clarkspeed

I have the HKS now and it does have a large bore. It will give me the side clearance I need if I take it to the limit. Damn near 1/8" on the radius. If I make a square notch down to the top of the ring it's going to look pretty radical and will cost me a few compression cc's. Anyway, it's more than I can do with a hand grinder and will need to be milled. Are you running a stroker now? I've got a diesel crank on the bench I've been thinking about using...... My question is: What kind of RPM is practical for one of those things. That would determine my cam selection.

John, I bought a couple hunderd $ of stuff from Arizona and they threw in the cam sprocket at a considerable discount and free shipping with the other stuff. A surprise to me since they rarely discount so I bought one. I haven't installed it yet but it looks like it should work well. They machine out a ring gear from an existing sprocket and mate it to an aluminum pully. I don't endorse vendors, but I've never been disapointed with Arizona products or service.

Yes, 35 is stock and 38 oversize, L28. Sorry about the brain damage. I think things will fit but I need to notch all out to the head gasket and down to the top ring. What I didn't realize was that it needed to be cut square to get the maximum amount of material out. A typical unschroud angle grind cut will not work. If I get it milled out it will look strange to me. I've never seen this amount of material removed before.

Does anyone have any experience running a 38mm exhaust valve in a L6 head? I just built up a new head and decided to throw the 38's in there since I needed new valves anyway. I am running a high lift cam which throws them right into the cylinder walls. I know I need to "unschroud" the block to get a fit but it looks like a lot of material to remove. Curious if anyone else has gone through this before.

Send me you e-mail address and I will send you an Excel spreadsheet you can use. I ended up with TPS load sensing and disconnected the MAP. I have some numbers that should get you in the ballpark. You really need a wide-band O2 sensor like the Inovate LM-1 to dial it in precise.

3" doesn't give enough back pressure so stick with 2.5" unless you have a monster turbo. I run a Dynomax UltraFlow combined with a short dynomax race glaspack under the car. I love this set up. I prefer the "straight thru" muffler designs over baffles, loops, supertraps, etc.

ummm, not to be a pain in the ass, but 1g acceleration equates to approximately a 9 second quater mile... Only if you can maintain it.

I've ridden the Top Fuel ride twice now. It is a blast, very realistic. My wife loves it more that I do!

Baffles are a must. I'm over 1g in all directions. Sometimes, on rare ocasions, in the Z axis too!

I would go for that if it had decent baffles

Arizona Z makes one for the L6

If used on the track, consult your rulebook for legality. I prefer ATL or Fuelsafe. They are the best. For street, I don't know any one stands out. You get what you pay for. The foam acts as a baffle.

It's a trick I learned from another racer. It's only a slight angle change so it doesn't seem to hurt anything. Probably adds a little bump steer but it makes toe setting a breeze. I mis-quoted earlier, run a poly bushing on the front and the adjustable bushing on the rear. You can set the toe without jacking. I have no idea how I ended up with one pair. If they do come in sets of 4 maybe you can split with someone.

If you only need to adjust toe, you can buy one pair and install one in the front of each arm.

If your timing marks look good then you should be alright. I assume you have advanced the cam to compensate for the reduced deck hight since the marks line up. The only risk is the tensioner jumping out of the housing. If this happens you will have trouble. I think the "How to Modify Nissan OHC Engine" book covers some tricks to limit the travel of the tensioner.

Search for threads on this site. I'm running a set from a Mercedes V8.

Grab a 75 and simply port out the casting tits that protrude into the outlet bores so the inside is round. Also port the inlet to fit a bigger TB. Flows pretty good then!

I think my springs are in the 250-275 range if I remember correctly and car weighs around 2450 empty. Springs are just a little stiff for auto-cross work, a little soft for hard track work, and torture for street drive. Just the right compromise for me. I run Carerra's and love them. Non-adjustable, but it's one less thing I need to worry about. Mystrut nut came loose at Sebring and the thing slapped around in the tube at weird load angles for 20 minutes. I took it out and still couldn't push the rod down with my hand. My struts are 8 years old, with a lot of abuse, and they are still like new.

Make sure your manifold, adapter, TB's and filters will fit into the engine bay. The space fills up fast. My TWM setup barely makes it.

I don't think it is from water. Everything looked like it was sealing and there was no leak path from the water passages. I still had great compression and no signs of a gasket leak although I suspect it would be coming soon. This head has about 1-2K miles since I last took it off. I am wondering if the copper gasket sealer reacted somehow with the aluminum.

Has anyone ever seen a head erode like this? The head has only been run for a few months. 4 out of 5 cylinders show some signs of this. Most of it is at the head gasket seal but some of it worked into the chamber. There were no signs of water leakage.

I'm not sure about your electronics, but it could be mechanical. I had the same problem. Turned out my distributer/oil drive shaft ate itself alive. The crank gear is steel and so is the shaft gear, if you push high RPM's niether one will give. Nissan comp made a brass gear for the crank to solve this problem on the race engines. If there are metal shavings in your oil, better pull it.

I had actually bought a set of 40mm Webers and when I priced getting them tuned I backed off and sold them on e-bay. I knew they would be marginal for my engine, I think they had the 36mm chokes. I knew if I went with the TWM/FI set up, I could build any engine I wanted underneath and push button tuning is free. Did I mention my induction noise is louder than my exhaust? Very pleasing to the ear.

The Cannon manifold seems to act more like independent runners. 6 little engines if you will. Although the cross-over tube has a rather large id, >1/4", each runner "pulses" vacuum with valve lift. The only way to get a steady vacuum reading is to run all 6 together into a small manifold (1/2 id tubing, 1-2' long, minimum).

"However, if you sum the vacuum signals from all of the cylinders together, you will get a much better signal than your current setup does, especially at low rpm. " I had all the vac signals tied into a chamber when I first started tuning. It gave me a little boost to about 10"HG at idle, and around 13" at low speed. It was not enough for the SDS MAP tuning after 2 months of trying. When I switched to TPS it fell right in with about 30 minutes of driving. For track use and even most street driving, the TPS load sensing works surprisingly good. I could hook the vac system back up for brake boosting but I haven't had much of a problem since I idle at 1300RPM and yes the runners have the x-over tube to equalize. "the only vacuum signal I see is going to the brake booster" There is another vacuum line running to the FPR " shouldn't it be connected like this? Pump => fuel rail => regulator => return to tank" It is connected like this???