RebekahsZ

You know I'm just horsing around, don't you? My car is starting to look like the coat in a Dolly Pardon song.

What pads are you going to use?

Those wheels haven't looked right since about 1980!

Yeah, that big Allen head bolt loosens up with regularity.

Should I trim the splitter off flush or leave a 3" horizontal lip? This airdam is for landspeed, straight-line speed, not lateral traction. Any advice is appreciated.

No sweat-I bet I need you before the cock crows!

Trying to gain 7mph in the Ohio Mile. Come watch-June 6,7 at Wilmington, Ohio.

That's how the konis are-there is no gas charge in them. They are great-run 'em. Much easier to deal with than the gas-filled Tokicos.

Even with a camaro pan, my bellhousing is the lowest point on my car. Change to a C6 pan and the bell will still be dangling down there, daring a speed bump to make my day.

Check JPHglobal. He has used race tires for $150 each shipped. He has some R6 and even some R7s this month. Worth every penny, although I've never run on Rivals before. I think you will feel the benefits half way thru your first lap. 245 is still a good bit of tire if you have a sticky compound that likes getting hot.

I'm trying to build an airdam and enclose the radiator all at the same time.

What tire are you running on the track?

Alainburon-go back to the original post. My clutch is good.

I did DBW-it was no sweat and works great. Get good at installing Weatherpack brand connectors and you will have clean wiring: the DBW pedal that I have used 6 wires. But it is super easy. PM me if you have any trouble.

Having added a sump to a stock tank myself, I would not take that approach if I could do it all over. The stock tank is a bitch to get in and out. Plus, it fits the car do tightly that there is no room for some of the things that an LS-Z eventually winds up needing: like a parachute and a trailer hitch. It's just too crowded.

The slave internal to the bellhousing gets disc dust contamination in the fluid very quickly. Bleed it to exchange fluid at least annually.

I went thru 3 new clutch masters before I got one that wasn't bad. Both Tilton and Wilwood. To test your hydraulics, get an AN3 plug or cap from Summit and plug the master. Bench bleed it first. The pedal should be consistently hard. And it should not bleed down with constant pressure on the pedal. I too had an intermittent problem, but it was obvious that I had a problem once I plugged it. Try hard constant pressure and light constant pressure. If the pedal descends slowly, ya got a bad master cylinder. I run a Mantic ER2 from Eastcoast Superchargers in North Carolina. It's an Australian clutch-I bought the whole kit for like $1200. It has 150 clutch drops at 2500-4500 rpm. I have lifted the front tires a few times (planets were in alignment), street drive smoothly and auto cross and HPDE. I just had it apart and it looked great. Only issue is occasional chatter when daily driving (every blue moon) and you need to take a little off the heads of your ARP flywheel bolts with a grinder-it was designed around stock bolts which are a little thinner at the head. The single clutch disc is ceramic on the flywheel side and organic on the pressure plate side. It is rated at 700 hp and I only put 400 hp to it. Clutch feel is light. I went single disc to keep life simple.

So, tube80z, so what you are saying is that there needs to be a rigid attachment from the control arm to the T-C rod? To keep the control arm from flailing around in a rotational direction? I wonder if a pin and clevis would work better without a bearing at the control arm/T-C rod junction. Most guys still active on this site will likely never see what some of us call "heavy braking". How "heavy" are you talking about?

What a terrific video! And a beautiful track. That track looks crazy fast-what speeds were you hitting? Car looks great.

Argh-check engine light-knock sensor code-now which one???? Argh...maybe I can research the code better.

Mine shipped too!

Having gone thru this, not quite as extensively as Miles, there are only two brake systems for the S30: stock, and AZC. Anything else and you are kinda wasting your time. Take the time you waste on Toyota swaps and go mow yards. By the fall, you will have the money for the AZC kit and you can install it over the winter. And you will thank me. I didn't believe it either, but Im a believer now.

I have an LQ4 in my truck, but I paid somebody to do the swap so I have never had it torn down. Where are the knock sensors located on an LQ4?

Great! Looks like its all coming together nicely. Following to learn more. Turbo LS in my distant future, just probably not in a Z.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122059-installing-quick-time-sfi-bellhousing-with-t56/ Have you checked this link? It is currently on the second page of the Gen III forum.