SleeperZ

I drove my 280Z stock from 1990 (when I bought it) to 2000, 10 years, never had a single issue or failure in the stock EFI including the relays. I did eventually replace injectors, but never lost a sensor, and the only electrical issue I had was the headlight connections. No joke.

Depends on what engine management you are going to use. If you have a stock Nissan computer, S130, Z31, you need the switch type from a Z or ZX, but if you are going to install a MegaSquirt, you need the 240SX type.

That's a shame, such a nice car. I think the RB25 will be more than happy in a Z32.

I don't think the turbo setup is any less reliable, and I got great mileage on my car running a stock engine with the Z31 EFI -- 29mpg averaging 70mph in the Colorado mountains. But all told, an N/A Z is a lot of fun, and the stock EFI is as reliable as it gets.

I'm not attached to it, and will never use it, so how does $10 plus shipping sound?

I have one too, no TPS, but in otherwise good condition.

It will work fine, but just so you know there are no performance advantages; it does look nicer than the original unit though.

This car is not a daily driver or operated in winter, purely track use. I'm thinking at high rpms and temperatures, 30 weight may not be cutting it; I'm just thinking out loud.

Actually I already run an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge. I can't say for sure what the value of the pressure was at higher RPMs, but I know it wasn't real close to zero, as I have it rotated so 45 to 60 psi is close to the top. And I do have oil temperature metered as well, from the sensor in the pan, and it typically goes to 220 or 230, maybe peaks to 250F or so.... However, maybe I should be running a higher viscosity oil. I don't know where I got the idea I should run 10W-30, but perhaps I could run the same oil as I run in my turbo diesels, Rotella 5W-40, fully synthetic and a bit thicker....

I do have a stock cam, if I do decide to go this way. I'm curious though, the current cam was not a re-grind, and if it can be reliably repaired I could save quite a bit of money. Is there something about this cam you would not trust at this point? I have done a closer inspection, and I have to agree with JohnC and others there is a general problem of under-lubrication. Some of the lobes are blueing, and another is just starting to show signs of wear I think could turn into another flat lobe. I've never noticed an oil pressure problem, and I am running the ZXT auto oil pump, and none of the lobes seem particularly dry. But it's undeniable there is not enough oil getting to the lobes given the evidence. I don't know where to start in figuring out why. Worn bottom end bearings, not enough to notice a drop in pressure....it's a low miles factory re-build I found in a scrapyard and looked perfect when I had the head off. I don't know.

My VW Beetle with a diesel and automatic transmission got 37mpg until I found the Ecomodder site. With driving technique adjustments and minor tweeks (filters, thermostat, tire pressure) on the car, I now average 45mpg. These guys are for real, just like most people posting on HybridZ, it's just the goals are different.

To install the spray requires cam tower replacement with parts from an E series head, correct?

I emailed Delta Camshaft, and they said they can repair and re-grind the cam, and supply reground rockers for $3 each with a $3 core. Total is less than $150. Doesn't sound bad at all. Aside from the potential lubrication issues, and possibility of new lash pads, does this sound like a viable option?

I see that Web Cams offers a variety of re-grinds. Is that something that can be done with a used, but otherwise good cam shaft, say from my old stock turbo head? If so, can the original rockers be re-surfaced instead of paying MSA $38 per rocker? My cheapest option at this point is to replace my head with my spare P90, stock cam. I really don't like the stock cam and how it runs out of breath before 6000 rpm, unlike the Schneider or the original 240Z cams. So maybe that factory turbo cam could be re-ground to something that spins nicely to 7k...

Did some searching on a crazy idea, can't find any information at all; there is probably a good reason. But anyway, assuming the rest of the cam is OK, can the one bad lobe be repaired so I only have to replace one rocker? Just askin'

Oh, on second look, I see the blueing on number 1 exhaust, not on the worn lobe....I suppose that is another indication of insufficient lubrication?

I have run this head twice, once on the original block, and now on the current block. I don't know when the lobe first failed, either the first install or the second. I've always run Mobil 1 synthetic in it, and both times I installed it, it was well lubed with assembly lube. But I never thought to ever run ZDDP additives. The valve clearance was actually ok, the back side of the lobe was normal. The first picture I see the blueing indicating overheating/lack of lubrication, but the second shot, close up, the exposed metal under the heat-treatment is shiny silver. So I'm not sure if the blueing is not a photographic effect or not. The unworn part of the lobe looks exactly like the rest of them. So if it's not a heat-treating issue (seems unlikely on just one lobe), there could be a plugged oil passage in that lobe. It also would be unlikely that number 2 intake valve is limited in it's travel, although that condition probably would not have lasted past initial startup without breaking. Just thinking out loud. The head was originally built with all new components, valves, springs, pads, rockers, etc.... I appreciate the discussion. When I decide to rebuild this puppy, I'd like to keep the valves and springs, and just replace the cam, rockers and lash pads. Am I correct in thinking I cannot get a replacement cam with more lift than the Schneider at .460/.460 without different valve springs? Oh, and I have no idea what blank the cam was manufactured from, it came from MSA more than 10 years ago....

Although I had my P90 professionally built years ago, I have less than 60-70 hours on this cam. I was checking and adjusting the valve clearances, and this showed its ugly face. Schneider turbo cam (Stage II from MSA, Lift .460/.460 Duration 270/260.) Intake #2 only has a rocker-wide wipe on the high part of the lobe, currently about 1/32" deep, and the clearance was good. All the rest of the lobes seem fine. But one is all it takes. Any successful installs of this cam? I'm sure it's statistically possible to get a cam with 12 good lobes....

I don't think a colder thermostat is going help with overheating, but I see an opportunity for a fully ducted fan setup with all that room to the engine. That's what solved my overheating issue on the track.

In theory, the MAF can measure air either before or after the compressor, but I would hope you are intercooled well enough to protect the MAF from the hot air resulting from a heat-soaked IC. And most MAFs are not necessarily designed to hold boost pressures, it would suck if developed a leak or blew out.

200hp is cheaper to achieve with a turbo engine swap. Nothing wrong with that delicious NA high rpm sound, but for that power level you can get a factory turbo engine plus an intercooler and more boost to get it.

I dug around my garage last light, and found some old O-rings for factory 280Z injectors, more like "cylindrical rings". But they work, with the right OD and ID. That makes it easy.

That could work, a 3/32" part with 3/8" ID, 9/16" OD. The OD is slightly larger but the round profile should seal it...

I got some 440cc supra injectors and a fuel rail, but the seals to the manifold are too large to fit the machined recess in the manifold. Which O-rings are people using to seal this? I measured the ID of the manifold at 0.54" (about 14mm) and the OD of the injector tip at 0.37" (about 9.5mm). It seems any place that sells injector seals needs an application, and does not supply dimensions.

I've beat on my BW for years and haven't hurt it. It's been in a Z that runs 11s and I've run 12s with it.