SleeperZ

The cam seems way too retarded to just install the rockers and test it. Seriously, I'm starting to think this particular cam was indexed wrong when it was ground. Compared to my old grind, with the cam gear notch lined up with the thrust plate and the dampener at TDC, this thing is 20 degrees off. The 0.05" intake (at the lobe) opening is more than 20 degrees AFTER TDC, where my old grind was 8 degrees ATDC. The duration is slightly less, so even with the closer lobe centers, it's going to run like crap if it doesn't contact the valves. I'm thinking I will ignore the index mark, and degree the thing as advanced as I can without going more extreme than my original grind. It looks like I will have to skip a tooth or two on the cam gear to do this. I'd really appreciate feedback from some experienced L28 cam degree'rs, this is my first shot at this....

Looks pretty sharp.

Agree, too many red flags. Sounds like scrap.

I don't have the cam card. I am trying to determine whether the cam is suitable for a slightly higher revving turbo engine for track use. I still have a stock turbine with a TO4B compressor, and I liked the power curve of the Schneider. Since this cam is looking remarkable similar in lift and duration, I am thinking I will use it, but with the standard cam advance, this cam is retarded relative to the Schneider. I degreed the peak of the exhaust at 84 degrees BTDC, so what is that separation? Cut crank degrees in 2, for about 102 degrees separation. That seems narrow; the Schneider is spec'd to 114 degrees separation. My peak measurements are pretty sloppy however. Anyway, I am tending towards advancing this cam, to more closely match the old one. It sounds like I should set up cylinder one with rockers and pads with the proper clearances and wipe, then make the measurements at the valve? Any tips or clarifications on what I am trying to do?

750hp for autocross ?!?! Yikes. Sounds like a donut machine.

I'm interested in that measurement as well. No way am I going to 16" wheels anytime soon, too much in my 15" wheels and tires.

Alright, I am playing with dialing this cam. It seems very similar to my old Schneider cam, with these specifications: Camlift .310 In/Ex Duration @ .050" camlift 240 In / 230 Ex I have measured the lobes of my pre-owned mystery cam to this: Camlift .293 In/Ex Duration @ .050" camlift 220 In/Ex The old cam stated it had 114 lobe separation, and to degree the intake peak to 112. I haven't measured the exhaust peak yet, but the intake was at 121, retarded 9 degrees relative to the old one. Should I run the cam at the number 1 hole on the gear, which is dead on TDC, or advance it as much as I can to get the intake peak closer to the Schneider? Yes, different cams, different grinders....

Very nice, what engine management have you installed?

Congratulations and welcome back!

Upgrading may not be as cheap as you think. A reground cam is going to require resurfaced rockers and new lash pads. On the other hand, if the rust is not too bad, you may be able to clean up the lobes and run it. And if not, a stock N/A cam should work fine with the stock height lash pads you already have; be sure to get the rockers that were used with the cam as well, and use them in the same locations.

Sounds like a pressure relief valve on the intake to control boost creep. Recirculate if you are using a MAF.

No way are you going to measure a pressure drop across 2 more feet of 2.5" tubing. No way.

Very interested in your results. I did the port match to the turbo, but that was it. Since I don't boost much over 15psi, I haven't seen any creep issues, but once I get my motor back together I should have the capacity to run more boost.

That's simply gorgeous! I hear you about tinkering with cars Mike, I'm sick of it myself. I just want build it where it works well and drive it.

They are, however the ID measured exactly the same as the stock unit I removed. PITA to remove, I heated the new unit up and it tapped on over the key and drew it on the rest of the way with the bolt.

This does help. I just installed my damper last night. I heated it up with a low temperature oven (200F), and installed without too much trouble with the engine about 40 degrees F. Had to mark the keyway on the outside of the damper flange so I could line it up. Then once tapped over the keyway, I used the crank bolt to snug it on the rest of the way. The old timing pointer on the left side is useless now, not to mention too far away. I have a timing pointer similar to yours above, but it will not fit on my timing cover. The hole spacing is wrong. How many different pointers are there? I'd like to use a factory pointer, but maybe I'll have to settle for just the wire pointer.....

My tailpipe extension looks like a truck weed-burner. Without rear bumpers, it really sticks a ways out and to the side, long enough to trip over. That actually helped with the fumes, so I don't care what it looks like either.

Any sort of modification of the original form will affect how it functions, but it seems that the suspension and wheel modifications required to get the right stance are so extreme they seriously impair the function of the vehicle. What are the benefits?

I was not considering a cam regrind. I'm not familiar enough with camshaft metalurgy, is there a resurfacing or polishing to help the cam mate to the rockers? Supposedly we re-surface rockers like we hone cylinder walls, to retain lubricant to assist the break-in of the surfaces. What you seem to be saying is the used cam should be good to go. I think re-surfacing the rockers may help (?) even though they seem to be in excellent condition, no grooves or discernable wear save the wipe pattern. I am open to suggestions, I want to get some good use out of it even though I am currently a cheapskate and want to use "pre-worn" parts.

I've read so many camshaft threads, my eyes are swimming. But I found nothing on the question I have. I'm still tossing around options on replacing my wiped Schneider turbo cam. All the old rocker arms are in excellent condition, even the one that wiped the cam lobe. And cockerstar sold me a used camshaft that may be an excellent substitute for the old one. So if I decide to install this camshaft, what sort of prep does it need? I will probably have my rockers resurfaced, but what about the cam surfaces? Can any local machine shop do whatever may be needed, or does it need to ship off to a cam specialist? Thanks for the help.

Amazing shoe-horn job!

Of course it is worthwhile, but boring/stroking and otherwise custom building an engine is fairly expensive. In that case, you might consider starting with an L28 block.

That seems odd. What are the conditions during cranking that could affect the unit? Is it low voltage, sometimes batteries can drop to 10V while cranking. Or is it poor combustion getting too much fuel on the sensor?

I may have remembered my car's weight incorrectly, it's been 7 years since I drag raced. I have full interior, no cage, and the crash bumpers are removed. It is probably around 2700lbs without me in it... Good thing too, as not long ago I was messing with the remote starter and rolled the front tire over my foot. No damage.

Yeah, that flywheel looks like it has been recently resurfaced already. I've got one of those electric impacts, and it's barely good enough for wheel lugs. I'd use a good 3/4" breaker bar with 3' of gas pipe; it should pop those right off.