JMortensen

You shouldn't have a soft pedal for the first inch. With 15/16" master and 4x4 and 280ZX I had a rock hard pedal. Probably need to lengthen the pushrod. I recall doing that when I installed the ZX 15/16" master.

I did both. I ran 4x4 fronts with early ZX rears and couldn't get enough rear braking out of them, so I ended up running the stock fronts, and then I could dial in the bias with an adjustable prop valve. You would want the larger master for the fronts more than the rears. If you're going back to stock fronts, then the larger master isn't necessary. The other issue is that some drum masters have a little check valve to keep a small amount of residual pressure in the lines. You don't want that on a disk system. Check to see if there is a check valve in the rear circuit on the 7/8 master.

Does anyone have a couple feet of this weatherstrip left over? I don't want to buy 25' rolls as you see in JC Whitney. I just need a couple feet to keep the gutted doors on my race car from rattling.

Google 1960 formula 3 car. Looks pretty close.

Yeah, the DP racing pan is kind of the known standard; you pay and it works. The cast AL pan is friggin heavy too.

Nissan Comp/Design Products Racing makes the best pan. AZC sells a pan but there was recently some question about how far from the bottom the pick up tube is, so I would check that out when you assemble and maybe modify the the pickup with a little wall around the screen so that it can't pick up bubbles from the sides and has to pull from the bottom close to the pan.

Oil in coolant, oil in ground, oil out tailpipe. I don't see any other options. Very sorry to hear that you're once again in this spot.

Wasn't sure where to put this, but I think this is the best single suspension and related thread on the site, so here goes: I found a little gizmo that I think a lot of you might be interested in, especially if you run wide front wheels. It's an adjustable front wheel bearing spacer. What this little thing does is it fixes the distance between the inner and outer wheel bearings. By having the bearing space fixed, the two bearings share the vertical loads more, so it should make the bearings run cooler, less chance of spinning a race in a hub, etc. Also reduces friction a lot and rolling resistance is a lot better. I was looking at getting some of these made, but found that the Legends car spacer fits out of the box like it was made for a Z, as the same set 2 and set 6 bearings and the spacer adjustment is right in there, doesn't hit the taper on the spindle, etc. They also sell REM'd wheel bearings and low friction seals if you're interested. Here is their page on spacers: http://store.drpperformance.com/bearing-spacers/

I've got a couple ideas about getting it on the trailer. I have a tilt trailer, so essentially a 17' ramp. Wish I had a rollback, but this one is still pretty good, plus I don't have a g-nose. Maybe it just won't be an issue. If it is, I have the splitter set up to pivot, so it might just drag on and off the trailer. If both of those ideas don't pan out, then tube80z had a pretty good idea. Basically unhook the droop limiters, jack up the front end, and put a spacer under the spring. Was thinking I might be able to get some sprinkler pipe and cut it so that I can just barely get it onto the strut housing. 2" should be enough. Will have my tie downs protruding front and rear and I'll just hook straight to them rather than trying to put bonnets over a 14" wide tire or trying to get to the control arms on a car that is super low to the ground...

It's been close to 20 years, but I thought I had checked the pickup depth in the AZC pan and found it OK. It's easy to check and pretty easy to fix too, so that's worth doing. You can add a metal shield around the sides of the pickup screen to make sure it sucks from the bottom and avoids air bubbles, and get the depth right that way too (1/4 to 3/8 is recommended IIRC). I would run a thinner oil too. Talked to a machinist a while back and was told that you essentially never see oil issues because of lack of viscosity, but you do see them as a result of having oil that is too thick (drainback to the pan is slower). Now that you lost a bearing flushing the cooler is a no brainer. I'd add an accusump on top of all the rest. Very easy to plumb into your existing setup since you already have the adapter/thermostat/cooler.

Thanks. Got tabs welded the the front frame already. Will need to figure out some areas to put dzuses on the back part of the fender. The splitter is a bit wider than the dam (because there will be flaps in front of the tires), and it measures .5" wider than a C5 Z06. It's very wide compared to stock, but it's not so ridiculously wide that it won't be able to go through a slalom.

More. Pulled the fiberglass off of the buck. I waxed the crap out of it but it didn't come off very easily. Had to basically break apart the drywall and foam to get it off, then had to scrape and wire brush a lot of drywall off of the underside. Pulled it outside and washed it off with soap and water to get rid of the amine blush. Next I think it dzus fasteners, little bit of filler here and there, and a skim coat to get rid of the fiberglass weave pattern. I halfway thought about leaving it as one piece, but it is really difficult to get on and off like this, so I will cut the fenders away from the front. Need to figure out how to attach them on the car now...

I saw this on FB and was a bit confused/alarmed by the wing mount. Is it two tubes on each side with the dimple die shear plates in between? Do you think it's strong enough? Looks suspect. Would also like to see more of the splitter and front end; how you blocked off the rad area, etc. Not my style, but definitely a nice build. Congrats.

Saw those. 46mm pistons, looks like they're pretty Bilstein-like in their construction. Could be an interesting option.

Yep. If it only has weights on the inside, you've got a static balance. Lots of cars will have a vibration with a static balance.

