clarkspeed

If your considering any competition, get a quality cell from Fuel Safe or ATL. You won't have any problems.

You can get a big high-flow cat pretty cheap from Summit. Another alternative is putting a cheap glass pack tube mufler in place of the cat. It will bring the sound down another bit.

Try some aerodynamic changes to beat that porshe. Smooth any sharp edges on the body. Windshield channels, mirrors, headlight covers, etc. Work anything that upsets the airflow.

Typically the pro valve goes inline with the rear brakes. Reason is you never want the rear of the car to lock up first under hard braking. As gas goes down, rear of car lighter, less rear brakes needed. I prefer to remove the stock valve and run each line from the MC independently.

The N42 manifold can stand quite a bit of porting. I've ported a few over the years for N/A cars and have had good success. You can take a monster amount out of the inlet and quite a bit out of the runners too. After porting and sanding, smooth it all out with a ball hone.

I need a set also. I want to run 12" wide wheels at some point. I could get some made if I had the molds. I know a couple of boat builders.

Be VERY careful running a DOT race tire below 28psi. Again, it's not going to put more heat in. I've found the Kumho's like 35-38.

Jeff, go ahead and get "signed off" at Chin. They don't have instructors at Safe so they require previous experience. You will love driving Sebring.

Diamond Racing 16" will not fit over them. BBS 16" barely fit. I doubt many 15" will fit.

260DET, your either not driving hard enough or have a bad pyrometer. Your tire is not that big. You've really got to use the slip angles to generate heat.

Jeff, look for Ken Jones in the supercharged 280. I think he will be at the Chin event this weekend also. I was going to go as an instructor but I'm out of town Saturday. I normally run with Safe Motorsports. Not as much "traffic".

Yes, zlalomz, Bill's car looks nice. Could be the nicest race prepped Z in the country. I ran 245's on the 9.5's with my old car. I rolled the fenders out for clearance. I think I posted how to do it one time. Wheels have a little over 5" BS and I have 2.5" coil overs. This car has fiberglass flares, 3" maybe, but not the xtra wide IMSA style. They fit easy.

Try SUPER MET-AL MARKER. Best damn marker I've ever used. Has a fine tip. Doesn't dry out. My machine shop loved them. Do a net search to find.

Bill got a new set of CCW's. Still 16x12 and Hoosier. He is now running the Reaction Reasearch body kit. Very very nice.

V80z, don't be too jealous. Trust me that the body and paint are not nearly as clean as the 77 you have. I'm on the 50' at 50MPH rule now. I'm testing at Sebring this Saturday to dial in the EFI and sniff out the suspension and brakes. May take some video also. List of mods to come at later date. I did pick up Bill Coffey's 16x12's this weekend with a set of Hoosier slicks. More fender mods may be in the future.

Eastwood paint works excellent on headers. Looks just like Jet-Hot if you choose that color. Follow their directions and get them hot about 24 hours after painting like the directions. I prefer to sandblast first to prep for paint.

Thanks for comments. Custome graphics by local shop, Graphic Illusions, in Orange City. Helps that he and wife are Z guys and own 2 tricked out Z31's. Wheels are CCW, 16x9.5, Picking up a set of used Taylor 16x12's today.

Trying a fresh style with old school colors. Work in progress.

I got a R200 gasket from CarQuest. Not sure how many stores they have or if they go out west. I am currently running Valvolene 80W-90 Durablend with a Quafe LSD.

The LM-1 has always seemed accurate to me, like at least within +/- .1 Which seems incredible. I found the LM-1 to be more precise than my computer (SDS). I kept trying to adjust fuel values to that last tenth of a point and either jumped over or under the desired value. That's when I ripped the LM-1 out and declared victory. I have noticed a slight lag at times, like correcting for a quick lean, you may have to add fuel 250RPM before the spike. One time I thought the LM-1 was drifting, I recal'd and got the same values. I ended up blaming the shift on weather and air density that my computer didn't compensate for. Perhaps a gauge R&R on the LM-1?

I have found the LM-1 to be very repeatable. I tend to recalibrate it frequently. When tuning my programable EFI, I eliminated all the peaks and dips by adjusting fuel values. When the LM-1 shows a dip, it's really there, and it will show up again at the same place most every time unless you correct for it. That's the advantage of a LM-1, you will never see the dips/peaks on the meter, you need the data log to "slow" things down to see it. Of course, I was never really sure if a 12.0 on the LM-1 was really a 12.0. I backed some of my tuning up with a pyrometer just to be safe.

I have the TWM ITB's. Cost wasn't too bad. I mounted them on an old Cannon manifold and made my own linkage, fuel rail, and air horns.You can look for my other posts on my ITB comments. Even with my set-up which looks awesome and sounds better than webers, I would say a single large TB with a well ported manifold is a better bang for the buck and will perform just as well or better.

A friend of mine and myself have run them on 9.5" rims for over 5 years, Hoosiers, Toyos, and Kumhos. No stability loss at all. Wider rims are not nearly as bad as too narrow. Then the slip angles get huge. From the Hoosier website: "For our radial tires a good rule of thumb is to take the tread width dimension (+-) 1/2 inch. This will put you in the optimum range for the tire. The tire will mount on a wheel outside of this range, however performance and wear may be negatively affected. If you find that your vehicle, or the rules, will not allow a wide enough wheel for the tire you think you would like, consider using a narrower tire. In most cases a properly sized wheel/tire combination will outperform a wider tire on a wheel that is too narrow. If you are looking at our DOT bias racing tires the tolerance is a bit broader. For our DOT bias line we publish a "measured rim" or "design rim" dimension. This dimension simply indicates the width of the wheel the tire was mounted on when the other listed dimensions are recorded. Bias ply tires are more tolerant of a range of wheel sizes. Typically, the listed rim dimension is a good starting point. The wider tires can range (+-) an inch without noticeable change in performance. A narrow (less than 6" wide) tire will tolerate (+-) 1/2 inch. In the Road Racing section of our product line the racing slicks are typically designed for specific applications where the wheel width is controlled. The tire is designed to perform at its best on the wheel listed in the "design rim" or "recommended rim" column. Once again, there is a tolerance for this dimension. The tire will mount on a different sized rim but, may exhibit unusual wear or stability outside of the recommended rim.

johnc is right on this one. It seems every week I am trying to talk friends out of spending a mint on their car to go faster. Safety and reliability are #1 and #2. They will both keep you coming back for more fun. I will add another hit for money well spent. 3-day professional driving school. Hit a good one like Skip Barber, Panoz, Bondurant, etc. Then you will know what to expect your car to do.

Alright, I couldn't resist this thread one any longer. "Is it too much horspower to drive?" was asked the great Mark Donahue about driving Porshe 917 Can-Am cars with about 1200 Hp, and still considered one of the fastest race cars of all time. "No, When you can leave a black mark down the longest straight of the track, that's when you have enough horsepower."