randy 77zt

looks like a package motor for some type of scca racing class.a rebuilt vg30 sohc.wouldnt be bad in a early z-light weight& high revs.

both chevy & ford-4" bore.stroke on 350 chevy or 351 ford =3.5".the reason chevy always made a little more power stock was in the cylinder heads.the game was evened out by aftermarkit 5.0 heads with chevy valves.bottem line-run what you have parts for.i have lots of turbo l28 stuff but if i got enough money for it i would swap to ford 302 because i work at a ford dealer.

when i take my car to thunderhill or other road race track i run union 110 nascar gas.i run about 13 lbs boost.this is cheap engine insurence.its $4 a gallon.the distributor is in my town and can is filled from 20000 gallon storage tank.i usually run 10 gallons on top of a little street gas.no pinging all day.last time at track it was 110 degrees.some day when i get a real turbo engine built i can run the 110 on 20 psi boost.i trash canned the pov valve for a pipe plug from orchard supply.most of the time i run chevron 91 but its 1.80 a gallon.

job burnout.the job i have has no chance for advancement.unless you are locking in a retirement with the company you are working for it is probably time for a change.you are stuck in a corner so you can stay busy and not bother any one.those workers ganged up on you because you made them actually do some work.i saw a post of yours awhile back about your z for sale.i can relate to that.if i sold all my toys and rented my house out i could hide in baja for awhile to think of something better to do.happy hour starts a 1 pm there.good luck.do not move to ca-its getting very expensive here.

i had a t4/t3 turbo built and the stock turbine housing was machined for a stage 5 turbine and the stock waste gate hole opened up.with a extrude honed exhaust mainfold i wonder what my back pressure will be.stock turbo seems to choke the engine at high revs.

here in usa if some body could find a blower off of a ford tbird sc out at pick& pull they would have a cheap blower.

to mr mudge-the bay area will be enhanced testing soon like la and central valley.but hc are lower under load.if you egr is inop then your nox will be high.if a z is tuned correctly even with aftermarkit efi (sds,haltech.etc) it should pas a tail pipe test.some states let cars go if the pass the tail pipe test.but good old california makes you have to use all oem parts.

do your best estimate and mutiply by 2.my turbo conversion cost about $1500.but i got a parts 81zxt with a good engine for $200.

some day when i get some money i want a 20bt in my z.the sand rail guys in socal run lots of mazda rotorys.i found a company that makes a bell housing for borg t5 to mazda.i have heard a 20b nonturbo run at thunder hill.it sound like a f1 car-or like a needle tickling your ear drum.i ahve a sand rail magazine with a turbo 20b running 560 hp on only 12 psi boost.

my set up for my 77z with zxt engine-12" coil overs 225lb front 250 rear.front sway bar is 15/16".rear is 7/8.tokico illumina struts stock length.front control arm pivot points have been moved up 1" and out 3/4".camber -3degrees front,-1.5 rear.car could use stiffer springs on track but it is a work car .i change to track alignment at work.i work on cars for a living and where i work we use the equipment for our own cars.for tire on track i run kumho but just because they are cheaper and wear good.

3 wire o2-grey = signal,2 whites = heater coil.on 4 wire its the same except black wire = ground.the reason for the heater is to get o2 woking faster on warmup.most smog produced by late model cars is during cold start before cats are hot enough to work.voltage on signal out is the same.

i am a california licensed smog tech.i live in modesto-not too far.if you need help email me.my 77 has a certified 81 zxt swap and i did a 84 el camino/87 tpi motor for my chiropractor.if you are doing a 280you can tap the ftp into the oem tank evap system and put purge flow valve and carbon canister on oem tank vent line.as for cats the ref was wrong-cats are to be positioned where original cat was because of heat shielding.a big random technologies cat will work in oem datsun position.you just need to install all o2 sensors including cat monitors.best to get gm shop manual for the motor/car the motor was from.it will explain all of the wiring.most of the gm used a pulse generator on trans output shaft.the whee sped sensors were used for traction control.problem with obd 2 is deleted sensors=trouble codes=no pass =no cert.i am workin on a 66nova/94 lt1 install now.

dont use it -the rings wont seat.wait about 3000 miles.i have never used synth oil in my engines-just normal valveoline .

