SleeperZ

"Come on Yolanda what's Fonzie like?"

I have 11 turbo rockers in good shape and a set of non-turbo rockers as well. I can see no difference visually; same type of pivot, cam lobe surface, lash pad surface. Maybe there is a structural or mass difference.... Definitely not talking about hydraulic rockers, I've never seen one, so I don't know if there is a third or the "turbo" rocker is intended for the hydraulic P90A cams...

I've searched, it seems like it should be a common question, but I couldn't find the answer. I know the rocker arms have different part numbers, but what is the difference? N/A arms are 1/3 the cost.

It may be a challenge to build a single harness to accommodate everyone's needs as there may be significant differences in crank triggering, ignition output, and control options. But perhaps you can add significant value by offering a base harness, I don't know as I have not yet put enough thought into my own future MS build.

I was planning on making my own, but I am interested to see what you come up with.

I doubt the BAE kit will be able to use your old EFI computer, so you may need to go to an aftermarket computer to effectively manage your fuel and ignition.

I just sold one without the cam, tower or rockers in good used original condition for $60. They come up sometimes complete in same condition for $100 or a bit more.

I'm curious if that fluttering when you get off it is just your BOV, or if you are stalling the turbo. It sounds like you might be surging, but I'm not sure.

Retard the distributor gear by a tooth.

I toasted a lobe on my cam, and wrecked one rocker. I need another, and perhaps a spare that are resurfaceable, this one I have is scored too deeply to repair without shipping it out. I'd like one or two from a turbo at a reasonable price, $10 each or less.

I got 30mpg with my 280Z with a stock L28ET (using the Z31 ECU) cruising on the highway at 70mph. You only get bad mileage when you tap the horsepower.

Don't think of it as "MPG", think of it as number of laps.

If you are milling it to correct for warpage, make sure you mill the top surface too, to keep the camshaft true.

When the only parts you can get at Pep Boys are spark plugs. What make was that again?

Check into Jeff Winter's shop, he's been running Zs for years at Second Creek and now High Plains. He knows Zs and carbs inside and out. His website.. http://www.rallye-sport.com/ He left his contact information over on Pelican parts... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/358719-technical-wizard-grady-clay.html

I don't know if it was specifically for a normally aspirated engine, but it has next to no overlap. If you compare the durations and lift, this cam is milder than my old turbo cam. All I really wanted was a reasonable lift and performance above 6000 rpm, and I think this will do it. I am advancing it a little, resurfacing my rockers and checking the wipe, then buttoning it up and moving on to Megasquirt.

It will work, but you may damage the cam or the tower. No way will it hurt the head bolts.

Got an answer from Bill: Sounds interesting....

Looks like you have your work cut out for you, sounds like you will have an incredible vehicle when you finish. I just have to ask though, with all the work into it for an RB26, why VQ?

If the bleeder doesn't point up, you will never purge the air out.

Found the cam grinder online, forwarded these questions on, maybe I can get the info from the source.... http://www.gude.com/

I don't believe my Turbonetics hybrid turbo has an O-ring on the compressor housing. If it's machined properly, it shouldn't be necessary, the flow is far more than a minor leak can affect.

If your cam has holes in the lobes, it's for an internal oiling system, and that's what you have. The external system has no oil holes and the spraybar.

I degreed this mystery cam a little more accurately, and it's not as bad as I thought. Mystery Duration IN 306 (0.008" clearance) 220 (0.050" clearance) This has a much softer ramp up. Duration EX 297 (0.010" clearance) 230 (0.050" clearance) Schneider had 240/230, more intake duration. The main difference in the cams it seems is the lobe separation, I calculated 105 cam degrees, the Schneider in comparison states 114. What is striking to me, at 0.050" lift, the intake opening of the Mystery cam is 25 degrees ATDC, the same 8 degrees of overlap to the exhaust closing, but almost 30 degrees later. Gotta wonder if the exhaust valve is going to hit the piston it's so late. The intake with stock timing degrees to 120, 8 degrees retarded relative to the Schneider, if I understand the specification. I am thinking this cam was ground for a high RPM motor; I'd prefer to keep the RPMs less than 7k (stock L28ET, new dampener). A bit of advance may not hurt, perhaps up to 8 degrees matching the intake lobe peak of the intake to the Schneider (112 degrees). I appreciate the insight TonyD, good suggestions on "dynoing" the engine.

Yeah, that Tomei adjustable cam gear would be nice. A dyno would be nice too, but I have no way to control fuel at the moment, being in-between fuel management computers right now. I will be installing MS3 and using maps from Zmanco as a baseline. So I just need to get close to an appropriate cam timing right now, unless using this cam is too risky, then I can just install the A grind I have, along with the spraybar and towers. It's all on the extreme cheap right now, I just want to make sure I'm not wasting the small amount of money I've already thrown at this.