RUZN

Oh also if you Test the TPS with a Ohm meter you can see it reads more and more resistance up to about 30% throttle then it hits WOT (switch closed) and if you rock it back and forth to change the first stage resistance you do get a different Throttle Responce....... just so you know.........

Yeah see Im using a VG30 TPS with a Stanza 60MM TB but I flipping mine upsidedown so the linkage is on the drivers side and the TPS is facing the Pass Side of the TB. This way I did not need a Spacer, But I also used the Stock Linkage from the firewall and just looped a Cable around it and used Cable ties to secure the Loop then ran just enough length to the TB to which I took the VG30 Cable (grabber thingy umm the thing the cable loops around) and mounted it as normal.. SO I have about a 2.5' cable straight from firewall stock linkage to TB and Added an Extra Spring so it returns immidiately.. hehe... Only issue I have now is suddenly I developed a Rich burning deal... Was perfect for weeks so I suspect.. a Temp Sensor.. Old stock injectors or something wacky going on

I agree with Both sides But there dose seem to be some attitude here. If you want to help, do it without BIAS.. Maybe someone isnt good with a CPU but good with a wrench. Maybe they are having an off day and thoughts are elsewhere.. At anyrate I have not encounted to many snide remarks or Implications but to have a fight/argument ect ect on here is pointless. We are all here for the same thing right.. The Z's so keep it chill, and if you got something to say or a comment to make be sure to think it through and be polite right... Just post the Link nothing more. Cause if your gonna say something rude or imply something say it in your head.. like "Damn that guys a friggin idiot to not be able to find this information" hehehe anyway..... I DID THE SWAP WITH GOOD SUCCESS. A FEW BUGS NOW.. NOT SURE AS TO WHAT... Overall I gained Mucho Power so I endorse it. Only flaw I have seen or experienced is.. Currently I my Car has started to burn rich or have weird dead spots in throttle only in mid range. Also sometimes if I'm at a stop light I got to drive and it starts to bog out like its just pouring in the gas... But for the first 3 weeks everything was Dandy.. SO I suspect some other part or sensor to be at fault but im currently running tests (Resistance tests, Voltage tests) to see what up.. I do have stock injectors sooooooooo they could be wearing out. Same with Coil.... soooooooooo who knows at this point but thats my next THREAD!!! hehe Ask me if you want Diagrams and stuff I got it all!

Even easier than Ohm meter which is also easy. Buy some coloured wire coils and rewire it all.. Its old wire it would be your best bet anyway and would only take a Saturday to do from Fuse box to lights =-) I about to do the same.. I know my rear lights would go out sometimes and it took pulling the fuse and popping it back it to make them work also dash lights.. seems the Fuse holderes get weak over time or bend with heat =-)

Yeah its a mini potentiometer (rheostat) type deal just a bunch or contacts that the sliders cruises across and gives a resistance reading... My question: I have been off and on running super rich then not mostly from stoplight to getting going.. is this a TPS deadspot? or should I look at my MAF? I did the 300zxt ECU swap so I have MAF now but its so weird. Started happening couple days back made all sorts of adjustements to try and compensate.. seems liek sometimes its there sometimes its not.. but when it is I can ust go through gas liek no tomorrow and blow some good mini clouds of black smoke. Ive tried testing everything soooooooo anyone else have this problem... might just do a Wrecker run find another MAF and tps see it it clears the condition.

I was hoping i could just get the easy answer lol I guess mine is actua;ly in pin:24 blackpin:34 power vcm for heater filamentpin:115 not sure what 115 is though... just wondering if anyone knew exact pins to go into ty though

Been messing around all night.. LOL got her to rev in nuetral good now. Seem to be running a tad rich but not neearrly as bad as before... Messed with ignition timing again.. got the ECU to just flash green when at 2000rpm which is what ALLDATA says is normal. Seem to get source voltage 14.35v from Heater element (which is spec when running) and the black middle wire reads .52v when ideling and goes up to about .87 when throtteling so that checks out. the Other heater element Wire from O2 seems to read .9v so from what I can find reading that is normal to but if you WOT it just around... As I have asked if anyone could lend a Note or two that would be awesome.. Just need to know exactly what pins the 3 wires from the O2 sensor go to thnx again all who have helped with my Swap....

