A to Z

09-09-2023 UPDATE. Replaced my fuel tank sending unit with an NOS one, as well as a new O ring and lock washer I got from the Z car depot. No way to do this without getting gas everywhere. I had to mop up and put the towels in the sun to dry out, get the gas on the floor evaporated, and go in and wash up and change my T shirt. The gas even left a nice mark on the blacktop outside my garage bay! Anyway, I also went ahead and finished the fuel hose routing for the new fuel rail. Started it up, and went and fill it up to check the gause......Fuel gague works correctly! So that's good. I got some hose and ran the carburetor breather hoses to the air cleaner, and then I also went ahead and finished polishing the hood. It glistens now like the rest. I opened up and inspected my new fuse box from MSA "The Z Store". Looks like a nice piece. Soon, I will install and then see what wires I need to re-run and eliminate the problematic ones. I went ahead and bought some new tailughts, the Euro model ones with the orange lense in the bottom, and new front ones in clear with amber bulbs. I think I will have my tailight surround wrapped in carbon fiber. PICS:

thanks. Its been a long journey. Tired.

A few changes. I got rid of the mechanical fuel pump, and got a real nice black Z monogrammed cover plate, and went with a CARTER electric fuel pump mounted in the rear. The Mallory distributor was being very problematic ( 2 Mallory dizzys both blew the modules, so no more Mallory) so I switched to a eBay breakerless ignition, and I have gotten it running, and I installed an AEM UEGO A/F gauge to help with getting the tune better, but she definitely like fuel more than she did when she was stock! I then decided to go ahead and jump on the fuel rail project. I cut the hard lines next to the firewall and started putting the rail together. I put off the piece from the old rail, the return line, that is necked down to a very small orifice to keep the fuel pressure correct....well I cut that off, cleaned it up, and added it to the return line I have for the rail. Rail is made by Pallnet, available through Godzilla Raceworks, this one is made for SU's. My rail is set up so that the feed and return lines will be at the back of the engine to give everything a real clean look. A piece of the old rail on the front of the head is still in place holding the sprak plug wires until I figure out a good way to tackle that job. She runs great, but won't ahve any real powre figures for awhile, as I need to get the fuel spot on. Currently at 8 degrees advance with vacuum advance plugged off. Too much compression for it.

09-03-2023 UPDATE. I installed the remaining pieces of my windshield trim and have some duct tape holding them tight overnight while the pure silicone caulk dries up. Then I used gorilla glue, water and clamps to glue on the parts of both doors weatherstripping that has always ben a problem. Problem solved. I then started on the building of a plate with 2 switches I have...one will be to turn the Wideband on and off...the other will be there if I need it down the road. I painted it, and everything was well, then the paint got screwed up, so I will have to unfortunately redo that small piece....then find a good place under the dash ( to the left of the steering column preferrably). I then decided to go ahead and jump on the fuel rail project. I cut the hard lines next to the firewall and started putting the rail together. I put off the piece from the old rail, the return line, that is necked down to a very small orifice to keep the fuel pressure correct....well I cut that off, cleaned it up, and added it to the return line I have for the rail. My rail is set up so that the feed and return lines will be at the back of the engine to give everything a real clean look. A piece of the old rail on the front of the head is still in place holding the sprak plug wires until I figure out a good way to tackle that job. I ordered an NOS fuel tank sensor and arm setup, along with a new spin on retaining ring and a new O ring. That should cure the leak AND give me a fuel gauge that reads correctly. The setup I have is way off. Progress continues. Pics below. Cheers!