didnt some hybrid z member design a turbo cam?i dont remember the thread but i kind of remember a gripe about jwt copying it and claiming it was thiers.cam depends on driving style or uses of car.but a little more cam could help prevent detonation by reducing cylinder pressure at low to mid rpm.i have a magazine with an article about a 1200 hp twin turbo 350 chevy in a corvette .supposed to be a daily driver.engine was set up with a cam shaft made to let engine rev to 7000 and turbos sized to not make boost to early-lots of exhaust flow at high rpms.this was done to keep cylinder temps lower .but you might end up with an engine thats flat till 4000 rpm.

i spotted a new 350z while on vacation in cancun mexico last week.nissan is bigger than toytoa & honda down there.renault& nissan dealer are together.they also have peugeot and seat(spanish vw) too.only thing more common than nissan is vw.if you want a golf 1.8t you have to get an audi a3.i would like a 6 speed 350z with the track option(brembo brakes and better suspension).

the american car builders do there technical experiments on the luxury cars because they know they get traded in sooner.i work on fords at a ford dealer for a living.the problem with american cars is parts made to a certain price specification to make more profit on the car.about 90% of parts on car are built by subcontractors.guess what-the cheapest subcontractor gets to make the parts.like the sorry front brakes on a focus made in brazil.the foriegn content(like ford pick up frames hecho en mexico)makes me not give a **** about buying american.i buy the best product for what i am going to use it for.i just had a nissan tsuru(early 90s sentra) rented in cancun mexico for a week.ran the dog doo out of it (ebrake turns and donuts on a deserted beach) and it begged for more.

i went to pick up a toyota engine at one of those used japan spec engine places and spotted one of those dohc vg30 single turbo with auto trans on it.i heard it was in a car called a cima .

if you have coil overs set the car up so shafts will be straight under load.my car is lowered and half shafts run up to the wheels.

nothing bolts right up.its up to you to make it work.sss510 has a t56 in his l28 turbo 510.he did use a zxt t5 bellhousing as a starting point but thats were the fun began. had a z31 t5 but sold it.it had a very long bellhousing and input shaft.many cars used t5 but they were all made to spec.the strongest t5 is the new unit sold in summit.the tremec is stronger but rumer has that it doesnt shift as good.

i have tried to bolt a 280zxt t5 belhousing to a mustang t5.front bearing carrier is bigger in diameter and doesnt fit into bell housing.not by much-you could machine the od of the bearing carrier down to fit.then use a mustang clutch disc under a 240 mm pressure plate.this is something i have thought of but havent tried yet.the 280zxt t5 has bad ratios for road race tracks.i prefer the 82-83 zx na.the new world class t5 that summit sells new has close ratios and would work nice .they are much stronger than oem nissan t5.i think the oem nissan t5 is overrated.but the drag and auto x guys like a lower 1st gear ratio.i use my car on road race tracks so i need close ratios plus a better 5th.the summit t5 would work with a 4.10 rear because of .63 5th.first is 2.95.stock mustang t5 has a 3.35 1st.my car has a stock 81 zxt engine with some tuning mods and na trans works good.but i dont drag race.bets way to break parts is drag race starts.other nissan trans problem is leaking at speedo drive.then the counter shaft bearings burn up.

how long are diesel rods compared to 240 rods?would piston end up being too short?i am pulling a diesel tommorow.could buy short block-i dont want too pull crank at pick&pull.

i have a 77 with 81zxt .the wiring took more time than bolting in engine.go with sds.you have the possability of wasting much time tring to troubleshoot old nissan parts.plus investing a small amount in something that will need to come out soon if you upgrade.i have to smog mine since i live in ca.just put the sds in with new mercedes injectors.do not use old injectors.the money you spend on flow testing and cleaning is best spent on new injectors.if you run old injectors and you a 1 %30 clogged you will sieze a piston.if you can get on a chassis dyno you can tune the sds to run cleaner at cruise speeds and make more power.i am not a tree hugger but unburnt fuel out the back= wasted money.

goto a bearing supply house and get a few catalogs.then measure your parts and read.you might get lucky

i picked it all up-it was about 20 parts.i even got those chrome trim/rubber parts on top of door edge.having new parts will speed up prep time because old parts will be cut out and thrown away.i guess i am picky but i always look for tape marks on a repaint job.

if i am going to paint my car i want it restored to as built condition.since i am a ford dealer tech i know that nothing fits better than oem parts.the nissan parts manager in the auto mall where i work cuts me a deal anyway.i am trying to get a vin# from a 1996 mystic green mustang cobra so i can order some paint from ppg.they wont sell it except for repair of a mystic cobra.