randy 77zt

you are talking about pilot in center of hub?i have 84 300 zx rotor on back and pilot doesnt stick out past rotor.havent had any problems and car has been on tracks many times.

roamer-chevy offers new lsi motor in crate with off road computor & harness -i heard around $6000.nothing from lsi fits older engines -ls1 is all new.i am working on a 66nova ss/94 lt1 swap in garage for a customer right now.engine has aluminum heads but not a lot of sbc parts fit because of d shaped exhaust ports,reverse flow cooling and more.chevy has a fuel injected 350 crate motor that is plug&play for about $4500.when i was at thunderhill i saw a late model rx7 with a 3 rotor 20b motor.a perfect road race motor.9000 rpms easy and 300 hp with no turbo.with good turbo and efi system 500 hp easy.

i am a ford tech for a living.it is even more fun when you explain to dweebs with new car that the vortech superchager they bolted on voided the warrenty on the car and that a new engine costs $8000.

for running on open road you need to have some give to suspension so tires wont bounce on bumps.a guy with a v8 z i talked to said his z came up heavier in rear when done.setting up alignment for a open road car would not be to hard.not to much negative camber.some caster and some toe in.drive line balence and alignment would be very critical because most of these cars dont run od to keep drive shaft speeds down.good luck with car.mr kelly -are you running in neveda?send email and i will take my z out to watch.

if it is a 3.8 with ac it will work.fan was run on 2 speeds through a resistor but you wont be using that.i have a couple of fan setups from 97 mustang gt that i kept after performing tsb at work .sorry not for sale though.

gm is coming out with a suv with a straight 6.supposed to be s10 blazer size.engine has been in baja racing for a year.as far a z motors go it doesnt matter what is in the car as long a the owner did a clean job and car is fully functional.i appreciate the creativity of the owner.i have been thinking about a diesel z for commuting.if i could afford it i would put a 20bt 3 rotor mazda turbo in my z.

from what i have read a 5/16 or 8 mm fuel line is good for 400 hp at 40 psi.but i think if i build up a bigger turbo motor i will goto 3/8 on pressure side.

i run 250 in rear and 225 in front.car is good on smooth freeway but has to have tokico set on 3 minimum to control rebound.only use gc camber plates cause they have the least amount of rattle.i am taking the carrera camber plates out of rear of my car cause the noise is driving me nuts.gc send a big washer to use the oem uper cushon if you want and i am going to try this in rear with adjustable lower control arms.if you use oem upper cushion use a 70-73 z part cause it is shorter than 75-78 part.

the v6 wouldnt be bad but it needs a bigger radiator than the one it came with.v6 is kind if rough running cause it has no balence shaft.blows head gaskits if it gets hot cause it has aluminum heads.i know cause i work as a tech at a ford dealer.my boss tried to run a sc tbird in a drivers school at sears point and it overheated after 3/4 of a lap.best 4cyl is 87-88 turbo coupe unit and that would be ok in early z and be very easy to work on .good luck on your swap.i have been on the lookout at pick&pull for a tbird sc supercharger though-should work good on a l28t engine instead of turbo.

mr coffey is right about using comparimg a sledge hammer to camber plates & coil overs.the gc camber plates have torrington bearings and are very good but have slight rattle.i put some carrera plates in rear because i found them local .those rattle real bad and its even worse cause its right behind your head.camber plates require major surgery to top of strut tower-like a sawzall to start with.they do lower car about 1 to 1.5 inches cause you ditch the rubber isolater.i built a 72 z its car for a friend and we used mr2 cartridges.gc shortened strut tubes and every thing fit but they supplied all parts.i run the gc 12 inch long spring kit with stock length struts on my 77.it is plenty low-rear axles go upwards to wheels and i still have about 2.5 inches travel.i dont lower it for the track-it handles better with a little lean.if i was going to build a street car again i would not use coil overs.i would also like to let mr coffey test drive my car some time at a race track for some input on set up.seting up a car thats fast on track takes lots of time.

you are going to have to grind off old spring seats and weld retainer rings on strut housings.the ground control in structions are good on the measurments because i have them on my car.if you use a good 7" electric grinder it gets the spring seats off and a muffler shop can weld the rings on with a mig.the best strut cartridges for this app are 5 way tokico.call r&d enterprises alias shoks.com.they are in san diego so you should save some freight.the reason you need the 5 way shocks iis that the stiff springs rebound quick and if rebound is not controlled car will bounce .i run 225 lbs in front and 250 in rear but car is used for road courses in driver schools.

