RebekahsZ

You got me thinking. RAFAS Runs As Fast As Shit Return And Finance After Saturday Runs After Friday And Saturday Runs As Fast As Susan (that's the guy Bruce Jenner beat in the Decathalon) Run Away Fast And Scared Reverse And First Are Shot Reefer And Fat Ass Sweet I dunno what it means. Kinda fun to try to guess.

PM me with pics of the solid axle you are gonna ditch I might want it.

Front tie downs on frame. I had a bracket welded to the dog-bone and I strap to that. There's not much in the rear to strap to.

Think about joining an autocross club-then you can hoon around without the fear of damaging anything. Plus, you will really be racing instead of being reckless. Just imagine how you'd feel if you killed somebody's little girl.

You can often buy them thru O'Reilly's rare parts program. They were cheaper all clean and rebuilt that you usually find them on eBay or here.

These all look great, but I guess ya better pair them with some TTT adjustable LCAs if you wanna increase negative camber as needed to actually make a Z corner. My car pushed like a mother till I got camber plates. Pushed with and without a strut brace. If you look at johnc's picture, I think he has busquit style bolt in camber plates to get his camber. That's a quick and easy way to get it done. But, I don't know if losing one of three bolts per side of the strut bar would render it too flexible (?). Just try to think about what your next modification might be before you start laying down time and money. I personally do a lot of "one-step-forward/two-steps-back" spending. This part kinda looks like an opportunity to do some of that. But it does look cool, can't argue that.

Yup. I've worn out two. If you haven't noticed, these cars are OLD!

Where is it so I can go buy it?

All I can say about the Z console: cup holder.

Jnjdragracing runs a welded R200 with Z31 turbo axles. 1QuickZ-Little Tire Z is a stock geometry IRS with a Corvette center section. Both are automatic cars. I don't know about the rest.

Maybe time to buy a case of beer and get some buddies to help you. It does get to be a grind at times.

I can see how my post could come across prickish and I'm sorry. Yeah, that's the best thread for figuring this out. I would, however, disagree with how tight he recommends making the diff in terms of pre-load. I've done 3 of these build-ups, and have found that low pre-load is good. When you put torque to the diff via the accellerator pedal, the ramps force the clutches together and it locks just fine even if starting from a low pre-load. I'm personally ok with an LSD that is open a good bit, especially since I still drive my car on the street, and if you plan to drive it on the street, a diff that is locking and unlocking is really annoying. When I did my first diff, I had to look at the FAQ post several times and write out the proper stack-up of the clutches and spring plates and draw pictures. The vocabulary was all new to me too. I will try to find my notes and shoot you the stack-up as a photo. There is certainly a possibility that due to clutch wear, tolerances will vary. My point is that the clutches are fairly cheap, and at least for me, time is the limiting resource in getting my car work done. I would recommend having 6 new clutches available so that if your LSD clamps down too tight, you can swap parts around to get the job done. And just go ahead and put 3 tubes of friction modifier in your diff before topping it off with oil. And dunk each disc in a tuperware of oil as you stack them up. I went ahead and attached a photo that shows the part number for shim material if you want to get any.

I ran my fuel pump with its own relay. The signal wire came right off the ECU. I'm not the guy to ask about start circuit-mine has been sketchy. Finally failing with enough regularity that I may be able to find my bad crimp.

If you haven't found the thread that tells you step by step how to do the clutch upgrade you need to find it. I just did mine in accordance with the instructions. I recommend replacing ALL the round clutches with new ones.

Thanks everybody. Sounds like nothing to worry about. No chute this year, maybe in a year or two. I just found out that Burton Brown is working on a REAL Modified Sports class car with the extended nose and an Indy car engine, so my years as a class record holder may be few. Perhaps he will build a car so sophisticated that he will have reliability/sorting troubles that might buy me a little more time.

Great-thank you.

Does this wear pattern mean anything? Mostly street driving. No bad pedal pulsing or anything negative behavior-wise. Just swapping tires after landspeed event with about 7 or 8 controlled decels from 150-plus.... But it had this funny pattern even before that event. These are my street rotors and my street pads. Both sides are about the same. Their tale dark spots are at approximately the interval of the cooling vanes. The rears are evenly shiny. Middle photo is rear.

Looking for something that won't require any buffing-I'm lazy-and am trying to avoid a project. It's just a thin strip of sticky at the edge. Really more concerned about the plastic than the goo.

Then clean the WD-40 off with what? Maybe soap and wate?

I was in a rush to get to a race and used black electrical tape around the gap in my MSA headlight covers. There is some tape residue on them now that I have the tape off. Can anyone recommend a safe solvent that might remove the tape adhesive from the paint without ruining the plastic/plexi/lexan(?)? The adhesive was on for two weeks and is still a little goo-ey.

Contrary to what my wife thinks, the two are not mutually exclusive.

Videos. [sharedmedia=videos:videos:271] [sharedmedia=videos:videos:270] [sharedmedia=videos:videos:269] [sharedmedia=videos:videos:267] [sharedmedia=videos:videos:268]

I was thinking of your issue when I was driving around yesterday in 96-degree Alabama weather. I don't think you will get enough airflow just with a rain gutter delete-too much work for too little reward. Now, a wind-wing mod (like a VW bug or 50s car)-that's worth talking about.

I hate to differ from Jon, but when I did my CLSD clutch upgrade, I wound up with too much preload mixing old and new clutches. When i bolted it all up with mixed clutches, the diff was a spool. Savage42's clutches are just a touch thinner than the original and I wound up with 45# preload just by installing 6 new clutches without any shims. I built one before with shims to preload to 65#; I wouldn't run that much preload again-that diff was to TIGHT and really "bang-bang"-ed on low speed turns. No more shims for me!

If you continue to have play after you adjust your bearings, consider the possibility that the race has become un-staked. Years ago, my driver side inner bearing race got loose in the hub and I had to get a new hub. I think my passenger side is acting that way presently. And I know my right rear inner bearing race is loose in the hub. Just gotta find time to section another strut. Gambling till then.