blueovalz

Glad you emphasized this. I found that the "industry" standard of balance was way too conservative in that the rears can accept more fluid pressure than was sent out by the factory. I was quite surprised by how much more pressure I could get away with, to attain a "balanced" system. The improvement in braking was just as surprising as well.

Took the words out of my mouth. Even so, there was a time when I played with the upper quarter scoop as a replacement panel for the quarter window, but chose not to go that route. Anyway, it looks like a design that will stand out. Any other angles?

Well Pappy, the U-joints are on the driveshaft and the half shafts (once you get under the car it will become obvious). BTW, your "thump" could also be caused by a separated diffential nose mount. Anyway, changing the U-joints is not a real hard job. Even those with minimal skills and tools can tackle this one. If you've got a vise and a descent socket set (use the sockets to push the U-Joints out (after the cir-clips are removed) you'll be in good shape. The only part of the whole operation the I considered a PITA was the fact that the outside of the U-joint housing is an irregular angled surface, which prevents one from easily using a large socket as a mandrel for pushing the U-joint through. Other than that, take your time and don't get in a hurry.

The memories! In 1978 I purchased a new 4-door 810 that I really did like. For $800 more I could have bought a new 280Z (still kicking myself). I ended up parting it out in '86 (after a dumb maneuver on my part that caused a collision) to a 240Z race guy wanting the rear end and some other parts off the car. If I only knew then what I know now!

Who needs coffee in the morning when you can watch this instead!!!!!!!!!

If the engine is still in the car, I could see leaving the crank alone (if you know the bearings are in good shape). The words "seem fine" would not be good enough for me, considering all the work you've already done. I'd have to go ahead and spend an extra hour and insure the bearings are fine by replacing them anyway (is the center bearing used as a thrust bearing?)

:biggrin::biggrin:

Yep, Ol' Owen did a great job of fabricating the custom hood vents and dam. Even the shameless plugs for HybridZ on the front bumper look good!

I did just that, two reversed scoops that in essence create a slight pressure drop along the "open" side of the scoop to draw air out of the engine compartment in an attempt to reduce under hood temperatures. It also allows convective airflow through the engine bay while in the paddock which also helps in reducing underhood temperatures. What I had to avoid though was getting this open side too close to the back of the hood and into the higher pressure zone at the base of the windshield. Moving these vents forward and outboard allowed the air to pass out of the vent rather than be nullified by this high-pressure zone.

The voltmeter wire could go onto any 12vdc source, which includes the heavy wire from the alternator going to the battery. When I wired my "one wire alternator" I was told that the idiot light circuit was necessary for the charge to work optimally (I do not know why, or if this is an absolute, but I went ahead and followed the alternator shop's instructions). So I did wire the idiot light wire off the alternator up to a small 12vdc light on my dash which lights up whenever the alternator is not charging (yes, I'm sure you're scratching you head on this one, but my alternator is driven off the driveshaft and my idiot light comes on at any speed under about 10 mph.

I commend you on your continued attempt to create a brace which is as effective as can be (being fabricated at home). It's always nice to see someone submit a design for review, and actually listen to any comments from the members. We may not have all the answers, but 9 times out of 10, this site will provide the appropriate information to complete any job, and do it well. On some forums, this may not lead to an improved product, but these guys on this site know of what they speak of, and the respect the've gained for this is by word of mouth, which is the best kind of recommendation one can recieve.

Great job(s). But what else would one expect from Dan and Owen! Oh; What style and diameter are your steering wheels. I'm thinking I need a 14" wheel that is flat and Dan's looks to fit the bill, so to speak.

I don't even know you guys any more! :eek:

I can't see any recent "close calls," and doubt there ever will be. But then again, I never thought I'd ever see a "good" retro of the late '60's Mustang either, so there is hope, but sadly, Nissan threw all their "Z" eggs into this one basket, and (for me) it don't cut it.