09-02-2023 UPDATE: I installed the AEM "UEGO" wideband air to fuel ratio (A/F) gauge to start off. I had to do some light sanding to get it into the pod I bought on eBay.......works good. I then got the car started and drove it to the gas station.....carbs were out of sync, but otherwise great! I topped it off with 91 and it started leaking out of the fuel sensor hole. So I drove it home, jacked it up and got a bucket under the leak. It's always something huh? :) I went ahead and synched the carbs again and used the UEGO to get the mixture ok at idle.....10-11.0 to 1 at 800-900 rpm, good enough for now. I then put the air clener and everything back on, and started on the remaining windshield trim. Got dark and called it a day. PICS and a link to video's below. Videos: Click "Facebook" link below Facebook (1) Facebook (1) Facebook

UPDATE: All video. this site doesn't like to load them....below is a link: (1) Facebook (1) Facebook (1) Facebook

08-26-2023 UPDATE. Carbs and stuff. I started with taking the carb tops off and the float tops off and the banjo fuel pipe and cleaning out all the filters and blew the jet out, and then reassembled. Still, no start. Checked my fuel gauge, still beween 1/4 and 1/2 tank....hmmm.... Went back and started palying with the fuel pump and filter.....is the filter clogged? I went ahead and took it apart, then ran to the parts store and got a new fuel filter, this time a clear one from WIX, and a couple hose clamps. I must have assembled it every way possible, to include crossing the wires to get the pump to run backwards, nothing. Then I thought.....MAYBE my fuel gauge is lying to me?......I went down and got a gallon of 91 octane and poured it in....turned on the pump it started filling up, and the car started! It sure didn't want to...... must have been clearing out excess fuel in the cylinders or smoething, got a pop and a bang and flames out the throat of one SU ....then started idling! Running REALLY well on one SU, the front one and the back appeared to not be doing anything....yet it was firing on all cylinders....weird. At any rate, it runs AND my fuel gauge is not to be trusted. So after that, I took a break from that, and jumped on the windshield wiper project. The spare set of linkage I bought came in, and I took the cordless drill with wire wheel attachment and got the rust off. Then I sprayed it down with engine degreaser, and wiped it down with a rag. Grabbed my Lucas White Lithium grease and greased the joints up and re-insinstalled. So, now it is all hooked up, and now have to get power back to it. Hoping it is just a blown fuse, we shall see! Becasue I have a cowl panel with no vents, the areas will receive no water, the wipers are there for emergencies sake and possible future issues with the car being deemed "legal"...not sure, but the thought came to mind, so I decided to be prudent. My back carb has a bad leak at the bango fitting, the old crush washers don't want to do their part anymore.....I wonder if that could be the cause for a weak performacne from that rear carb? Time for some new crush washers and then hopefully synch the carbs, set the timing and voila! I DID notice that my colder plugs eliminated the pinging! 2 steps colder on the plugs with the gap closed to .031 seems to have done the trick! The puzzle continues! Pics:

08-20-2023 UPDATE. Busy day! I went ahead and started on the engine for a bit....verified I have spark to the dizzy....no spark to the plug....So I swapped out the dizzy and tried again....NOW I have spark to the dizzy. I went ahead and pulled the plugs again to verify gap at .031 got it all together....still wouldn't start. I sprayed some starting fluid in the carbs and it started on it !!......so even though I have fuel flow to the carbs, the carbs are plugged somehow so I will have to figure that out. So anyway, I went ahead and got my fire extinguisher remounted, and cleaned the windows inside and out. I sanded down the inner lip on the quarter windows, then I taped it off and sprayed it gloss black. The paint in that area was NOT good, so this is a "fix". Once hardened, I will use some 2000 grit to smooth up the line. I also went ahead and lubed up my brake and clutch pins on the pedals, and got the pedal stopper in so I can fine tune pedal height. Small steps forward today.

