SleeperZ

I'm fairly sure you cannot compensate for a fuel pressure increase or decrease with the fuel temp sensor. The issue here I think is the pressure regulator itself is being affected by temperature, not mixture temperature differences that can be compensated wuth fuel temperature information.

Search in the FI section. There have been recent discussions on FPRs, and depending on what you need, there are inexpensive options. If you don't need adjustability, there is nothing wrong with the Nissan regulator. MSD makes a cheap adjustable one.

Looks like a great float vehicle. Obviously it's a joke poking fun at the serious rice boys...Imagine arriving at a car show in that

Reliably? I doubt that. Is there anybody here that is truly running that kind of boost on cast pistons that is still on their first set? Personally, I wouldn't recommend running much more than 12psi on the stock cast pistons. I think Shane is carrying his weight around here and he can answer to that. Lockjaw as well. I run 15 psi on stock injectors (to the tune of 250-260 rwhp), and haven't broken anything yet. The point is, and I've said it many times, so have many others, BOOST AND POWER LEVEL DO NOT BREAK TURBO ENGINES, DETONATION BREAKS ENGINES. All of my experience to date speaks to this. I'm sticking to that story.

Do a search on this, and you will find the question asked and answered multiple times. In short, the stock turbo can be pushed to 18psi, but is hugely inefficient at that level. The stock ZXT ECU can also fuel for that with a mild injector upgrade (370cc), but driveability is terrible. But answers to these questions and many more can be found in the archives.

That is soooo weak - charging $3K to re-assemble it. Who wants a bucket of parts shipped? - that increases the likelyhood of shipping damage, and not many people are "qualified" to put it back together. I could be wrong but you could just add the "assembly fee" to the reserve and sell a complete motor and more people would be interested. Good god that would be a sweet motor to run, but good luck adapting it to a Velo Rossa!

Yes the longer tubes will decrease the CFM rating because the CFM rating is pressure drop limited. The CFM rating is the flow at which you get a certain pressure drop - for Spearco it may be 1.5 psi. But what the longer tubes WILL get you is a greater temperature drop (better IC efficiency), so if you have the headroom on your turbo, you may be able to tolerate it. I think thats one reason the Honda turbo folks can even use the long needle-like ICs on their applications - they use a ridiculously big turbo like a 60-1 that is efficient at a high pressure ratio, and they get the cooling needed from the IC to run boost in a 10:1 compression motor.

Mike C, that is a good question about the exhaust duration being shorter than the intake. My Schneider turbo cam has more duration on the exhaust than the intake as well (270/280). Donna, you are quoting durations here, not lift!?!? (just checking)

That totally amazes me!! I find it hard to believe, but then again my Toyota truck with a 22RE and a flapper would run like crap with a K&N filter in it, runs great now that I went back to paper element.

TBS - you can do 12's with the parts in your signature, on street tires. You may need 17-18 psi boost, and fuel it properly, but you have the components already. The only thing you may want to upgrade is your intercooler. I do not recommend raising your compression - you will just increase the risk of detonation at the 15-18 psi boost level.

Hehehe, just have to make light of the comment you attribute to your mechanic - I hear the same thing too - T5s suck. I like mine, it's not behind a V8, but it seems to be a good transmission. Lots of folks say they suck, but that's what is used in 90% of the applications out there. Easy to say it sucks, but why does everyone run it?

THE ANSWER IS NO ONE SELLS A SUPERCHARGER KIT BESIDES JCR. You will need to fabricate one. A supercharger from a GM or Ford 3.6 liter V6 would be a good choice as you could spin it at the same speed and get plenty of airflow.

A stock L28ET will handle nearly anything you can throw at it. They will routinely support 23-25psi STOCK. The key is NO DETONATION. Intercool it and supply enough fuel, and supply it well. There is no real limit on boost - you may need to build the engine to handle the horsepower and the peak cylinder pressure, but the only mods necessary to run 11's involve thermal management - IC, fuel. High performance coatings on the pistons should reduce the risk of detonation, forgies are nice, but I'm not sure how necessary this is, not for 11s. What is rod and crank coating? Magnaflux them and stress relieve them, maybe balance them, but a coating? IMO, head studs are a good thing , but O-ringing does not seem necessary when a metal head gasket is available. Search the archives on this subject of "how much boost" and you will find it beat to death.