Here is the (hopefully) last layer of Knytex ready to be wetted out. Got some thicker 24oz/yard stuff this time, I think this will do it. Wetted this morning, will have to have a look tomorrow and see what needs fixing, etc. Not sure what comes next. Glazing?

My suggestion is to go bigger on the pilots. There are a lot of people who have had this same basic problem, and many of us tried bigger pump nozzles first. When I went bigger on the pump nozzles it made it worse. Bigger pilots made the stumble a lot better in my case and I was thinking of going down on the venturi size from 37 to 34. You're already smaller with a pretty similar build, so I would think that with any luck you can go bigger on the pilots, maybe even smaller on the pump nozzles and get things under control.

Use shorter struts. In the rear, put a spacer underneath them. If you can't figure it out from there, you should probably have someone do it for you. Or, if you want to avoid sectioning in the rear (where you need the spacer) altogether, just use the 240Z insulator, it will take an inch out.

There's your problem. Take Plata's advice.

There's some about driveshaft angles and measuring them here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43993-differential-laser-alignment-tool/ Can't speak to driveline balance, but I've felt driveline vibration from bad angles, and that changed a lot depending on load, so I think you can rule it out. CV shafts have a range of angularity that they work in, never seen a Z come close to maxing one out. If you figure that they work in FWD cars that turn, you can see that you're unlikely to get there with an IRS that doesn't. I can't remember seeing any weights on a CV shaft that I recall, but it should be able to be balanced if necessary. They spin a lot slower than the driveshaft though. Brake rotors are balanced from the mfr. Stupid question: has it always had this problem? If not, then it's likely the wheels and tires. The fact that you had them re-balanced and it changed the vibration seems to me to indicate that it's the tires, unless it's always done this and you're just now getting to fixing it. Did the new shop use weights on the inside and outside of the wheel? If the do the inside only that is a static balance which is not the same or as good as a dynamic balance. Road force is supposed to be the best, I've never actually seen one, but that's what they say.

I talked to a local DP Miata hotshoe about Avons. Pretty sure he said he was running 20 psi on I think that same size. Can't speak to how long they last or how long it takes to heat cycle them to death. Another local guy, Ron Bauer, won the DP class last year with Hoosiers.

Thanks Keith. Especially after having the blue foam experiment fail so completely, I'm pretty impressed with the result too. A little more mud on the driver's side today, was hoping to lay the glass today. Looks like tomorrow might be the big day.

Suppose it's time to update this. Set this aside for the last few years, back at it now. Pulled all the foam off and chucked it in the garbage. Wasn't working and was making a HUGE mess when I tried to shape it. tube80z suggested fleecing the front end, which is pulling fleece (like sweatshirt material) over a frame and then glassing that. I thought that sounded a hell of a lot easier, so that's what I did. Since the last post I cut the frame rails in front and built a front end frame that bolts to the ends of the stockers and I laid the rad down flat and built a duct to feed air into it. When I tried to fleece around the corners, the fleece wouldn't stay straight, so I used packing tape across the frame and then laid the fleece on top of that. Then I brushed some epoxy right onto the fleece to make it a little bit stiff, and used a couple layers of 8oz E glass over that. The E glass wasn't cutting it. Wasn't very stiff at all, so I went to TAP plastics and got some Knytex. Knytex is 3 layers of fiberglass in one, two 45 degree weaves and a mat layer behind that. It's much heavier and thicker. Laid one layer of Knytex across the front and figured it was going to be strong enough. Then I started in on the flares again. Made a .25" thick wire frame for each side. Just measured each piece again and again, held the piece for one side up against the piece for the other side to make sure I had the shape the same. I can deal with a little assymetry but didn't want it to look really bad. Measured quite a few times, then tacked the steel frame to the front frame and the body. Put packing tape across the frame and then tried drywall mud on top of some packing paper. The mud was too thick and wouldn't dry. Also cracked a lot. Tried some 2 part expanding polyurethane foam, planning to shave it to the right dimension and then figured I'd lay the fiberglass straight onto that. The foam was too tall, I couldn't sand it low enough, so had to pull it all off and wrap the frame underneath instead of on top. Foamed again, had it just about exactly right, then the next day when I went out the foam had shrunk. I think I messed up the mix of the 2 parts and had too much foaming agent and not enough hardener. Went back to the mud. Laid the mud on top of the foam so that it didn't have to be as thick, and got a better result. Got the pass side pretty well done today. Still need to finish up the driver's side, waiting for more mud to dry so I can sand the final shape. Then I will lay one layer of Knytex over the fender to meet up with the airdam part. After that, I'll lay a final layer right over everything. Then I can cut the fenders away from the front to separate later. The idea is that by having it all be one piece the lines will match up better.

If 12mm length is OK, these are a little cheaper. My vague memory says there is 13mm of depth there, but it is a vague memory... http://www.mcmaster.com/#6679k14/=wa6fd4

Yes. Masters can leak out the back, so if you lost a lot of fluid and it didn't end up on the ground, there's a good chance that it leaked straight into the booster. I think the front reservoir goes to the rear brakes, so you could have a leaky wheel cylinder and the fluid is inside the drum too. Probably check the rears first and if there is no leak there, then pull the master and look inside the booster.