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I have the TWM manifold and am happy with it. It has nice staight runners, is shorter than the Cannon, but longer than the mikuni. It was $400 complete with inkage and insulators, which were the o-ring variety and I didn't bother using them anyways. The only problem with the linkage was I had to buy a bracket to switch the throttle arm from the left to right side on the furthest carb out because the throttle shaft wasn't long enough.

Outside of the US, the 260 was produced until '79.

I used to remove the entire fuel rail and trigger the "suspected" injector with a 9 volt battery.

If the car was professionally done, it seems all too often people try to recoupe labor costs too.

Look familiar? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-5-1977-Datsun-280Z-Sharp-and-many-upgrades_W0QQitemZ4567984830QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ken Bonneau here in the Milwaukee region swears by his ITS 280ZX. He does pretty good in it and has considerable experience in S30 cars as well.

Mat, just wondering what became of this?

The cheapest route is probably the fiberglass ones from MSA at $150 ea. They've been criticized for their quality, but I had a set and was happy with them.

I did buy them and all I can say is they look to be real good. The cylinder head is still at the machine shop so I've yet to run it, but no worries. To anyone considering buying them, I say go for it.

This is going waaay back, but seem to remember guys removing and bypassing with a jumper, a larger resistor on the back of the stock tack.

Here's the page with the radiaor installed in an inline car: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html That looks to be a pretty good deal. They still use a hodge podge of hoses. The complete package for radiator, mounting brackets, and hose kit runs $270 on their website.

I did a little searching and there is info out there. With that said, the general concensus is regardless of which aluminum radiator you use, hoses will most likely have to be custom. I don't know what others did, but what worked best for me was using the blue silicone elbows with aluminum tubing. It's not the cheapest way to go, but the most convienient and best looking IMHO. You can get the elbow from Pegasus or Racer Parts Wholesale, and I'm sure other places. I have the Arizona Zcar radiator which from what I hear is a Ron Davis unit. It's very nice, I NEVER have any overheating issues on the track, and this is with a very healthy L28. This requires custom hoses as well. The outlets on are 1.5" and the ones on the motor are 1 3/8". I used 1 3/8" silicone hoses which easily stretched over the 1.5" pipe and fit nicely on the engine side. There's a few engine bay pics in my zdriver gallery if you're interested: http://zdriver.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3088

I agree with all points. I made the mistake of buying what I thought would be just enought to get by. It's a 5hp oil-less Craftsman, and am not all too happy with it. My next one will definetly NOT be an oil-less. It cannot keep up with air tools. I'm not sure about the CFM vs HVLP issue, but I didn't have any issues. I beleive my DeVilbiss HVLP gun called for 40psi at the inlet. The compressor was barely able to keep up. I can't tell you what CFM it has off hand, but it's not good.

Around here a bead blaster is understood as a glass media blaster. It works very well on any aluminum parts but not as good on steel or cast iron. Aluminum oxide works best for that. I do entire cylinder heads with glass media, but that's with everything removed including the cam towers. I say as a general rule of thumb avoid any machined surfaces unless you had already planned on machining them again. A couple layers of duct tape over any areas you don't want affected works well.

It should be noted the Hutchens Device failed SFI tests, and Nascar banned all use of them in January of this year. I went back and read the description of Racer Wholesale's piece, and it states "All approved helmets come with attachment points for the SRS-1 and have to meet Snell or SFI certification with the attachment points manufactured into the helmet" With that said, if it does meet SFI requirements, it would be a fantastic, low cost unit at around $200.

I thought I'd start a new thread on head and neck restraints. There's been alot of talk about this since the fatality at The Glen. I was wondering what's out there for the club racer? The only thing I can find is the G-Force (Racer Wholesale) setup, which looks good to me.

Chaparal was the featured car at The Brian Redman Challenge at Road America a few years ago. None of his cars were raced. There was a very large tent/display area with all his cars, and at lunch time Mr. Hall took the high winged can am car out for a few parade laps. My guess would be the same for Monterey.

I'm considering purchasing a really cheap, non-running car (non-Z), but this will require shipping it from CA to WI. Does anyone know of an affordable shipper?

I've found that's a sure way to snap them. If no precautions are taken and they're simply torqued off there's a really good chance they'll break. Heating them with the oxy torch works 90% of the time for me. Maybe MAP gas or Propane would work too, in conjunction with soaking them?

I don't have any experience with the Ultra Sheild, but I do have the Kirkey intermediate in my car and LOVE it. It is extremely comfortable. There's times where I could take a nap in it. I did have the Kirkey economy seat, and wasn't all too happy with that one and put it on the passenger side.

I'd say this decision must really be troubling you since you were up at 3:30 in the morning typing it! Why can't you do both? Life's too short, borrow the extra funds needed from somewhere, maybe a personal loan or even...a credit card, and get the Z on the road asap and then work on the Lotus? If you just get the Z going, it would be a load of bricks off your back. EDIT, I agree with the previous post too, just to get it going.

Their whole demeanor on that page rubs me the wrong way. They have a serious ego problem. What's up with "owned" written across all the photos below them?

Yeah, It would be a one time deal. The only way to "adjust" it would be to make a new bushing.

Ok, I searched extensively and to my surprise I wasn't able to find anything. I was paging through Honzowetz's book and cam across the section on offset camshaft spocket dowels for adjustment. I was wondering if anyone has tried this, and if so, how well did it work. I was thinking this wouldn't be that hard at all to do with some mild steel stock and a drill press. It may take a few tries to get it right.