RebekahsZ

They were Porsche OWNERS not Porsche racers. Kinda like picking off the weak at the back of the heard. I'm certain had there been any drivers there, or set-up cars, that it would have been a different story. Only one guy recognized my a Georgia 1/2-mile t-shirt. I gotta make time to put the video on YouTube so I can share it-the acceleration on the final straight section is terrific! I kept working on my exit speed out of the preceding sweeper until I was entering the straight sideways (slip angle, not big tail-out drift) with my foot on the carpet. What a ball-and 5 minutes from my house! Usually I have to trailer 2 hours for an autocross. I took a the crap out of the bed, but left the receiver hitch on! Should have pulled off the tailgate-a little more aero is always good. But then they might have thought I was actually serious!

I'm getting tired of paying folks to do bad work. The brake controller failed due to the jack ask trailer shop (not the one I use now) pushing the wiring between the metal and the grommet on the steering column. The wires grounded on the chassis, broke the wire and blew a fuse. I have that all tidied up and done like any of us would like it. My battery was having a little trouble starting after having the door open and the dome light burning. So I got that tested and it's bad. Engine swap put the battery up inside the rear fender, so that's another project-maybe tomorrow. Test drove the trailer with new brakes on the second axle-now every tire has brakes-it was AWESOME! Truck and trailer stop on a dime! Did some panic stops and it was so much better than before. Tested out the winch on the trailer-a few whacks with a mallet to loosen up the brushes and it works like a champ-it's ugly, but faithful. Tried to make a little more progress on the Z today. Got the fire system plumbing done across the package tray and down the driver's side. Ran out of stainless tubing with only 1' to go to be complete! Damn, Summitt got another order from me! So, I'm not gonna get to the transmission stuff until this weekend. That gives me two weekends to have that done and buttoned up.

Looks like the HAANS made it pretty hard to get out of the car? Or was it a helmet blower? I think I saw you activate a fire suppression system? Oh, that had to hurt just watching it burn!!! At least no flames came inside. What was the first tip that you were on fire? Great video for teaching purposes but a tough one to watch cause I know how much time you have invested in that car. The Pheonix will rise again.

The ECTA requires that door locks be rendered inoperable so that in the event of a crash, the safety workers can reach in and get your burning corpse out of the car even if your elbow mashes down the door lock plunger in the chaos of your tumbling rolling mess at the fast end of the track when you blow a tire at 175mph due to the crappy 40-year-old rim you have to run due to your stupid 4x114.3 bolt pattern hubs. I present a simple way of complying with this rule book paragraph. Strangely, the Japanese Z car uses an SAE 8x32 post for the male threaded section of the door lock rod. So you don't need to make 4 trips to the specialty hardware store and spend $1 per nut for fine thread metric nuts (this project has made me a little nuts!). So you get a washer and a nut and screw them on in place of plastic lock plunger and the paragraph is complied with. Put a section of vacuum hose over the exposed rod so you don't rip you elbow on it. Done. Why not remove the rod, you say? Well, you might want to quickly reverse this setup to be able to lock tools inside your car during transport, or you might want to lock the car when you drive it to work on Monday after the race.

Wow, so very sorry! What do you think happened to start the fire?

Went to breakfast with friends and noticed a bunch of sweet Porsches in town. After breakfast followed them to a Porsche show complete with autocross. Asked the dude at timing tent if I could run and borrow a helmet. He said "Sure, what are you driving?" "S-10 extended cab." Didn't tell him it had a 389hp LQ4 in it. Well, most of the Porsche guys were content to sip brandy and polish their cars, so the staging lane never had more than 4 cars in it. I hot-lapped the 50-second course for 4 hours. Truck was incredibly neutral, and even stopped fairly well (I pulled the ABS circuit breaker). Course was very tight but I saw 78 mph on the back straight (actually one of many passengers saw 78-I was kinda busy looking for my braking point). By the day's end I was within a second of the fastest Porsche and I think the big personal injury lawyer in town (the Lambo) wanted to trade vehicles. I've never had somebody in a Lambo roll down his window to talk to ME. All thanks to hybridz! Thanks to all my crazy and supportive friends and the moderators. Now, back to the shop to get the Z ready for Ohio Mile. And I gotta fix the wiring on the truck's brake controller so I can use it to tow the Z up. Headers are kinda hot at the moment!

Antiseize definitely helps and that was great to brush them out. Unfortunately, most of the antiseize scrapes off going into the bore. Also, hopefully you won't have to remove it for 20 years and it WILL rust again in that interval. Lube up the locator pin well too. The hot ticket is to get rid of the Nissan part and replace it with a 5/8" bolt. The bolt has just enough extra clearance to make getting it out easier even if a little rusty.

