JMortensen

FWIW I bought the part from Nissan, doesn't come with the magnet. This was ~10 years ago...

Not legal for racing, but not a bad idea. There is a guy who does Miata cages like this, and several people have run a roll bar and just added a single bar to the top of the windshield frame right in the middle and claim that it stiffens things up quite a bit more than just the roll bar alone.

You won't be able to move the camber very far with those because the slot isn't that big. You might not even be able to get the full adjustment that is there with the stock diameter springs. It would require a custom hat to fit the stock spring and adapt it to the camber plate as well. Basically by the time you got it done it would be more expense and hassle than just going to coilovers.

No.

Max has it. One of the benefits of most camber plates is that they lower the car about 1 or 1.5 inches without losing travel. But you'll need the 2.5 springs and spring hats, and the threaded coilovers. Old perch cut off struts, new perch welded on, etc. Takes some doing, but worth it.

That was it. Apparently I must have clicked where it says "Just items I'm following". Thanks!

I am using chrome, but it does seem to work with Firefox. Deleted cache, same. Any tips?

Says "Sorry, no new content" whether I choose 24 hours, week, month, etc. Is it just me?

It's looking like it's going to get parted out. Need the clutch parts that I'm missing to put the V8 in the XP car, then I can pull this one into the shop and start stripping it down. Got a bunch of people asking for stuff and I'll try to get back to everyone who asked, but keep your eyes open for the parts for sale ad because I might miss a few.

The 70 I'm selling isn't a good car. It's a good chassis, and it needs a pass floor pan (or fairly good size hole patched and dent fixed). It's missing so much stuff that it's best for a person who has a 70 or 71 that is a rustbucket, so that person can transfer over all of the missing parts to my shell. Nobody seems to want the shell though, so next move is to strip it and try to sell the shell with the shortblock (for someone who wants a #'s matching early car). If that doesn't work, I'm going to chop it up and sell the quarters, etc. I hate to do that, but I don't want to keep it.

I don't think that's a problem, Ken. But, they probably don't adjust very far at all.

Cary pointed out that the splitter can be straight across in the front in XP. Had totally forgotten about that. That being the case, I think B makes more sense. I think you're right Cameron that for autox the bigger splitter will have more effect than getting more air out of the engine compartment.

OK, time to make my splitter, and the front end bodywork will largely be built off of the splitter, so it's decision time. Option A is a narrow(er) front end with relatively flat fenders angling out past the front of the tires. This gives less area for the splitter to be in front of a relatively blunt surface, so would make the splitter less effective, but should increase the effectiveness of the bodywork sucking pressure out from under the hood, since I don't have any fender liners. Option B is a wider front end with a sharper corner. This will make the splitter more effective while making the low pressure at the front wheel less pronounced. I'm leaning towards A. Any opinions? Also trying to figure out how close to get the end of the splitter vs the wheel. Thinking since I'll have the suction out the fender, might be better not to make it super close. Opinions there?

Considered a Miata? Handle great, minimal investment to get on the track, the path from here to there is well worn so parts are cheap and available, endless potential if you get tired of the lack of power later (s/c, turbo, v8 swaps, exocet, etc). If you stick it in a wall it's not the end of the world either.

If you hook up jumper cables backwards on a 240 you blow the fusible link between the pos terminal and the starter.

Keith: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=CRACKTEST

I have some 15x14 Diamonds that Cary sold me and they don't clear JSK 12.2" brakes (very similar to the AZC kit), need a 1/2" spacer. With the spacer, no problem. If you go to Bassett, you can ask them for a "deep bell" and they'll make them to fit without a spacer, and they're better wheels too. You might be able to get the deep bell from Diamond too, FWIW.

Don't bother with the site search. I found this old thread by searching "Z31 cv disassembly site:forums.hybridz.org" on google. It was the 3rd listing. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105657-300-zx-turbo-cv-shaft-disassembly-and-reassembly/

Cam makes a HUGE difference with jetting. Just FYI.

FWIW, I talked to ACE today, sending the button back along with the stock flexplate and the aftermarket one. Sounds like they're going to redesign the part. They did say that the bolt holes are the wrong size but that I was the first customer to actually complain about it. I asked that they change the design so that the button fits with the stock flexplate.

I wanted to lose the weight and get faster shifting. A similar setup with no holes in the flexplate weighed in at 13 lbs. For a street car it's not the best, but mine is going to be a trailer queen race car, so there are no downsides to it.

Shear pins eliminate that problem. That's their purpose.

Yeah, that's not a bad idea at all. Thanks Keith. I think I'll take it in and say "What would you do? Add shear pins, or drill new holes?" I do think adding shear pins has less likelihood of getting them wrong, because presumably everything would be centered perfectly on the pilot.

I don't have a lathe, but the spacers would be just a couple thou wall thickness. I would imagine that it would be really hard to cut spacers that thin.

They are ARP flywheel bolts for an LS1. Not seeing shouldered bolts here: https://www.google.com/search?q=ls1+flywheel+bolt&oq=ls1+flywheel+bolt&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i59j69i64.4751j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=ls1+flywheel+bolt&start=0&tbm=shop&tbs=vw:l