RebekahsZ

I LOVE those valve covers.

Great info guys. I'm not in a big hurry-it's been seeping for a year, so perhaps I can do this once and be fine with it with a little more investigation.... Anybody heard of a BSPT-to-NPT adapter? I will start searching for that, but I am not familiar with the British spec-is it 1/8" also? I thought WE rebuilt Japan after the war-why the heck did they use a British spec??!

I have had a very slow leak on the oil pressure sender down at the oil pan. I used the JCI location and used a 1/8" brass FIP fitting to get clearance from the header. So, the Datsun sender is screwed into the 1/8" FIP fitting. I dunno if the Japanese pipe thread is FIP, but it fits pretty good, but leaks a little, no matter how tight I make it. So I'm trying to decide whether to put a little 2-part epoxy in between the FIP and the sender before I screw them together. OR should I try to put them together and try to sweat a little solder into the joint with a butane torch? Looking for suggestions. I really don't want to relocate to the top of the intake yet, but I know that is an option if I can't make this work. I don't want to drop oil on the track this summer. Plus this is the only messy place on the entire car.

No problems. Two years of clutch drops from 2000-4500 rpms on VHT-prepped tracks with bias ply slicks and Z31t axles. Haven't tried drag radials, but I hear the brake axles. The problem is not the diff. It is the axles.

If you are bothered by gear whine, don't put your ear on my roll bar.

Somebody is suffering from the "while I'm at its."

Sorry to eat up more space on Mikes thread, but i know it is one of the more popular threads on the forum. I'm getting together at a show in Franklin, TN with three other hybridz members. I really could care less about the show (I won't even wash my car in prep). But it is a chance to get together with someV8 z-guys. Nobody else really gets me. I'm an odd ball at the track, an odd ball at hot rod shows, an odd ball at work and at church. I'm hoping we all get along on Saturday, because car guys usually have really strong personalities and aren't always big on tact. But I really look forward to a chance to see other cars, put names with faces, and gather some new approaches. Its been a long winter in the shop by myself. Again, Mike, sorry I put that on your thread, but I think it is relevant to why we like to look at what you are doing.

R200s and R180s whine (and clunk). It's just a Z thing. Put more carpet in the hatch area and turn up the stereo. You will spent a fortune fixing something that probably isn't broken. Keep oil in it and drive the diff until it strands you. Treat it like a red headed stepchild. I have never seen the T5 driveshaft but I can't imagine that the u-joints wouldn't be replaceable. Look at the inside edge of the caps for c-clips.

Look for any numbers cast on the block or heads and post them. The answer to your questions is in the numbers. Don't worry about your rearend until you have the motor and tranny in and running-folks always get ahead of themselves on this subject. Shoot a photo of the front of the engine so we can see the alternator and crank pulleys and the throttle body.

I am following this thread to learn from you. I look forward to celebrating your success. I have watched a bunch of Matt's videos, and I have seen his friend using all 6 gears with the red camaro. I wonder what tire, rear and tranny gear set he is using. I am using tire diameter to make rpm adjustments- on my car and I hope it doesn't kill my short game. Thanks again for all your advice on the flares-I have plenty of room.

John, you tend to get very technical when you are talking to hacks like me, and in the end I often don't understand your real intent or the idea you are trying to convey. I mean this with all respectfullness, but would you be willing to come down to the "redneck hotrodder" level on the issue of additional attachment points? I can't really tell whether you are for them or against them. I know you say they aren't necessary, but are they potentially beneficial? Would you be willing to give a short discussion of a few sentences or perhaps a paragraph on the subject? In class, could you discuss how one might most wisely design any said attachments (I don't think we can just look at the current fad of lots of attachments fulll of lightening holes and assume that what looks cool is actually best)? I was under the impression that in some sanctioning bodies additional attachents were forbidden, yet when I go to the track for sanctioned events and see used race cars for sale on the internet, they seem to have LOTS of additional attachments to the body-cars that have been thru tech inspection that very day! I respect your opinion, could you be more elaborate on the subject?

Well, up here farther to the north and west, "murdered" means we done kill-t somebody. Lessen its in self-defense, or we just don't like 'em, or they's no-accounts or sech. In sech circumstances they had it comin'. 'Course we can't afford no ammo lately-you got any 22LR-that stuff's done got high? You must be one of them city boys what wears his pants down like he lost the straps on his overalls, and wears his hat with a straight bill and talks like that ole boy Vanilla Ice. That was one confused little feller. He weren't sure which side of the tracks he was dropped on, but he was for sure dropped on his head. Maybe he invented that new fangled definition of "murdered." And I heard he put all his money up his nose-I'd shore hate to see his sinuses!

Looks great. You need to join us for Z Attack in Franklin, TN this Saturday. Come up for a visit sometime-good to know there are other hybridzs around here. PS-does boost really get you laid? I'll have to try that and see if it works. What does nitrous get you?

