SleeperZ

I've had fun playing with this link. Ray Hall Turbocharging HTH

What can I say? A cheap nice looking classic car with power/weight and reliability - doesn't get any better.

I've not heard good things about the Dual Friction clutch. I am running a stock 240mm flywheel with a Centerforce II clutch to the tune of 250rwhp, with no slipping at all. I think the Centerforce pressure plate is a good design with more clamping force at higher rpm, very useful for drag racing a turbo, as that's when you need the clamping - the torque may peak at 3000-4000 rpm, and power is climbing rapidly at that point.

Thanks, Mike C. One of these days I'm going to learn how to read more thoroughly...

I've 250 hp to the wheels, and I use an electric fan. I've got the Permacool from Summit, 14" I believe. The only time the motor temp creeps up on me is stop and go in the summer, and then it only creeps up to 200 or so, 100F out on the road. I don't believe the overheating is due to the power level. Are you making the power all the time? No, most of the time you are probably putting 20-30 hp to the wheels. Especially a turbo engine with a stock cam - if you aren't on the boost, you are only making stock power. As a matter of fact, I can turn my fan OFF when road racing it, as the air flow through the radiator is enough to cool it at HIGH power and medium speeds.

I think Nissan recommends 90 weight gear oil for the T5 in the 280ZX, which is what I use. Am I wrong?

On the other hand, you can do 12's lots cheaper, but perhaps less reliably. The JWT 300ZX ECU with 420cc injectors, a good intercooler, and a bone stock motor will get you 12s, and high 11s with slicks. It all depends on where you want to spend your money.

I think your difficulty will arise trying to get the bar off the studs on the diff. You will need to drop the back of the diff down so you can get the bar ends off the bolts attaching it to the chassis.

These injectors have the same body as ZXT and SVO injectors. A little tip modification (the plastic tip is a little too big around), add a hose on top, and you should be good to go. I'm not sure if the lower resistance will create a problem for the driver (SVO and ZXT have 2.2 ohms resistance, the RX7 has 1.8 ohms). I'm betting it won't make much difference.

The power you make depends on the air you jam into it. Stock boost will not get you 300hp. You need an intercooler, and a way to fuel that hungry puppy. With stock injectors and an intercooler you can get 250hp from that setup easy. 300hp is possible, but I would not push it without a good engine management and bigger than stock injectors.

From what I've heard, never having one go out on me, the only thing that kills them is the shift forks being slammed. I've had a Nissan unit go out on me before, but I've slammed the $hit out of the T5 I'm running now with no complaints. And I just recently put in a B&M ripper shifter with hard stops to prevent overshifting, so hopefully it will last a while longer.

Heat soak? On an oil pump? Somehow I doubt a cast pump would be any different than an aluminum one in that regard, especially given the pump is located nowhere near the exhaust.

LOL! No way is my kid gonna drive a nicer car than mine.

That's a new one I've not heard of.... How the heck does the engine run when you block off the carb air inlet?? So you have a vacuum leak somewhere else, how would the engine get fuel to keep running? I'm guessing it's air flow through the venturi that supplies the fuel - block the air, you stop the fuel?

That's an excellent deal. I'd jump on that one too, given the opportunity.

Wow, someone is actually selling that? I know I've seen pictures of it before, and at a price of $0.00, how can you go wrong?

Stock L28 turbo motors don't "need" an intercooler either, but adding one sure allows for a buttload of boost.

Hehe, that's a wrap folks. Seal it up and dump it into the Pacific now. Always a fun topic - I enjoyed the first, and this one was nearly as entertaining. Good info, no name calling or bruised egos. Now on to cam shaft discussion.....uhhhh, maybe not

When I had my performance turbo cam installed I had a minimal amount of head work done too. I had the opportunity to install a larger exhaust valve, but my builder commented on the fact that since I was running the stock bore, a larger exhaust valve would be significantly shrouded by the cylinder wall. He had a flow bench set up with a junk P90 and said he got better results flow-wise by simply unshrouding the stock valve instead of installing a bigger one.

True, my friend. I don't live in the most restrictive part of the country, but in Colorado they just check the emissions (safety inspections ended here in about 1975). As a matter of fact the only piece of emissions equipment they check for here is the catalytic converter (the federal model Zs never came with them), and my lack of EGR was never detected.

That rocks, nice going.

My hybrid is a T3/TO4B with a V trim, either built by Turbonetics or assembled with parts sourced through them (I bought it through Jim Cook Racing). I paid a little too much for it, and I've not heard rave reviews about Turbonetics, but I've no complaints about the reliability or the performance (been running the same turbo for 5 years now - no problems).

Seems to me there are MANY variables that can account for this difference, and unless you are running 10:1 compression, I can't believe head design, excepting port flow differences, could make any difference whatsoever. Just questioning though, as I've never run a high compression L6.

I'm sure there is a truck application using a TO4, but the turbine housing wil be too big for the manifold and slow to spool. By no means is this a bolt-on affair, and it may not boost your performance. BTW, the 300zx will bolt on with a wastegate housing swap, and it has water cooling, but it is the same turbo as the 280zx performance-wise.

Hey Lockjaw, if you don't mind,what muffler are you using? Noise level? TIA