OK I did a ECU swap into my 280zxt Now I switched to the 3pin O2sensor. Black goes to Pin 24 One other wire goes to PIN 34 or Power from VCM now where does the other wire go? Pin 16? Whenyou test O2 sensor it says to remove Pin 16 thus im thinking it goes there cause you test ground from Pin 24 SOOOOO I had it liek this Ground (Pin 24 liek the 280zxt) Heater element #1 to Pin 34 (power from VCM) Heater element #2 to Pin 15 (cause I read the Diagram wrong. *I get all screwey Volt readings from pin 15 so im guessing thats wrong and when I further look at it it looks to actually be on PIN 16 Can anyone verify if the #2 heater element Pin is just to body ground (or ecu ground) or Pin 16 (which looks to be a ECU ground)

ok so I plugged in my air regulator and adjusting ignition timing got her running but havent test drove gonna see what happens

OK did 300zxt Swap Added O2 sensor Added FPR Added MAF For a couple weeks everything ran perfect. I added FPR (adjustable) because I wanted a newer unit. Adjusted to 36psi and drove fine. After a couple days it would stumble a bit but if you WOT it it would clean up and run fine again. Now weeks later I turn it on again go driving and its puffin black smoke and bogging down unless you WOT and it hits about 4000rpm then you get huge power and everythings good till you 50% throttle it and it starts to bog. So replaced plugs on side of road. Old plugs completely black foueld with soot. Drove another 100km(distance) all highway to friends.. next day started car and it was puffin the black again. So I tried adjusting fuel down to about 35psi. Soon as turbo kicked in it would sputter and unless you WOT it it would puff black smoke. So I messed with ignition timing and it ran better but still after a bit it would sputter. SO I thought it was the New FPR not reading right. I then reinstalled the Stock fpr and its even worse!! barely driveable. I have diconnected the 2 other wires from the O2 sensor and just ran the black one got home with that but whats up? TPS? MAF? it has to be to much fuel but why? ok as I siad retired with stock FPR still the same... is it the maf? with engine running just the Green light on ECU is on so Im guessing thats normal should I run it in test mode and try to count code lights? im stumped.. not sure why it would be perfect tons of power for weeks then all of a sudden be running super super rich enough to completely foul plugs in a couple minutes

If your blowing fuses to. Make sure the wire Diameter is large enough for the Load put on it. If its to small it will get hotter than normal causing more resistance. could just rewire the ground on fuel pump fairly easy I grounded mine to the rear of this inside of the car near the tail lights just ran a new wire through the floor hole thats there and up to the lights. as for power you could do the ame larger wire if you wanted. maybe back of fuse panel theres a junction happening allowing more Amps to get to that circuit like 20amps instead of 10amps or whatever spec is..

yes I did the same thing when doing my 300zxt ECU swap lol and replacing all the connectors with newer non-brittle 300zxt pigtails lol.. But I did White green #1 then the 2 (black greens as 2-3) then the Yellow/greens I just put at 4-5-6 runs fine =-)

I have not used MS but I did do the Z31 ECU upgrade (yes I would say its an Upgrade). For my experience has been more positive than negative so far. I mean I did notice a sizeable difference right away on the first test drive. Everythign was smoother, RPM's lasted longer Power felt better. I did tweak my manifold and TB I did add a newer fuel pump and FPR, I did make my own Manual boost controller that I add about 2-3psi more boost at times, and I did increase Exhaust size to 3" all the way and used a 300zxt Turbo with Water cooling and the MAF instead of AFM. So with a couple $100 bucks I think it was about $400 total for tools supplies, wrecker parts ect ect My Car impressed a good 40cars one night on Sunday All imports mostly Nissans. It looks rough because im running crappy front fenders at this time but they never expected the power I had. I easily kept up with SR20t's 300zxtt's Skylins RB20's and 25's. I didnt kill em all but I was right there with em and thats running a crappy Auto (till I get this damn 5speed in friggin SNOW!!!!) so I agree depends on future plans. But I mean for what I have now its hauls pretty good. Pretty much feels like a whole new car other than handelling (future lol) but engine wise with some basic stuff it really is alot more fun and enjoyable to drive.

