SleeperZ

You are correct. I didn't understand the context of your statements. I agree you should not try to boost more than 12-14 psi on the stock fuel system or you will run into reliability issues, especially with the stock turbo.

What stock 280ZXT engine are you talking about? The last time I ran 20psi on a stock 280ZXT engine, it blew a headgasket! Maybe what you meant is that the stock internals are capable of handling this amount of boost if you have the proper engine management and turbo using 100+ octane fuel. That's about the only way for any L engine to survive that amount of boost. Ian I'm not trying to start a war or anything, but I want to make a point clear here. Just because YOU blew a head gasket at 20psi doesn't imply all L28ETs will do the same thing. A small amount of detonation at 20 psi will certainly blow a gasket, but if your ignition timing is not out of whack, and you are fueling it and cooling it properly, factory gaskets will survive. That is a fact, I've seen it done repeatedly (on PUMP GAS - 91 octane), and I will be doing it myself this spring and summer. Admittedly, all my observation and experience is at 5000+' of elevation, where 25 psi boost is really like 23 psi at sea level. I don't think that invalidates my statements though. No offense meant, but I want to stress the point that it is detonation and lack of thermal management that breaks engines, not boost.

I use the Z31 computer and MAF in my 280ZT, with a modified 280ZXT harness. If you want to avoid wiring hassles, just use the Z31 wiring harness. The Z31 pump is an in-tank model, and I don't believe it flows any better than the stock ZXT pump. I am using a used Bosch pump I've modified that flows 50% more fuel at 60 psi, and I can sell you one for $60 shipped. You can also adapt the throttle body without much trouble - just cut the shaft short and rethread it for the Z hardware, use the Z31 TPS and a 1/2" spacer and it bolts right up.

No, as a matter of fact, he never cracked the head off the block out of the junkyard...

As long as you get the proper restrictor, any size line would be sufficient. I would think the line should not be used as a restriction, just as a method to deliver the oil. By the way, where is the restrictor located in a factory stock line? That's what I'm using now even though it's been necessary to bend it slightly to fit the upgraded turbo..I may want to replace the hard line with a flexible stainless line, but not without knowing where the restrictor is.

Yes, I've been looking at the AEM universal unit as well, but $175+ is a ricer price

Alex is correct. The Z31 ECUs will not tolerate larger injectors like the 280ZXT ECU. The flapper curve can be adjusted, at the expense of intake restriction. The MAF hot wire on the Z31 cannot be adjusted to compensate for larger injectors. The computer cannot even come close to compensating larger injectors, as the O2 sensor is used only to trim the fuel while cruising, and will have ZERO effect on idle and WOT conditions. I will keep you up to date on my quest for larger injectors with a Z31 ECU. Currently I am going to hack up an MAF and install the sensor element in a 3.5" mandrel bent pipe, in combination with the 370cc injectors. I will be using a custom fuel rail and an adjustable FPR (I may need to drop below the base pressure of 36 psi to make fine tuning adjustments). The air measured in the bigger pipe will be 40% less than the actual air, and the fuel flowed by the ECU will be 40% more fuel actually delivered. This will get me in the ballpark, and I will perform all fuel ratio tuning with a wideband O2 sensor and fuel pressure adjustments. If anyone has any comments or questions, cough it up.

Aeromotive 13301 This can regulate from 20-65 psi with the high pressure spring, and has common 3/8" NPT ports so I can use cheap 5/16" hose barbs. I also need some adjustability below 35 psi, as my scheme for using bigger injectors on a Z31 ECU will need to be tuned using fuel pressure. This is because the MAF curve is not adjustable like the 280ZX flapper.

Shane has run 23-25 psi with a T3/TO4 hybrid turbo, upgraded fuel system, and a JWT ECU. That's the most boost on a stock engine I know of.

what are you talking about? 30 hp, 15 hp? i just want some hoses that will hold up to high heat and high preasure, therfore i said race hoses so someone would know that i needed some durable hoses, i also do autoX in my car on occasion so i need something good He's yanking your chain. Use stock stuff, L28s all run the same temperature and pressure, regardless of performance level.

Who said the 350 in a ZX couldn't be done??? Post a link, let's go get him!

Sounds awesome John! Please post your Bandimere plans (if any) and I'd love to come out and see you run...maybe line up against you!

The chain tensioner is not adjustable. Oil pressure sets the tension. If you didn't ensure the chain was pulled up and tight in the front cover when you removed the chain from the cam gear the tensioner has popped out. You have to pull the front cover and replace it. Sorry!

Personally, unless you are only going to boost to 9 or 10 psi, you can get away with it. Just remember, the more you shim it, the less flow you get through it. At about 10-11 psi pop off, you may not be able to limit boost very well through it, at least that's my experience. If you have some faith in your boost controller, just remove it and plug it up. No more problem.

That's what I'm using on mine, for my power level and street-ability, I couldn't be happier.

MO, if you want fuel economy, you will find it difficult to beat a fuel injection setup. You will probably not go too far wrong with a carbs either, provided you can tune the (small) primaries to run lean and back it up with some responsive secondaries that will give you good airflow at WOT.

I'm pretty sure you are correct on this one. The spring rate and the flexing of the suspension and chassis should determine the natural (resonant) frequency. All the shock will determine is how much damping will occur. Critical damping is what we want in that case - the fastest response to a surface change without rebound.

I am using Porterfield race pads for the road course. In an autocross, you might consider the street version of Porterfield, as they work well at colder temperatures as well as fairly high temperatures. Mine are optimized for high heat, and this past summer they NEVER faded.

Restriction is the name of the game. It is necessary to create turbulance inside the core in order to transfer heat. It's a very touchy balancing act between restriction and efficiency. I think that is why no one can say for sure what design is "best" without actually running it and measuring the performance. For me, that means any intercooler I buy will be from a company that knows what it is doing, and not just experimenting and piecing it together.

In my experience the cheap a/f gauge will tell you rich or lean, just not how rich or how lean. If you smell rich at idle and the gauge tells you lean, you may have an ignition miss. If there is oxygen in your exhaust, it will register lean regardless of how much actual fuel or CO in the exhaust as well.

As far as I know there are no real problems with the P90A, except if you have a lifter fail - they are hard to find. Don't be dismayed if you do have a P90A, only some of them had hydraulic pivots.

Yes, you can replace the distributors as long as you use the oil shafts as well. I could be wrong, I've been a while off na's as well, but I'm 99% sure the front covers are identical between turbo and non.

When the ignition is turned to "on", the pump should run for a few seconds, then shut down until you crank it. The pump could be frozen, but check the wiring first. I wouldn't try to free a frozen fuel pump, just spend the $15 or so and get one from a junkyard.

200kw rwhp is extremely easy ot hit with just about all the engine swaps spoken of here (200kw is 300hp) An RB swap, a 1JZ swap, a 2JZ swap, a VG swap, even the L28ET can EASILY put that power to the ground. From all the sources here stateside the RB26DETT can easily hold it's own with the 2JZGTE, stock internals to stock internals, and both can put down 400kw to the wheels with appropriate tuning. No way is 200kw to the wheels approaching the limit of RB stock internals.

If you are taling about the cam towers, I think they are 8mm bolts threaded into aluminum. Better limit the torque on those to about 15ft/lbs. I heard the "Rebuilding your L series motor" book had the wrong value in it, so be careful.