SleeperZ

The early Supra intercoolers do not flow well. Get a Spearco or at least a new Supra IC from a 94 or later. It sounds like you are looking for quite a bit of power, so you will probably have to go to a stand-alone fuel management computer - then you won't need your MSD boost retard. Once you go standalone, you can install injectors such as 420cc or bigger without ECU issues.

Haven't heard of any 230 hp N/A L28 Zs that are more "streetable" than an equivalent 230 hp L28ETs. I hear a high hp N/A can be a bear to drive (I do lack experience in that field however.) I have 260 hp to the wheels in my turbo, and it is a complete pussycat around town...hard to imagine an equivalently powered N/A being more streetable.

I guess after winning that, you will need new tires, eh?

Nice - what are the specs?

The price is certainly right, but my concern with the MSD is (as was mentioned on another recent post) is the flow rating. 9-10 gallons per hour is not a reasonable flow rating - heck, the nissan factory regulator obviously flows at least 4 times that, so it is hard to believe the MSD would suck so bad. I guess I will call their technical support and try to get the skinny.

I question how effective the spray technique really is, regardless of the substance that is sprayed. What sort of temperature drop does your air charge get during a run? The IC has a large thermal mass, and I don't think you could cool it significantly during a 5-15 second blast. Admittedly, you could pre-chill your IC before you run a 1/4 at the strip, but this would work only with the N2O. With water you'd be dripping up to the line, and get removed for wetting the track.

Get it at Summit: Ripper

Seen it at the Supra forums They truly have no respect for Hondas. Personally I have nothing against them, and I wouldn't like to see this turn into a Honda bashing thread.

I am planning my MAF/injector upgrade. I intend to remove the sensor wire from the MAF and install it in a 3.5" intake pipe. This will let in 40% more air for the same MAF reading. Then I will install the browntop SVO injectors (40% more fuel than stock). This may work with minimal adjustment, but any fine tuning I need to do, I'd like to do with an adjustable FPR. So who is using an adjustable FPR that is reasonably priced, has a good adjustment range around the stock pressure of 36 psi (ie: goes lower and higher), and will regulate at flows up to 50-60 gallons/hour? Is this one overkill? Aeromotive TIA

According to the description, the regulator is adjustable from 36 to 45 psi, with fuel flow of 9.2 to 10.5 gallons per hour . Does this sound extremely low? If the flow is exceeded, it seems like you may not be able to regulate pressure anymore....especially at low rpm or cruise where you may be bypassing 90% of your pump flow capacity. Any thoughts?

Is anyone else confused by what this guy says? LOL a car out of the showroom running stock 11's and 9's fot what not even 20 g's **** if it was like that eveyone would have an si. LOL RX7MAN get you facts straight. Or maybe you were stating their 0-60 times I HOPE if not LOL! Of course he's being sarcastic, sometimes it's hard to tell by reading

In addition to your extra socket, long breaker bar with cheater and pole to keep the hub from turning, don't forget a heavy slide hammer. That is essential to pulling the stub once the nut is off.

Certainly not if it's stock. Get a turbo or 2+2 flywheel, and get a good heavy duty clutch for the turbo application. I am using a Centerforce II at that hp level without any problems. If I push it more, it may get weak on me, but so far so good.

I have a "ripper" shifter. The stock mustang outer boot fits well with a stock mustang knob. I was using a 300ZX inner boot, but that won't fit over the raised bit in the shifter, so at the moment I have nothing for an inner boot.

I'm not sure if you are talking about the same Audi intercooler I've seen... The Audi IC I'm familiar with is a dual pass design like the Saab 900, and as a result is completely inadequate for a Z, given engine displacement and airflow requirements. Just measure the cross-section of the airflow 4" x 3" = 12 square inches!!!! Factor in the fact half that area is fin, you can't flow 300 - 400 cfm through that without a SERIOUS pressure drop. IMHO, sell the thing on Ebay. Don't waste a minute putting it on a Z.

360hp and 440 torque !!! Wow! Congratulations!

I got mine at Summit Racing. It's not in the catalog, but only now is most of the ARP stuff being listed. Just call them and ask for a specific application - they will supply it for any.

Uhh, 78Z? 77Z? http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=000741 Same thread?

I've used the Mityvac for bleeding brakes. It's a good tool, but it's still the wrong tool for that. I infinitely prefer the Russel Speedbleeders - they work so much better, there is NO comparison.

I have a P90A. Which passage are you talking about?

It sounds like they were not properly treated after refinishing - a serious problem.

The question remaining is... Can your ECU handle it? Factory ECU - not without radical changes. Stand-alone ECU - easy.

In theory resurfacing should work just fine. Regrind the surface to the same specs, harden the surface to the same spec, you should be good to go as long as you take up the material loss in the lash pad and restore the rocker geometry. Had I known of this option, I would have bought them. Instead I got soaked for $300 on turbo rocker arms.

Study the wiring digarams VERY closely. Folks have fried Z31 ECUs plugging them into ZXs - there are wiring changes that need to be done forthat swap, yours may be similar.

With me in my '78 at the strip I have been as light as 2710 with 1/2 tank. I weigh 160.