yeah I went to Nippon and found some clutches well tons all stages some cheap some not but all hold between 280-400hp for about $300 or less. Damn good prices. So im keeping it simple for now and just using my 225mm flywheel from my N/A 280zx with Clutch for now in my Turbo Automatic till i can afford the Fidanza/Exedey or other choice clutches.

Just got my balljoints.. My drivers side was totally SHot, No rubber boot really just a bunch of muddy grease that looked like a boot LOL.. $51 per side. Got both for obvious reasons. Plus my other 280zx parts car had almost new links so switching those and the front suspension from the parts car is better Might put in the Manual Rack to since its just a Huge Manual gear that lasts forever!!! hehe should fix my issues Also gonna grease up those Wheelie!! bearings with Lucas Grease yay!!.. so should be smoooth as a babies bum

I have one cause I just swapped in a 300zxt ECU How much you paying>?

I have the entire Tranny and Engine some parts off already But I think I still have cover ill have to go to my friends shed and look lol

AH I have my parts Car 81 zx with that older style you have that I would sell ya hehe Good condition to. Welp anyone else need 81 280zx Parts? including engine. just not 5-speed tranny as I need it lol But everything else that came with a 81 280zx is for sale

wow I must be tired my english was that of a 4 year old LOL can anyone even make sense of what I was saying LOL Sum'd: 3 to 9 oclock feels like a couple mill. of play. 12-6oclock no movement. My head mechanic said over phone that cause these are hand tight bearings that get tighter as they heat up they shouldnt be extremely tight or they break and its normal to have some movement. But I get steering wheel shudder as I drive at about 80-100kmh. I did change front tires so It might be crappy tires but, I still have to do some more investigating. Anyone else have this type of situation or syptoms. ok sounds liek I have some intelligence now YAY!!

You know let me ask you. When you hit 80kmh to 100kmh to you get Steering wheel shudder slightly but you drive straight? Im getting the same crap but it sounds like my wheel nuts are loose but they arent. Cand it seems liek outter tie rods or rack. but liek you I havent raised it yet.. Im almost thinking its wheel bearings as they are those hand tight type and I'm thinking the previous owner didnt tighten enough maybe? so axels has play.... lol Ill check mine again tomorrow but I get that same movement only 3-9 Cause at first I thought it was my Lower Balljoints. Let me know what you find out.. infact maybe ill check mine tonight lol bored.....

huh...... hmmm....Well first off: remove crap in way and visually see what your feeling. Get a good light on it, maybe its just a hole in the header itself. Block blowing a hole (Iron block) doubtful on a Stock Car. Easy thing is to look for black soot around header pipe to gasket or yet again remove it all and look at gasjet see if it was leaking past.I'm guessing cause I cant see or hear it but I would say its just a bad seal. Can happen. I tightened mine on the other week after a few upgrades and somehow they got loose just by running it for a day so tightened them again and no more leak sound. I would do the cheap thing first and check it with a light see if you see visual signs. But im betting its just a bad seal from gasket to header. Or Holes in header.. maybe cracked header flange.

In need of both Drivers and Pass. Front Fenders PRETTY PLEASE!!!!! hehe TY

I also have 6 injectors let me know

I had the same issue on mine. It was the Neg Bat cable had some corrosion on contacts. Sometimes would be loose to. take off get Bat cleaner and clean em works great after.. "Yours would say go to turn key and you'd hear a Click and no power right. then wait couple mins and it starts or just dose the same thing. Or remove cable and put back it it starts couple times then same issue again later right" Was my native. Just clean or buy new cable.. easy to do

Wider =-) do 225/50/15 they are nice on mine. Great Traction tiny bit lower stance.