I'd say you've come a long way since the initial design you presented this group (in fact it's a lot better set-up now), but as was stated in the last few posts, joining the bar's ends together at the tower and the firewall, rather than several inches away from each tower, is a much more rigid solution that what you have shown so far. It does not appear that going directly to the tower "plate" will reduce accessability any more than what your current design has already done, but it will stiffen it even more. The points of attachment (e.g 3 point) making a triangle is what makes this simple design so strong. Once you've spread these points out (in your case you could say that you've got a 4 point geometric shape in the middle, which is then held in place with 4" of tubing on either side) weakens the concept of you desired goal. You've got 80% of it so far, so let's go the other 20% to make it "just right". Once you've done this correctly, the front should be fairly rigid.

That's what you call an "Oh-sh*t!

The SPG is beyond my meesly budget (and thus I cannot comment on it, being I can't afford one), but I like the fit of the Corbeau, and especially the price and weight. The one thing I do not like about it (the Forza, and Clubman as well) is the material used for the seat cover. It's very thin, and does not appear to be very forgiving in regards to snags and wear. I've had to be very carefull, in fabricating brackets, in regards to how I handle the seat.

This is part of the risk of farming out work. I'd keep a cool head about it and carefully explain your concern and need for the work to be done as promised (but he will smell BS if you say you need it by the deadline, even if you really don't) Even if the work goes over the promised end time, this won't amount to a hill of beans if the work is done correctly and how you wanted it done. This time next year you'll have it back home and this little "speed bump" won't matter.

Read and act quickly. The vinyl transfers are awesome! It says all that needs to be said. Here is a link to the info you need. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100305

I've got a full cage in mine and I finally decided on the Corbeau Forza. My issue with most aftermarket seats (with good shoulder support) was that the upper width was about 24" wide, which would rub the cage on the outside. The Forza is about 22.5 inches wide at the top, which is just narrow enough to fit. The Clubman is even narrower if needed. These two seats (Forza and Clubman) are fairly light and added no more weight than the Kirkey seats I removed. As Tim said, the back of the seat will be up against the main hoop crossbar, but I was not allowed to cut and bend it. Fortunately, I'm of average height and even with the seat back against the bar, I had to pull the pedals forward.

I remember once on Ebay seeing a 7" round headlights with 2 bulbs in it. One was the normal driving light and the other was a yellow bulb, which in a abstract way, could be used as a turn signal. Glare, when the headlights are on, was the only concern I would have, but I did not investigate them any further. I believe the OEM Z bucket would need to be modified to make room for the extra socket (above/below) the driving light socket.

It's been a while since I've had the parts in hand, but I've been working (on and off, mostly off) on the Porsche axles for quite a while. The 944 (Turbo) axles are close in length but still too long (there is a difference in length between the manual and the automatic, but whichever ones I did work with, they were the shortest of any Porsche axle made, and they were still about 1/2" too long) when you include the thickness of a 1/2" adapter plate on both ends of each shaft. What I think I've finally narrowed my parts down to was a custom length axle fit between two 930 joints. I chose the 930 joints because of their added strength (BIG!), AND mostly because the bolt pattern is large enough that they do not interfere with the Z stub pattern (the other Porsche joints are smaller and run-through bolts or studs would butt up against the Z stubs), which allows a thinner adapter on both ends. Another option with these parts is that the ZX turbo companion flange is extremely close in size to the OD of the 930 joints. With minor machining of the ZX Turbo companion flange lip, the 930 joint can be made to slip snugly into the lip of the ZX turbo companion flange. This would necessitate drilling a new bolt pattern in the flange for the 930 joints to bolt directly onto the ZX Turbo flange, but this would then eliminate the adapter on the outer joints. Again, I'm working off of memory here being this is kind of a side-bar project that has little priority at this time, but when I finish the interior of the BlueOvalZ, I'm going to complete this set of axles.

NO, no, no . That's not the hybridZ way. We "throw" ourselves into our custom workings much in the "leap before you look" time honored manner . Otherwise it's scarry, realizing what might be required if we think too much. Sorry, I've nothing to contribute at all to help you.

I tend to agree with Jon. It's almost like he's got the sizes transposed between the front and rear. I've come close to same size front and rear, but that was with different springs and 2" wider tires in back.

Great news! Glad to see this project still moving forward. Keep picture coming though.