Picked up trailer and now my brake controller is not getting power. Probably another wiring issue from the engine swap in the truck. Glad it's not the night before the race! Downloaded a wiring schematic for the controller and I will do the voltmeter voodoo dance around the truck after work and try to fix it. To get the car to the race I have to keep 3 vehicles fixed: tow truck, trailer, and of course the Z. One step forward-two steps back. And it is prom weekend for my younger daughter. Don't know that Im gonna get started on the bellhousing this weekend. I'm gonna make it!

After trickle charger overnight, the starter turns but the fuel pump isn't priming (one advantage to a noisy fuel pump-makes trouble shooting easy)! Hoping to start finding my wiring screw up tomorrow night. Picking up my trailer which just got brakes installed on the second axle and new tires.

That's a much nicer piece than the MSA urethane version. I will be getting a fiberglass version soon. Thanks for posting that link. The brake ducting holes are in the wrong place on the urethane version and don't line up with anything.

My firewall flexes a lot. Haven't seen anybody else on hybridz need bracing but it really helped me. This is a 1" Tilton. I like it over the Wilwood because of the bosses for my braces and for the bleeder screw. The Wilwood version looks slicker but lacks these features. For the Wilwood you need an NPT to AN adapter. For the Tilton you need a female to male AN adapter.

Beautiful car!

Tried to start car tonight and had a dead battery. Trickle charger on it overnight. Got the numbers on the windows.

Not with me. I don't do LASIK-I work on sick people. When you are 80 and can't see, I'm your man!

Send me a text to 256-366-4685 and I can connect you to a guy selling a 3.70 R200 CLSD in Alabama. I can send you pics. He wants $600 plus shipping. Use "diff wanted" as the subject of your text.

I don't understand why car shops are prone to do this. We have money, but neither time nor skills, so we hire somebody who says they want to do this sort of thing. Then they just kinda quit(?). WTF! I'd like to try that some time: start somebody's eye surgery, then half way thru say: "**** it, Im goin' Turkey hunting....for six months...and leave the patient on the table and just walk away...and not call anybody to tell them." Yet somehow these places survive. I don't get it.

Ok, I did the same thing as you and my Datsun rod is just a tad too short-even adjusted to the max. Probably just subtle differences in clearances from car to car. Nothing worse than having a rod that is just a tad too short!

Sorry-I bought it within hours of the original post. It pays to cruise hybridz a couple times a day!

Just wait ti you find a Camaro or GTO trans. The CTSV trans requires a weird driveshaft and a weird shifter assembly. These parts pop up when you aren't looking. As soon as you buy something screwy, the right part will pop up for half of what you paid. Tell your wife you are selling the car. Book a fancy vacation to Bora Bora. Put the car up for sale. Next thing you know, you will find 3 T56s new in the box within a mile of your house.

You aren't welding the threaded rod, you will be modifying the clevis that screws on the rod to join it to the pedal assembly. There's a nut on it. You swap the nut from metric to SAE. No modification to the rod. You will understand when the parts are in your hand.

Show you some of the weird landspeed things. Battery power cables to go from the positive post thru a rear NHRA switch near the license plate to another switch beside the driver to the firewall with a bulkhead connector. Got these made up at the local heavy truck supply shop. Inertia switch with a (probably incomparable video file) that shows how it works. Then a weather pack-connected wire for the fuel pump. The inertia switch is in-line with the fuel pump signal wire from the ECU to the fuel pump relay. Got the fuel tank grounding strap done and the wheel mounted. Glad to be done with that evil fuel tank. Gonna put some gas in it tonight and see if it will run, then test this crazy electrical system out. trim.ZB92hW.MOV

Thank you-that was great!

I expected your jack to be chrome-you slackin'! Seriously, your car is awesome.

I'm building a fire suppression system that uses 1/4" stainless hard line tubing and compression fittings, so I dont need a flared end, nor do I think the ends on the tubing have to be perfectly square. I've never dealt with stainless line, nor compression fittings. Should I cut that with a standard brake tubing cutter or cut it with a saw and dress the end? I'm betting that stainless is pretty hard and will ruin the wheel on my brake cheap tubing cutter.

Man, Im pooped! Electrical mods are finished. The cutoff switches work. I need to pick up a grounding strap for the fuel tank and I can put the rear tires on and set her on the ground, get some fuel in the tank and make sure it still runs. Then I gotta make the sprinkler lines and get the seats in. I should be ready for next weekend and the bellhousing swap. That stock fuel tank is a bitch to install-why oh why did I not install a cell? My filler tube attachment to the tank always seems so borderline-but it has never leaked. Hope this time follows that record.