clarkspeed

Who makes a $550 TIG machine? As an engineer I spent some time in the heavy manufacturing industry and was actually a part time (pretend) weld engineer. I've sourced many units and have always wanted to get one for myself but couldn't afford it. Most of the used units I delt with were over $1000. I've been away from the industry for awhile but I've never seen an entry level TIG for less than $1000.

As an update to this post, I'll call it............... ECONOMICAL RACE STRUT INSERT OPTIONS Bilstein (VW sport insert) non-adjustable - P30-0032 - $99 ea. Plus $70 for revalve at Shox.com Advance Design - double adjutable - $399 ea. - Ground Control Koni 8610-1437RACE - single adjustable - may need revalve - $160 - Summit Koni 8611-1257RACE - double adjustable - $256 Summit Carrera 32748 - non-adjustable - Still supported by QA-1? I'm still waiting on quote/answer. Tokiko - Not suitable for higher spring rates. For the price, I'm thinking seriously about the Koni 8611's. Any other users of this shock out there?

As an update to this post, I'll call it............... ECONOMICAL RACE STRUT INSERT OPTIONS Bilstein (VW sport insert) non-adjustable - P30-0032 - $99 ea. Plus $70 for revalve at Shox.com Advance Design - double adjutable - $399 ea. - Ground Control Koni 8610-1437RACE - single adjustable - may need revalve - $160 - Summit Koni 8611-1257RACE - double adjustable - $256 Summit Carrera 32748 - non-adjustable - Still supported by QA-1? I'm still waiting on quote/answer. Tokiko - Not suitable for higher spring rates. For the price, I'm thinking seriously about the Koni 8611's. Any other users of this shock out there?

I sat in about 10 seats at the PRI show 2 weeks ago in Orlando. I was also very impressed by the Ultra-Sheild. For the money it is hard to beat. It will be the next seat I purchase.

I can't resist chiming in here. Most conventional oils are very very very good. The last 50 years of adative development has done wonders. Has anyone ever seen an oil related failure? How would you know? I've taken valve covers off of 200,000 mile 70's V8's and couldn't tell I did because the crud mold looked like another cover. Car still ran fine. On the other hand, I've seen new engines wrecked on synthetics because someone didn't oil their foam air filter. With that said, synthetics are superior to conventional. They don't break down from moisture absorption or excessive heat. (relative terms here) Do you really need that extra margin in your vehicle? Are you going to neglect your oil, subject it to overheating, accidentally pour a Coke in it?

More info on oils: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102054

Go buy a good used F500 car, go to school, and go road racing with something that is faster than all the production based cars out there. Tires last a season, suspension is almost "free" and freshen up engine rebuilds < $500. Or if your into circle track, try a Legends car.

I didn't like the 4:11 welded that was in there, so I switched to a 3:9 LSD. There were a few turns where it killed me.

Good stuff here. Thanks guys. This explains a lot. I tend to view shock tuning as one of the last things to optimize when setting up. Trouble is too many other things get in the way of focusing on that aspect. I am getting better though. I am trying to focus more on what the car is doing and how it feels rather than just getting through the turn. You never stop learning.

Good stuff here. Thanks guys. This explains a lot. I tend to view shock tuning as one of the last things to optimize when setting up. Trouble is too many other things get in the way of focusing on that aspect. I am getting better though. I am trying to focus more on what the car is doing and how it feels rather than just getting through the turn. You never stop learning.

V80z, here is a quick vid of your old car in action: http://cstephens.home.mindspring.com/Video/Z%20at%20Speed.mpg I wish I had a V8.

Katman you are tough on shocks and I respect that. However, I know of EP racers that placed well at the runoffs and national level FP autocrossers that run the GC's and speak highly of them. Although they did recommend a rebuild each season and admit price was factor in buying them. I suspect "junk" to you would still satisfy a strong regional competitor? As far as Carerra's, their rebound left something to be desired. I've only known a couple of others who ran them on vintage and ITS Z's. For a non-adjustable, I thought they were adaquate, but of course I've never ran a 10+ race schedule either.