08-19-2023 UPDATE. I installed a new coil and a new ballast. Tried to start, no start. Disconnected the coil wire and held it to head and cranked....nice big spark....check fuel flow, good fuel flow, so I am wondering if a bad ballast can make a coil go bad, can it make an electric distributor go bad? I have a spare distributor, I will try that next. After that I began the process of getting the stainless trim into my windshield weatherstripping. To get it to fit I had to trim off the wings on both sides, which actually still leaves a bit for the rubber to hold on to on both sides, PLUS I ran a bead of pure silicone clear caulk in their as well. I ran out of trim, so I had to stop on that for now, and then jumped on the Windshield Wiper motor. It is a conversion to a modern Honda Wiper Motor. I bought it on eBay as a kit as it is already converted, and came with a rubber cover over the motor as well as a schematic on how to modify the bracket to work. So after I took everything out of the cowl and vacuumed it out, I went ahead and modified the bracket and painted it black, then mounted the new wiper motor to it and installed it.. The Arms that connect to it are rusted firm against the ends, so I will have to try PB blaster, heat, or replace them. I deleted the windshield wiper fluid tank and motor, so this will be set up so if I needed the wiper in an emergency to get home, I could use them....or just leave the wiper blades off until I am forced legally to put them on. Not sure which way I want to go on that. My Kameari sticker arrived and it is under the hood as well. PICS:

08-13-2023 UPDATE. Fuel pump in, odds and ends. I finished the carter fuel pump install, and she really pushes the fuel! A lot quiter than the K&N pump i had was. Then I went ahead and repainted the fuel tank where some white overspray had gotten on there....now it looks so much better from the rear! After the install, I tried to get her to start...plenty of fuel but no spark....so I will have to look into that I suppose. I then spent some time ust putting all the little things back together, and tightening things down, etc. I took a few pics.

08-12-2023 UPDATE: Finishing things up, little by little. My dash cap had a lot of overspray, and wiping with alcohol wasn't doing a thing, so I masked it off, and wiped it a couple times with a clean rag and alcohol, and sprayed it with SEM Landau Back interior paint. Then I masked and sprayed the console and shift boot as well, as the little white dots were everywhere, including my rear strut covers, so I painted and reinstalled them. After that I went ahead and drilled out the holes for the 1/4" thick steel plates that go under where my rollbar holes are to help support the rollbar and cinched them down. I then went ahead and poured some octane boost into the fuel to deal with the 88 octane issue and my high compression engine, and then also went ahead and isntalled a new set of NGK BPR8ES plugs, which are 2 heat ranges colder to help with detonation. I went ahead and gapped them at .031 which should give me reliable spark. I capped off the vacuum advance for the engine, as the engine just has too much compression to deal with ANY added timing. Lastly, I started the install of my Carter fuel pump and filter. I removed the old pump, and got the new pump about 90% done. Tomorrow God willing, I will install a one way check valve right after the pump going to the engine. This will make it so that there is less waiting for the pump to deliver fuel to the carburetors. Progress is being made, and completion is very near. Pics

thanks

08-06-2023 UPDATE. CLEANING! Before cleaning, I re-attached my rear spoiler, and used 3M double sided tape to help the 2 bolts that hold it on. Then it began.....I washed the car, then washed the engine, then cleaned up and put the interior back in. Tiring work....PICS

08-05-2023 UPDATE. Spent the majority of the day finishing the paint. i got it sanded out and buffed. Feels great to be done (for the most part, a few nicks to fix, etc.). I then hooked up my new clevis fork to my clutch, and measured it out 3/8 longer. I tried it out. PERFECT. Clutch takes up halfway out and have play at the end! Tuning is going to be tricky, I sarted to mess with it, but decided to just call it a day and think about where I am at. Pics follow.

Most new clutch master cylinders these days come with a rod that is a hair too short, like mine is, so I had to add length, and followed what others have done. So here is my clutch master cylinder fork with welded nut for length....Here it is welded....then I took it home, pulled the bolt and cut her down and cleaned it up a bit. I made sure the threads worked and gave it a quick shot of clear and it is drying. Should work. 🙂

Personal observations......"only 300 hp" is a lot in a z car. There is no cheap way to build a Z car correctly, and swaps are never as easy as they make it look online.

could it be as simple as welding a nut on the end of the fork and screwing into just that, no farther, and that 3/8 of an inch could make the difference?

