheel just as hard as you could before, but the power at the rack is increased. Exacerbated more if and when you make the steering faster. I ended up getting a Woodward hydraulic rack because it did both faster and power assist, and in their tech info they talk about beefing up the chassis where the rack bolts on to handle the extra loads. It shouldn't be too hard to add in a steering quickener box to one of these electric systems, but then I wonder if you'll be pulling the rack apart, wrecking the bushings and joints.

Just because somebody else does it doesn't mean it's a good idea. I am to the point now where actually I hate seeing Z cars with ZG flares because almost every single one has them mounted too low. Read this one all the way through. Austin cut too low, then had to redo it. I cut higher than him and had to redo mine as well. If you want full suspension travel, cut until the wheel well is essentially flat all the way out to the edge. Put your flare on after doing that, and you'll have them done right. Or if you really want to know for sure, cut, remove the spring, bolt the wheel on, and jack the suspension up and make sure there is clearance. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/

Sectioning the struts to fit BZ3099 MR2 inserts requires taking out 1 5/8" in front, and 2" in rear if memory serves. Camber plates will get it another 1" to 1.5" lower. One thing that I think is a problem on the green car is the flares are mounted too low, which means the fenders probably aren't cut high enough. That could cause rubbing issues that aren't really a "too low" issue but more of a "flared wrong" issue. You might take a look at the available travel. Put a zip tie snugly on the shock shaft and push it down as far as possible with the car in the air. Then set the car down and roll it a bit, and jack it back up. If you have travel available but the tire is going to hit the fender, then the problem is the fender. The only other major contributor is the spring rate. Obviously a soft spring will have more sag and so you'd have to crank in the preload to get it off the bumpstops.

It's not the bushings that cause the stator and reluctor to hit each other IME. It's the vacuum advance mechanism. Again, its' been years, but as I recall you have two metal plates that ride on 3 tiny ball bearings which are captured by a plastic plate with 3 holes in it. I've taken a few apart, and they've all been broken. When the balls get out of position, the top plate that holds the stator tilts and the reluctor hits it. JR Demers had a great page about how to check bushings and it dealt with all the tear down and all that. My stator was CHEWED UP, but my bushings were nice and tight. Hey look! It's still there! http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html I'd suggest you disable the vacuum advance permanently via welding or similar. I JB Welded mine before I had a welder and ran it like that for a while with no problems.