Katman you are tough on shocks and I respect that. However, I know of EP racers that placed well at the runoffs and national level FP autocrossers that run the GC's and speak highly of them. Although they did recommend a rebuild each season and admit price was factor in buying them. I suspect "junk" to you would still satisfy a strong regional competitor? As far as Carerra's, their rebound left something to be desired. I've only known a couple of others who ran them on vintage and ITS Z's. For a non-adjustable, I thought they were adaquate, but of course I've never ran a 10+ race schedule either.

I'll jump in on this one also. I too have an entire suspension disassembled I plan to upgrade in the next couple of months for my race car. I've read all the posts on this sight and I'm in limbo for the struts I will choose. What I know: I've run Carerra's for a number years. Non-adjustable. Great shock. Very durable. Can be custom valved by factory. About $130 shock. The fast EP racers are running the Ground Control double adjustable. I think they are the cheapest double adjustable on the market at $300/shock. Can be rebuilt by factory.

I'll jump in on this one also. I too have an entire suspension disassembled I plan to upgrade in the next couple of months for my race car. I've read all the posts on this sight and I'm in limbo for the struts I will choose. What I know: I've run Carerra's for a number years. Non-adjustable. Great shock. Very durable. Can be custom valved by factory. About $130 shock. The fast EP racers are running the Ground Control double adjustable. I think they are the cheapest double adjustable on the market at $300/shock. Can be rebuilt by factory.

I've ran both headers. I don't think much is gained with the larger dia. tubes except in an all out race engine. The smaller header is fine for street use. Of note: I'm running the 1-3/4 right now. I've got to drop the header to get the transmission out. PITA

That's too bad. I think you should reconsider. No shame in letting that one sit for awhile. If you do decide to move it, let me know. Clark

Make sure the wheels have safety beads for street use. A DOT requirement. Lightweight road race wheels usually do not. Keeps the tire on the wheel if they go flat. Also of note: The 16" wheels incorporate a 15" center. If you have large brakes, 12" or better rotors, the Diamond wheels will not fit.

Looks good Rick! I wish I could "blow away" the rubber your planning for that thing.

I used a steel exhaust adapter for a couple of years in my old car. Tac Welded a pc of welding rod around it to hold the hoses. No paint, no antifreeze, just water wetter. I had it out last night. It looked terrible but there was no metal lost. I'm going to bead blast it and put it in another car.

Personally I wouldn't buy the Phantom. I put one on a friend's Saturn SC2 with the upgraded springs. Worked great for a few thousand miles, then nothing. I think it helps if you do some machining to get the spider gears perfect parallel. But I still wouldn't expect it to last too long. I think the plates create a wear surface which does just that, wears. Quaife #1, Clutch type #2, both work real good and last long time.

Here is a link to a thread in the IT Forum. It details how to build a remote digital video camera set up for < $250. Some of the in-car videos look pretty good. Both the Audiovox and Mustek PVR's have a built in screen that allows you to review the recording. In-Car Camera Option: http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5747&hl=

I find this post interesting. As mentioned above, the Arizona kit is awesome, high quality, and priced very reasonable for what they provide. However, without checking the validity of this engineering, I think this parts list could be acquired rather cheaply. The 11.75 rotor is the common circle track choice and is available in many configurations. Directional vane, straight vane, heavy duty, lightweight to name a few. Most are priced cheaper than stock replacements. Although machining does add cost. This set up might also fit inside most 15" wheels. I would be interested in seeing a detailed build up and if the parts could be sourced cheaper. I've been getting my Wilwood brake parts from Bherent's. They are pretty cheap.

Look for the large body Bosch. Mine is from a BMW I think. Warning: Different cars have different inlet and outlet fittings.

Sweet! Not as scary as those guys at Pike's Peak, but damn fast. It looked like he went 0-100 in about 4-5 seconds.