no...... I went ahead and lengthened it over all by one full inch. Before the clutch pedal was 6.5 inches off the floor. With this extension, the pedal is at maximum movement up, around 10 inches. The factory recommends the pedal height to be 8.78 inches. I went ahead and tried it anyway. It DOES work, in that I can shift gears, put it in reverse, etc. But the clutch takeup is right at the end of the pedal travel, and there is NO play in the pedal at all. Should I make the extension 1/2 inch instead of 1 inch? I don't have a longer rod to just swap out. Attached is a pic of my extension. It is a threaded coupling with nuts on both end to lock it, with threads screwed in the end for teh fork to screw on. it isn't flimsy at all, it actually is very stout. Please HELP!

07-30-2023 UPDATE. Jumped on the fuel leak in the rear first....the 51 year old original hose couldn't take the pressure of the pump and blew out, so I replaced it, then went ahead and installed the rollbar, then added in inch to the clutch master cylinder rod....now it is WAY too long! So I guess 1/2" longer?? Pedal is at max height, and the clutch letout is at the very end. At any rate, I then started the car up and set the initial timing at 15 degrees. Took her for a maiden drive in the parking lot....very lean, and it pings as soon as you step on the gas.....octane of the fuel in there is 88 so I will add octane booster and richen the carbs and start that fun again. At any rate everything works, and I now know the engine and trans will not have to come back out. I took some pics...the car is VERY dusty and dull, because it is sanded with 2000 grit and waiting to be buffed. The roof is already buffed but covered in dust. Car is about 90% done now. I am about spent.....glad it is almost done. Cheers. PICS:

07-29-2023 update. Busy Day! I started with confirming I was at Top Dead Center on #1, and I was. That was great. I thought for sure I was going to have to drop the oil pump, etc. I also found out that my 240Z L24 timing pointer is much better than the L26 scale I have on there as well....so ignore the scale......I then went to drop in my new distributor but the slot for the screw that holds it in place after timing adjsutmenst was WAY off....so I had to dremel it out to work. Once In, I went ahead to tied things up and tried to start the car....SUCCESS! I was so happy! No smoke, no bang, no explosion...I let it run and get nice and hot, and was rewarded with the weird smells of a new engine seating in for at least an hour if not more. 40-45 psi oil pressure at idle, or 950 RPM I guess......must be the 10W30 break in oil holding the pressure back a hair....at any rate, it IS good pressure, so I my first REAL engine build and it didn't screw it up. Thank you Jesus. After that, I started on the extension for the rod on my clutch master cylinder where it hooks up to the pedal.....not long enough. From what I have read it is a common problem, so I have that in the works. When the engine was running, one of my old fuel lines in the back decided it didn't like being under pressure and blew a leak, so I have that to do now as well. I got the rollbar all unpackaged, and it is ready for install. Next I ran my new set of Taylor cut to fit 8mm spark plug wires, what a pain. But I got them done. Then ended the day color sanding my hood , isnpection doors and top of front fenders, etc. I got about 95% done and my new orbital sandeer broke, so I ordered another one. Lasted 2 weeks. I DID get it nice and hot and worked the heck out of it though. Here are some pics of the busy day. Cheers.

yeah. We will see if this helps out. Color sanded the clear coat paint on the roof tonight in 2000 grit and then spent about 1.5 hours polishing it with a buffer and 2 grits of polish (Macguires #105 then #205). Glass smooth now!

Entire new clutch kit and conversion kit from Godzilla Raceworks, as this car is an automatic transmission to manual stop. Whole whole kit is from exedy and matched. The clutch master cylinder is exedy, and the rod is just too short!

the pedal won't move up if the stop is turned in, unless you unhook the clutch rod. It is too short.

Thanks, I am trying......Yep, going back to a factory setup with breakerless ignition. When in doubt, go with factory stuff (or designed like factory if the original stuff is no longer available).

also the clutch pedal is much lower than the brake pedal.