Very cool. I love seeing that front end drop at the end of the video. I have 400hp in my LS2 240Z and I hate being beaten by S2000s at the autocross. Very cool swap-that thing is a beast!

Thanks, David. I only use the quarter glass to keep the rain out. I can't imagine getting my car nice enough that I'm worried about the quality of the quarter glass. But then again, I haven't driven the car against a setting or rising sun, so we will see. Thanks for the offer; I will keep you in mind Glad it wasn't my windshield (that's why I wanted to bring this to everybody's attention. Car is finally home after a prolonged absence (like 6 weeks). Got to get out there and set ride height and get some paint on all the raw metal. I know the rat-rod crew likes rust, but not me!

You definitely don't want the stock T56: 6th gear is too low to use for anything other than gas mileage. That jump from .75 to .50 is a real rpm black hole. I suspect you have looked at the close ratio Magnum or even MTIs dog box? Just my personal experience with my GTO T56. You have way more experience than I, so I do not mean to contradict your idea, rather I hope only to contribute. Has Matt been running out of gear in 5th or 6th?

Thanks for the feedback. I've been looking at Hoosier's fitment guide and noticed that the 275/16 and the 275/17 have about the same diameter and width, so there is no real fitment advantage to the 16 over the 17. I'm just not ready to cut my fronts. I autocross less often than monthly, and those fenders are so pretty in stock form. Beautiful car-thanks for the advice and experience.

I don't know if you want any suggestions, but here is one. I regret having put my line lock solenoid in a place that is difficult to get to. I had to rebuild mine for a bad O-ring at 1 year of use. You want to be able to get to all the fittings and that nut on the bottom in order to service it. I really boxed mine into a corner behind the left cylinder head and the firewall. I stopped by the drag strip this Saturday just to try to pick up a set of drag radials for my coming land-speed blunders. There were Mustangs and Camaros running LOW 4s. One car went 197 in the 1/8th, although most were in the 150 range. On 275-series drag radials. Crazy. I just made an offer on another chassis-some time in the next 10 years I'm going to make a turbo car with a back-half. I've never seen machines that fast. Lots to learn.

Just a quick FYI. Just got car back from roll bar builder. Welding and grinding on your car can ruin the glass-the sparks seem to actually melt the glass leaving millions of pits. I think it only really hurt my quarter windows (which I haven't cleaned in 20 years), but it could have been worse. The glass gets pitted and can't be fixed. Cover that glass when working in the vicinity.

My stock 6.0 liter LS2 provides 400hp to rear wheels, chassis dyno proven. It is out of a 2006 Pontiac GTO, a.k.a. Holden. No mods other than shortie headers to fit in car and minimal computer tuning. I plan to add an Accusump.

Wheel man-can you fit the 275/45/16s in front without flares or trimming the fender? Especially considering the 6 of caster? What width wheel is that on?

I have a set of 16x8 and a set of 17x9.5 in Royal Gun Metal. They have been great-no complaints. I bought a set of 15x7 in HyperBlack-every wheel in that "set" was a different shade of color. Just open the boxes and check the color when they come in. Also, the center caps don't fit on the front wheels because of hub clearance. Also, you need a smaller-hex lug nut since the lug nuts are recessed into the wheel. No cracks and quality seems great, although the "lips" are not super polished-more like a machined finish. I should note that I have coilovers and flares in the rear. I actually run 16s in front and 17s in back because I haven't flared the front fenders yet. If the RBR or RKR were available in 18s I would have a set for sure. If you know of a 18" wheel that is of the same Watanabe-knock-off-style, let me know. I love the retro look. Excepting CCWs, all the 18s I can find look like Honda wheels.

Sure! I will use a wrap-around shoulder harness with individual belts. It will wrap around the horizontal bar behind the shoulder holes in the seat. The lap belts will bolt to the stock threaded holes in the floor pan using the stock bolts. The crotch belt will be bolted to the floor thru the "frame rail" using big fender washers. The diagonal bars going to the tranny tunnel have two functions. One function is side impact support. The NHRA doesn't require a main hoop diagonal like SCCA does. NHRA rule book figured show those diagonals below the harness bar. So, I've tried to satisfy both SCCA and NHRA by having both a main hoop diagonal AND the two other little bars. Secondly, I installed them to hopefully keep my diff from coming thru the floor again.

I think the parameter to have your tuner change, to effect a faster rpm drop when the throttle is closed, is called idle air flow. I think we dropped mine to zero. Which you would think would kill the motor, so it isn't exactly zero. It helped a lot. I have drive by wire, so we could also reduce my throttle motor sensitivity. That helped a lot with power snap oversteer coming out of corners.

I gave up my e-brake in order to have a car that would stop at the track. I will admit that I miss a cable-operated parking brake. But, it stops now.