RebekahsZ

I will post a very sad picture if it comes apart. I'm open to that possibility-heck, a wheel fell off my truck the other day, so humility seems to be on my diet!

Oh...

Flip the bushing over and you won't see the gap.

We shall see, but I think that's a little bit of bull. I don't think I've EVER seen a splitter that I could step on with a clear conscience (or without getting an ass whoopin')! Whenever I'm looking at a car with fancy aero bits, the first thing I do before getting close to it is take my shoes off. But this airdam will have more rigidity than the nose of my old longboard, and it will also have more strength than Clark foam and a 3oz layer of glass.

I'm not familiar with the self-aligning v-band. Sounds good, though. Got a link? My shit had to be spot on, and it is tricky to assemble. Definitely want some flex sections in the tubing to give some misalignment wiggle room.

Polyisocyanurate foam 1/2-inch sheet insulation board from Lowe's. It has foil on one side and plastic on the other, but it is easy to peel off. I put some polyester resin (the nasty-looking brown variety from the hardware store) on some foam as a trial before I left for work this morning. Heading home to check and see if it melted, or not. Photo edit shows that the foam held up to the resin.

I don't think so. Buy ONE and try it.

You can look at your tire wear or temps to determine if there is more traction to be had with camber. I would try to get johnc's alignment settings, then play with those shocks before throwing more money at the problem. There is so much to be learned from shock adjustment and even brake bias adjustment. Next time I go to the track, I know that I want to play with dropping the ass end of my car a good bit-lots of variables to play with other than just spending money.

I have been burned by "fuel resistant" labeling. I would double-check that.

I prefer the single piece. And I would pay extra to have you put the fuzzy strip on and make some simple pulls. I would go with the clean look you have already done-no arm rest, no extra holes. I'm more psyched about this than any other Z product.

That sounds about right.

Rebekah is now 21 and an art student at Auburn University. One of her watercolors was chosen as the cover art for the Auburn University yearbook with an estimated distribution of 25,000 copies.

How do we install the screws at the back to secure the console? I'm planning to spend some cash with you when you give the green light.

Noise?

I ain't no expert, but for me, the rear swaybar was just a pain in the ass. And I just don't think you need it. With the torque of the V8, anything you can do to keep the rear wheels hooked up is an advantage. Anything that costs you traction in back is a liability and will land you in the grass in a heartbeat. In my limited experience, one of the hardest things about driving these cars is exercising restraint exiting corners-you can spin them at will, so you have to make sure you pay lots more attention about getting slowed before turning and getting the car straight before you pile on the right foot. If you did a lot of autocross with the L6 when you could floor it with little fear, its a whole new ballgame now-ya gotta be careful. Of course it's easy to remove or disconnect the swaybar at the track. So you can play with it and do some laps with it attached and then some with it off. I bet you can't tell a difference. So it then becomes an issue when doing maintenance, and that was when I really felt like it was in my way all the time. When you run CV axles, it gets really crowded back there.

Ive been told that the LS family runs best hot. I think the high speed fan comes on at 229 degrees. Mine typically runs 205-210 degrees and seems fine.

How you have it is fine-mine is mounted higher than yours and is fine. I wouldn't revisit this part of the build-check it off the list as done.

Install engine without headers. Install headers. Get motor running. Get full exhaust built. Take exhaust apart abd have modified headers ceramic coated.

Man, that's nice! Super jealous. Do I dare ask the budget?

I bought one from MSA 25 years ago. I get compliments on my "perfect" dash all the time. I didn't even have to glue it down-it hooks on the gauge pod and the defroster vent plate. Just a half-dash. Still looks "perfect" 25 years later. The first and best purchase for my Z.

This should be fun to watch...pulling up a chair.

Stock

You can run them any way you want....once.

Here is a urethane air dam at rest and again at 150 mph. It has a brace in the center.

It will be only for the smooth, straight concrete track at Wilmington, Ohio. High enough to clear the runway lights in the staging area, but low enough to require removal to get the car on the trailer. I would never want to challenge roadcourse curbing with this thing-its gonna be pretty fragile. But, I am learning a lot, which I hope to let me make or modify an airdam for road course that lets me improve my brake ducting situation (or lack thereof). JMortensen-do you think that adding this little down force on the front end will cause LIFTING at the rear? If not, I should be fine. If so, I may need to be on my toes. The car was stable at 167 and didn't demonstrate any negative behavior. The purpose of this airdam is first and foremost to reduce drag. I appreciate your info suggesting that adding a splitter should not negatively affect drag, so that is encouraging. Any downforce I will take as a bonus. Thanks again and feel free to comment or suggest as you see fit. At this point, I really don't have time before the race to do anything to the rear of the car. I'd like to make that a separate project for next year. I wonder how much drag the rear spoiler adds....