clarkspeed

Whew! I can wait another 40 years before that happens again. I was very lucky through all of this. Didn't even lose power. Spent 2 days cleaning up the yard though. Lost my DSL. Seems the storm was so compact, moving so fast, that West Orlando didn't get any more than 50-60 MPH winds. I couldn't have been more than 10 miles from the eye. The east side of a huricane is always more brutal. If any of you Florida dudes need help, let me know.

To each his own. I guess everyone has a different view on what a street engine should be. Personally, I've never liked driving a race engine on the street and consequenty never liked racing a street engine. Anything in between is a compromise. You can tune the trips for a good bottom end torque also. A friend of mine, best webber tuner I know, built an excellent set up street 10:1 L28 240 recently. I know he choked down the carbs some. He ended up with around 480" lift. Good gas mileage, and instant power off idle. Waste of good carbs? It still looks, drives, and sounds cool to me.

Keep in mind the compression of your motor has impact on how much cam you want to run. If your going to be over 10:1 with the flat tops and P90 you can run pretty good lift. If your at 9.5 or so then you will be limited more. I've been playing with cams for awhile trying to get the most power on pump gas (10.5:1). I ended up with 490 lift/290 duration being about the best. However, I RACE on this set up and I don't really like it at all on the street. Idle at > 1200 and dead until 3.5k on RPM. Great power 3.5-7k though. I had an old cam a couple of years ago I loved on the street. It had about 450 on lift with some extra duration. The bottom end torque on that engine was awesome and mucho fun on the street. I feel bottom end torque is most important for street engine vs. ultamate power. Much more fun to drive around. As much compression as you can stand with mild cam seems to be the best bet.

I have the HKS now and it does have a large bore. It will give me the side clearance I need if I take it to the limit. Damn near 1/8" on the radius. If I make a square notch down to the top of the ring it's going to look pretty radical and will cost me a few compression cc's. Anyway, it's more than I can do with a hand grinder and will need to be milled. Are you running a stroker now? I've got a diesel crank on the bench I've been thinking about using...... My question is: What kind of RPM is practical for one of those things. That would determine my cam selection.

John, I bought a couple hunderd $ of stuff from Arizona and they threw in the cam sprocket at a considerable discount and free shipping with the other stuff. A surprise to me since they rarely discount so I bought one. I haven't installed it yet but it looks like it should work well. They machine out a ring gear from an existing sprocket and mate it to an aluminum pully. I don't endorse vendors, but I've never been disapointed with Arizona products or service.

Yes, 35 is stock and 38 oversize, L28. Sorry about the brain damage. I think things will fit but I need to notch all out to the head gasket and down to the top ring. What I didn't realize was that it needed to be cut square to get the maximum amount of material out. A typical unschroud angle grind cut will not work. If I get it milled out it will look strange to me. I've never seen this amount of material removed before.

Does anyone have any experience running a 38mm exhaust valve in a L6 head? I just built up a new head and decided to throw the 38's in there since I needed new valves anyway. I am running a high lift cam which throws them right into the cylinder walls. I know I need to "unschroud" the block to get a fit but it looks like a lot of material to remove. Curious if anyone else has gone through this before.

Send me you e-mail address and I will send you an Excel spreadsheet you can use. I ended up with TPS load sensing and disconnected the MAP. I have some numbers that should get you in the ballpark. You really need a wide-band O2 sensor like the Inovate LM-1 to dial it in precise.

3" doesn't give enough back pressure so stick with 2.5" unless you have a monster turbo. I run a Dynomax UltraFlow combined with a short dynomax race glaspack under the car. I love this set up. I prefer the "straight thru" muffler designs over baffles, loops, supertraps, etc.

ummm, not to be a pain in the ass, but 1g acceleration equates to approximately a 9 second quater mile... Only if you can maintain it.

I've ridden the Top Fuel ride twice now. It is a blast, very realistic. My wife loves it more that I do!

Baffles are a must. I'm over 1g in all directions. Sometimes, on rare ocasions, in the Z axis too!

I would go for that if it had decent baffles

Arizona Z makes one for the L6

If used on the track, consult your rulebook for legality. I prefer ATL or Fuelsafe. They are the best. For street, I don't know any one stands out. You get what you pay for. The foam acts as a baffle.

It's a trick I learned from another racer. It's only a slight angle change so it doesn't seem to hurt anything. Probably adds a little bump steer but it makes toe setting a breeze. I mis-quoted earlier, run a poly bushing on the front and the adjustable bushing on the rear. You can set the toe without jacking. I have no idea how I ended up with one pair. If they do come in sets of 4 maybe you can split with someone.

If you only need to adjust toe, you can buy one pair and install one in the front of each arm.

If your timing marks look good then you should be alright. I assume you have advanced the cam to compensate for the reduced deck hight since the marks line up. The only risk is the tensioner jumping out of the housing. If this happens you will have trouble. I think the "How to Modify Nissan OHC Engine" book covers some tricks to limit the travel of the tensioner.

Search for threads on this site. I'm running a set from a Mercedes V8.

Grab a 75 and simply port out the casting tits that protrude into the outlet bores so the inside is round. Also port the inlet to fit a bigger TB. Flows pretty good then!

I think my springs are in the 250-275 range if I remember correctly and car weighs around 2450 empty. Springs are just a little stiff for auto-cross work, a little soft for hard track work, and torture for street drive. Just the right compromise for me. I run Carerra's and love them. Non-adjustable, but it's one less thing I need to worry about. Mystrut nut came loose at Sebring and the thing slapped around in the tube at weird load angles for 20 minutes. I took it out and still couldn't push the rod down with my hand. My struts are 8 years old, with a lot of abuse, and they are still like new.

Make sure your manifold, adapter, TB's and filters will fit into the engine bay. The space fills up fast. My TWM setup barely makes it.

I don't think it is from water. Everything looked like it was sealing and there was no leak path from the water passages. I still had great compression and no signs of a gasket leak although I suspect it would be coming soon. This head has about 1-2K miles since I last took it off. I am wondering if the copper gasket sealer reacted somehow with the aluminum.

Has anyone ever seen a head erode like this? The head has only been run for a few months. 4 out of 5 cylinders show some signs of this. Most of it is at the head gasket seal but some of it worked into the chamber. There were no signs of water leakage.

I'm not sure about your electronics, but it could be mechanical. I had the same problem. Turned out my distributer/oil drive shaft ate itself alive. The crank gear is steel and so is the shaft gear, if you push high RPM's niether one will give. Nissan comp made a brass gear for the crank to solve this problem on the race engines. If there are metal shavings in your oil, better pull it.