has anybody tried a world class t5 on a zxt bellhousing?the mustang racers have good luck with these and you can get new units from summit.you would have to use a dikfferent clutch disc cause spline count is different.

some of us have more money than others and some of us have to scrounge and roll on the ground at pick&pull.and do or own research & development.i think if i find a compressor section off of a buick grand national used and get a sds system i will take my chances and see how it runs.but i am going to put intake air temp sensors before and after intercooler to check if it is working well.intercooler looks way larger than starion unit. [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited December 20, 2000).]

make sure you run engine at 2500 rpm for 1/2 hour to break in cam.if engine wont start quickly find out why.cam is lubed from splash offof crank.if you turn the engine over with starter a bunch of times you end up with a flat cam.i did this on a ski boat engine with open headers on a sunday morning.nothing like the sound of a healthy 454 on a sunday morning -it wakes up the neighbors.

your probably talking $600 to $1000 per strut.the shop that makes these shocks for penske is not to far from my house .they do atv shocks as a sideline .shop is called custom axis in lodi ca.not many people working-just alot of cnc machines running on a computor.

the engine i really want in my z is a 3 rotor mazda 20b turbo.saw a non turbo 20 b in a late model rx7 at thunderhill-300 hp with out turbo.i have a sand buggy magazine with one in a sand rail = turbo -560 hp at wheels on dyno.there are a few in us but not cheap-$3500.

actually i sat it on top of the core support right side up and on checked it out-hose ends on bottem.when i mount it in car it will be running upside down.i have not mounted it yet .it wont be for awhile until i get aftermarkit efi system.unit has plastic tanks but it should be ok for 16psi cause plastic tank radiators are rated for that.cant put it in now cause afm runs through hole on left side of core support.

those gm sealer pills were used on the cadillac 4.1 aluminun engines-they worked bu the real problem is that it shouldnt need this kind of help.i use the motorcycle case sealer on nissan trans-it good stuff.

flowmaster makes a muffler makes a muffler with 2 2.5 pipes in and 2 2.5 out.maybe if you mount this uder driveshaft and use the traps on ends.or mount 2 glasspacks side by side under drive shaft with a x pipe in front of mufflers.this should make nice mellow rumble.i have a 3" mandrel bent exhaust on my 77 turbo -muffler is under cat heat shield.

was out at pick&pull today.found a 86 saab 9000 turbo.it had a intercooler and some nice tubing and a blow-off valve so i decided to take a chance and buy it and bring it home .when i got home i set it on top of radiator to see if hose spigots on the end tanks would match up to the big holes on either side of the radiator core support.i got lucky-they look close to centered.hose spigots are 2.5 in od.core measures 14x22 inches.should be alot better than starion ic but probably not as good as a custom unit.know i need sds system so i can get nissan afm out of way.i am going to run this with factory a/c.

this months issue of hot rod magazine has a 383 build that they did for $2000.what kind of race truck do you have ?some times i go to mexico to watch off road racing.

if you change seats it might run lower .i run a race seat at trackand my helmet just rubs on headliner.i made aluminum plates to adapt seat to oem seat tracks.these are the things that z car is good for-finding fabrication talent in owners.

better blocks are 85 up for roller cam.best injection is 88 up mass air.there is a bigger maf and 30lb injector kit in ford motorsport catalog that i have heard works good on everything as far as cams and heads go .the newer blocks have one piece rearmains too.the oem t5 is usuable but needs world class t5 kit.the oem t5 has a low 1st to spin a 3.08 rear.oem t5 1st is 3.35 wc t5 is 2.95 with a .63 5th.if you spend the money to convert oem t5 to wc t5 you can almost buy new t5 from summit.do not machine flywheel too thin or springs on clutch disc will hit flywheel bolts.i wrench at a ford dealer so i have learned about these things.i think if you put aluminum heads on 5.0 and put battery in back it would be balenced better than a l28 motor.

the long rod on the boat engine is for high rpm use.a boat has only 1 gear.if you want more speed it has to be from more rpms.the only thing that gets run harder than a boat engine is a winston cup engine.i have asembled engines for offshore racing boats.if something is not quite right they blow up because most of the time the engines are turning 5000 to 7000 rpm.

haltech isnt a common set up on a zcar.members on this site are trying to get info on different systems and peoples opinions on ease of use /tune-ability.please post your impressions of this system and your problems so the members could learn from your info or make suggestions to help you out.