Norm, with a turbo motor it becomes necessary to powershift to avoid losing boost. Don't listen to the people that say the BOV or compressor bypass will keep the turbo spooled during a throttle-lift -- it won't, and you've got to build the boost up again before you come on your power curve. I'm sure you've seen the AWD eclipses leap-frogging down the track -- looks silly, wastes time too. I'm curious about the crankshaft breakage you experienced powershifting. Do you think the crank stress could be made worse if you are running a high performance n/a motor (high compression) or a light flywheel, stiff clutch...? You seem to be the only one I know of that has had this crank problem -- yes, from what I hear you have more 1/4 runs in a Z than the entire population at HybridZ put together, but I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Sorry about hijacking the post - it is still on topic isn't it??

Intercool it, if possible.

It is expensive horsepower to stroke the L28. We are talking at most 300cc more displacement (10%). So if you want every last shred of power, go ahead, I hear you can feel the difference. It is so much cheaper to add boost and fuel to the L28 without even cracking off the valve cover, most folks don't see the necessity.

I've always loved the 2JZ-GTE conversion. It has demonstrated huge power potential, and comes with an excellent 6 speed behind it. I don't know how easy the swap is, and the exhaust routing could be tricky, but no more so than the GN swap (both route on the right side). Just my fantasy swap...also the RB26DETT is a good one, but in the states it's very expensive.

My opinion is all manufacturers certainly have built some lemons. I feel that the US auto corporations have increased the quality of their cars, but what I think it comes down to is how they treat the customer AFTER the sale. I should immediately disqualify myself from this discussion now, as I've NEVER bought a new car. I don't want to drop my hard earned $$ on a machine that's not been tested, and I especially don't want to take my chances on a manufacturer who has had recent issues with customer support. Give me a good selling model with a history of reliability, and I will buy one that's been in the field for a while without issues

Just curious, what do they charge for that IC?

The cutting wheel has very limited wear, and is very fragile. It would not cut much sheet metal before disintegrating.

I am by no means a professional or even a good road course driver, but I love my Eibach progressive springs. The ride height is slightly lower than stock, and slightly stiffer. I run 60 series tires on the street and it's not harsh at all. My Z rated 50 series tire I use on the track is another story on the street. That said, I love the car on the street, and I have no complaints about the handling on the track - it holds the corners and seems very predictable. Is it optimal? - most probably not, but I like it. The rest of my car's suspension is close to stock - just urethane bushings on the steering rack and swaybars (stock), the strut spacers in front, and an aluminum TC rod kit are the only mods, besides Tokiko heavy duty strut cartridges. I think as long as you are smooth in your steering inputs and make sure to transfer the weight in a controlled manner, the progressives will respond like a normal spring (by the way, only the rear spring is progressive with the Eibach - some other kits I hear are the opposite??) My 2c.

http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html

I also saw one on the road a couple weeks ago. I was way disappointed. I really disliked the lights in the rear - that lower light looked out of place angled in from the side wrapping around. And the front fender lines viewed from the rear seemed strange - the hood line is very angular, sort of like a Cougar (hate that car!), but the fender line bulged with a curve under the hood line - they didn't seem to match. Oh well, I've always bought used cars, maybe if it grows on me, I'll buy one in a few years...

I read a story on the internet about a bigger guy who could only fit into one or two of GMs biggest cars. He had innumerable problems with a brand new car, and his story of how he tried to get satisfaction curled my hair. Even if GM has quality issues, it wouldn't matter to me IF the manufacturer made the effort to correct the issues. From this guy's story, I would hesitate to buy a problem-free car from GM.

You could have a shorted idle switch on the TPS - it may have corroded while sitting. The ECU will not fuel for any load if the idle contact is closed.