RebekahsZ

Keep the racing seat and mount a bottle on the passenger side!

Are you an English major? Holy crap, I had to get out a dictionary! That was pure poetry-truly exceptional writing, except the "not a daily driver" stuff. I get way better mileage with my modern v8 than I ever did with the old L24 with carbs and a lot less fumes. The car is more docile in every capacity. I should get a tax break for all the good my swap did for the environment! Just teasing-I enjoyed your post.😄

That's flying!

Ordered new Rota RBs for my autocross tires-tired of cleaning brake dust off intricate mesh style wheels. No more cut up wet fingers for me!

Sweeeeeeeet!

I got a very similar manifold with my dellortos, except that the three manifolds were separate without any connecting webs. Like yours, mine had no markings.

Please accept my deepest regrets and apologies for opening this can of worms. Was really just trying to tease the boys for ogling the pretty girl. Can we please get back to cars? So sorry, Taryn, your cars are super.

About firewall: there is a rain gutter at the very top of the firewall. Very rare for firewall to actually leak. I have a friend who removed his airconditioning system and left all the hose holes open. He gets fumes, but no rain water.

Driver side, hmmmm. Windshield and doors are still first choice always, but. Cowl is still high on list too. There is a lap joint between the firewall and the cowl that has seam sealer in it. That can lose the sealer or rust out. You check that by removing cowl and looking in. Also possible to leak where the cowl drains and vent tubes come thru. Throw out your carpets and paint your floor. It is very liberating!! While you are chasing drips I'm at the dragstrip having a blast.

Did you remove the seatbelt bolts? if so, you can push an awl thru the carpet thru the empty bolt holes from under the car. Then cut down along the awl (a cut off piece of clothes hanger would probably also work). Email me at pkeiththompson@yahoo.com and ill take some pics of my floorpans when I get off work. Ill send them as replied to your email address. I have 72 240z so should be the same.

I was just horsing around. Welcome aboard!

I've never thought the tool bin was a very nice place to put people. But threads like this one certainly qualify. Aggressive? Aggressive for what?! A certain look.

Hey gang, I've seen folks looking for these grease caps before. I was stalking ebay and found them. If you know anybody who needs one, get 'em while they are available. I cannot vouch for these, I just stumbled across the add. Go to ebay and search Grease Cup, Turbo Half-shaft End

Yes, you will have 3/8" clearance to the coilover spring seat. The rear tires may scrape a little on the fender on full bump if your car is lowered. A little trimming of the fender flange may be needed, but not much.

The condensation on the ceiling probably came from evaporation from the floor. Remove your carpets or you will lose your floorpans. I've never been able to get the water to stop coming thru my inner door panels. If you have water on the passenger side floor, remove the cowl and look inside on the passenger side for rust around the "chimney" where the heater gets its air - popular rust-out location. I've been running without carpets for 20 years due to water leaks, but my floor pans look great!

Tony D. Thanks for the info. I was just curious. I'm gonna get off this thread so I don't thread jack it. Cool history.

Wow! What is the CV boot mode of failure?

That has to be a record!

Don't get too excited boys. If you read the text you will learn that she co-bought her z with her "partner." Now, here in Alabama, the use of the term "partner" means a girl don't like dudes. Maybe in Australia it means something different.

I suggest all of it if you want to really find all the rust.

SUNNYZ- did you use JCI mounts or make your own, I can't recall.

JCI (Johns Cars Inc., also known as BrokenKitty) is what most of us have used. A few guys have mad their own mounts. wfritts911 made a pretty cool system in his front yard! But, I talked to him recently and he seemed to like JCIs a little better than his home made mounts because it left more room for exhaust routing. I used JCI. That system uses the LS1 camaro-firebird mount on the left side and an aftermarket mount on the right that is included with the kit. Alternator placement can be a problem with the LS2 alternator from the GTO-so with advice from the forum, I changed to an LS1 camaro alternator and it worked great. Some guys with truck motors have put the alternator up high (look at Cable's build). I think there are some front accessory drive variations that have to be resolved, but I don't know the specifics. I believe it has been discussed on the forum, but I don't know where. I think Cable is the guy to talk to when it comes to using truck motors.

I kind of like jnewby's idea. Kind of like a resume' forum for members, so you can research somebody before you make an ass of yourself. I've met some really cool folks on this forum and look forward to as many face-to-face meetings as I can. The first hybridz member that I ever met was Terry Oxendale (Blue Oval Z) when I was in medical school - I just happened to see his garage door open when I was driving around after class one day. And the rest is history! I've had some super phone conversations with folks who helped me understand some problem in my LS swap or my diff/axle upgrades. We've got a lot of really cool members who have some amazing fabrication skills and some pretty impressive engineering credentials. I think the toughest part of being a car enthusiast is learning your limits and figuring out where you fit in. For example, I can't expect johnc, Mikelly or CobraMatt to put up with me much because I'm a hobbyist just having fun and they are in the real-deal high-end road race set. However, they have been super nice sharing info and experience. The super high horsepower drag set is equally entitiled to get annoyed with me because I have a limit to how much power mods I want to do, but guys like jnjdragracing, and 1QUICKZ have been super cool. Similarly, I have a hard time putting up with the low-rider set, because I have more of a performance bent where my z-car is concerned. On a custom forum, I'm all about lowriders, and on a hot rod forum I'm all about highboys and chopped coupes. Once you understand yourself and the people around you, you kind of know where you fit in. I want to help other folks, but I don't reply to posts that I don't actually know something about (after 20 years with one z-car) or have some first hand experience with-no reason for folks to keep making the same mistakes. I still have tons to learn. Like how to be brief.

I forget, are you coilovered? Watch the oil pan clearance, mine is lowest point on car.

You need to ensure that you are comparing apples to apples. Make sure you understand the difference between offset and backspacing. I have coilovers and the most back spacing I can mount without rubbing the strut is 4.75". Offset can get very confusing, so it is best to talk in terms of back spacing whenever possible (because all you need to measure it is the rim, a straight edge and a tape measure). You kind of have to know arithmetic to figure out offset and I can't ever get it straight in my head. If you have coilovers you can take the 4.75" back spacing limit to the bank. That gives you some sort of a measurement to start from. The max I can fit inside the fender with a 4.75" back spacing is an 8 inch rim. That jives with what Kings Evil said above. So, your 12" rim will hang out approximately 4" if you start with a 4.75" back spacing. 10" rim will hang out approximately 2 inches. Problem comes when the wheel seller won't get up and go out to the warehouse with a straigh edge and tape measure before he ships. Hope that helps a little.