clarkspeed

This is the first time I've heard this one. I just had a set rebuilt with the solid Brute Force joints. Anybody else feel the OEM Nissan are strongest? I will say the weakest I used came from Pep-Boys. Broke them in a mild street Z.

That looks nice! I'm in the early stages of preparing a stroker race motor. Did you use a diesel crank? What did you do to prep it? I was thinking about saving some weight there also.

Search for the spindle pin removal tool dude on this site. I bought one and it works!

Car looks awesome. Can't wait to see it run.

Great post. I especially agree with your first paragraph. Stock high quality components with the right linings and fluid is adaquate for most all applications. I used stock based components for years for hard core autocross and open track events. I've found the only negative is they require regular "attention" to keep them fresh. It's those fat sticky tires that make you stop, and I mean eyes popping out kind of stop. I now run the Arizona Wilwood kit on a GT prepared race car. They are almost overkill for a 140 mph track car. They last a long time. The stock setup could still get the job done, but I would need to freshen after 2-3 sessions and be generous with air ducting.

Don't spend your money on brake upgrades, spend it on making the set you have work like they should. Fresh aggressive pads/shoes, good calipers, drums and rotors within spec, fresh fluid. And don't forget, the quickest way to shorten stopping distance is get stickier tires!

It's a pure race car so jacking speed is of the essence and the car is very low. I was so damn tired of doing a jack dance around the car every time I put it up. I saw this on a race 510 so I copied it. Pipe goes through body and double wall into the little seat belt well. Welds everywhere I could reach. T-bar is 1" barstock and angle. Weighs about 15 lbs.

There is one other solution...............

You would be amazed at what you can get out of the stock EFI system with some "tweaking". It is tunable, just not very easily. Tricks include adjusting the AFM spring tension and potentiometer needle location. I've also added a variable resistor pot to the temp sensor to richen the mixture under all conditions. Higher fuel pressures and different injectors can also be used. The problem is it is trial and error for the most part. Stop, make an adjustment, drive, repeat. Using a wide band O2 helps. And of course, you will never get it as close as a fully programmable system.

Search e-bay for weber parts. I have a kit of extensive spares up for sale right now.

That sounds like an elaborate solution greenmonster. I simply bought a set of allen head cap scews from Lowes and threw them in, no washers. The clearances are so tight, I didn't feel a locking device was really needed. I've yet to see any loosen up. If I did, I would use some lock-tite to stick them back in. Are you NA or turbo? Air box? What size TB's? I've posted some of my impressions of the TWM TB's before. I will post some of the other things I ran into if your interested. Just wait until you tune them!! Here is a pic of my set-up although it's all been transferred over to another car now.

I concur with John's comments. Having used both, I lean toward the ATL as my favorite.

The 3 month/3000 mile change is a hold-over from a previous Millennium. 30 years ago oils didn't have anywhere near the additives they do today. That's why its common for OEM new cars to recommend 7500 changes. They still list the "severe duty" clause, but even that's not a problem if you keep the filters fresh. Synthetics are a whole other ball game. I did a research on synthetics in college and was amazed that the properties are at least 10x better for most specs. The most amazing is it's resistance to moisture. One drop can screw up conventional oil load carrying capabilities and f-up a gear set over time. Synthetics can absorb 100x more than conventional with no deterioration. I'll never use anything else in my boats. It's rare to find an oil related failure on a street driven car. That would take some serious abuse. Synthetics can provide some extra margin if you think you need it. Otherwise it's money wasted. I ran an Isuzu pickup for 5 years for 150k miles at 12k oil changes on synthetics just to prove it could be economical. I currently run synthetics on my street vehicles but I don't worry too much about when the oil change is due. I'll get to it "whenever".

I only use the Turbo bolts, Nissan Comp sells them as high strength. They have the circle. I tend to change them every full rebuild.

Where are you in Florida? The SCCA classes are covered in above posts. I will add HSR is strong in the south east if you want to go the vintage route. A 280 will only be allowed in the IMSA class though which is a lot of prep. 240's can run production. Another alternative is NASA. They are just starting up in Florida. I'm not familiar with their classes. The race director is a Z guy.

I've used the ultra-flow on an L6. I love them. Quiter than a Flowmaster without the "tinny" sound. I prefer the "straight-thru" style turbo muflers over all other designs. Very little back pressure, good sound dampening, low tone.

Florida is all that. The SEZ event in at Reynolds, GA is better than any cook out. And don't forget the Z Fest each March in Orlando.

Keep in mind that with a turbo, exhaust velocity is very important for maximum power. Selection of the proper cam is paramount. A good turbo cam will "pop" some residual cylinder pressure. I suspect a larger exhaust valve may help but it must be matched with cam.

That intake looks awesome! Should flow very well.

If your considering any competition, get a quality cell from Fuel Safe or ATL. You won't have any problems.

You can get a big high-flow cat pretty cheap from Summit. Another alternative is putting a cheap glass pack tube mufler in place of the cat. It will bring the sound down another bit.

Try some aerodynamic changes to beat that porshe. Smooth any sharp edges on the body. Windshield channels, mirrors, headlight covers, etc. Work anything that upsets the airflow.

Typically the pro valve goes inline with the rear brakes. Reason is you never want the rear of the car to lock up first under hard braking. As gas goes down, rear of car lighter, less rear brakes needed. I prefer to remove the stock valve and run each line from the MC independently.

The N42 manifold can stand quite a bit of porting. I've ported a few over the years for N/A cars and have had good success. You can take a monster amount out of the inlet and quite a bit out of the runners too. After porting and sanding, smooth it all out with a ball hone.

I need a set also. I want to run 12" wide wheels at some point. I could get some made if I had the molds. I know a couple of boat builders.