clarkspeed

Go buy a good used F500 car, go to school, and go road racing with something that is faster than all the production based cars out there. Tires last a season, suspension is almost "free" and freshen up engine rebuilds < $500. Or if your into circle track, try a Legends car.

I didn't like the 4:11 welded that was in there, so I switched to a 3:9 LSD. There were a few turns where it killed me.

Good stuff here. Thanks guys. This explains a lot. I tend to view shock tuning as one of the last things to optimize when setting up. Trouble is too many other things get in the way of focusing on that aspect. I am getting better though. I am trying to focus more on what the car is doing and how it feels rather than just getting through the turn. You never stop learning.

Good stuff here. Thanks guys. This explains a lot. I tend to view shock tuning as one of the last things to optimize when setting up. Trouble is too many other things get in the way of focusing on that aspect. I am getting better though. I am trying to focus more on what the car is doing and how it feels rather than just getting through the turn. You never stop learning.

V80z, here is a quick vid of your old car in action: http://cstephens.home.mindspring.com/Video/Z%20at%20Speed.mpg I wish I had a V8.

Katman you are tough on shocks and I respect that. However, I know of EP racers that placed well at the runoffs and national level FP autocrossers that run the GC's and speak highly of them. Although they did recommend a rebuild each season and admit price was factor in buying them. I suspect "junk" to you would still satisfy a strong regional competitor? As far as Carerra's, their rebound left something to be desired. I've only known a couple of others who ran them on vintage and ITS Z's. For a non-adjustable, I thought they were adaquate, but of course I've never ran a 10+ race schedule either.

Katman you are tough on shocks and I respect that. However, I know of EP racers that placed well at the runoffs and national level FP autocrossers that run the GC's and speak highly of them. Although they did recommend a rebuild each season and admit price was factor in buying them. I suspect "junk" to you would still satisfy a strong regional competitor? As far as Carerra's, their rebound left something to be desired. I've only known a couple of others who ran them on vintage and ITS Z's. For a non-adjustable, I thought they were adaquate, but of course I've never ran a 10+ race schedule either.

I'll jump in on this one also. I too have an entire suspension disassembled I plan to upgrade in the next couple of months for my race car. I've read all the posts on this sight and I'm in limbo for the struts I will choose. What I know: I've run Carerra's for a number years. Non-adjustable. Great shock. Very durable. Can be custom valved by factory. About $130 shock. The fast EP racers are running the Ground Control double adjustable. I think they are the cheapest double adjustable on the market at $300/shock. Can be rebuilt by factory.

I'll jump in on this one also. I too have an entire suspension disassembled I plan to upgrade in the next couple of months for my race car. I've read all the posts on this sight and I'm in limbo for the struts I will choose. What I know: I've run Carerra's for a number years. Non-adjustable. Great shock. Very durable. Can be custom valved by factory. About $130 shock. The fast EP racers are running the Ground Control double adjustable. I think they are the cheapest double adjustable on the market at $300/shock. Can be rebuilt by factory.

I've ran both headers. I don't think much is gained with the larger dia. tubes except in an all out race engine. The smaller header is fine for street use. Of note: I'm running the 1-3/4 right now. I've got to drop the header to get the transmission out. PITA

That's too bad. I think you should reconsider. No shame in letting that one sit for awhile. If you do decide to move it, let me know. Clark

Make sure the wheels have safety beads for street use. A DOT requirement. Lightweight road race wheels usually do not. Keeps the tire on the wheel if they go flat. Also of note: The 16" wheels incorporate a 15" center. If you have large brakes, 12" or better rotors, the Diamond wheels will not fit.

Looks good Rick! I wish I could "blow away" the rubber your planning for that thing.

I used a steel exhaust adapter for a couple of years in my old car. Tac Welded a pc of welding rod around it to hold the hoses. No paint, no antifreeze, just water wetter. I had it out last night. It looked terrible but there was no metal lost. I'm going to bead blast it and put it in another car.

Personally I wouldn't buy the Phantom. I put one on a friend's Saturn SC2 with the upgraded springs. Worked great for a few thousand miles, then nothing. I think it helps if you do some machining to get the spider gears perfect parallel. But I still wouldn't expect it to last too long. I think the plates create a wear surface which does just that, wears. Quaife #1, Clutch type #2, both work real good and last long time.

Here is a link to a thread in the IT Forum. It details how to build a remote digital video camera set up for < $250. Some of the in-car videos look pretty good. Both the Audiovox and Mustek PVR's have a built in screen that allows you to review the recording. In-Car Camera Option: http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5747&hl=

I find this post interesting. As mentioned above, the Arizona kit is awesome, high quality, and priced very reasonable for what they provide. However, without checking the validity of this engineering, I think this parts list could be acquired rather cheaply. The 11.75 rotor is the common circle track choice and is available in many configurations. Directional vane, straight vane, heavy duty, lightweight to name a few. Most are priced cheaper than stock replacements. Although machining does add cost. This set up might also fit inside most 15" wheels. I would be interested in seeing a detailed build up and if the parts could be sourced cheaper. I've been getting my Wilwood brake parts from Bherent's. They are pretty cheap.

Look for the large body Bosch. Mine is from a BMW I think. Warning: Different cars have different inlet and outlet fittings.

Sweet! Not as scary as those guys at Pike's Peak, but damn fast. It looked like he went 0-100 in about 4-5 seconds.

This is the first time I've heard this one. I just had a set rebuilt with the solid Brute Force joints. Anybody else feel the OEM Nissan are strongest? I will say the weakest I used came from Pep-Boys. Broke them in a mild street Z.

That looks nice! I'm in the early stages of preparing a stroker race motor. Did you use a diesel crank? What did you do to prep it? I was thinking about saving some weight there also.

Search for the spindle pin removal tool dude on this site. I bought one and it works!

Car looks awesome. Can't wait to see it run.

Great post. I especially agree with your first paragraph. Stock high quality components with the right linings and fluid is adaquate for most all applications. I used stock based components for years for hard core autocross and open track events. I've found the only negative is they require regular "attention" to keep them fresh. It's those fat sticky tires that make you stop, and I mean eyes popping out kind of stop. I now run the Arizona Wilwood kit on a GT prepared race car. They are almost overkill for a 140 mph track car. They last a long time. The stock setup could still get the job done, but I would need to freshen after 2-3 sessions and be generous with air ducting.

Don't spend your money on brake upgrades, spend it on making the set you have work like they should. Fresh aggressive pads/shoes, good calipers, drums and rotors within spec, fresh fluid. And don't forget, the quickest way to shorten stopping distance is get stickier tires!