SleeperZ

I have an untouched P90A (non-hyd) that I could pilfer, but I may take you up on that offer as these have quite a trench in them.

That's not much heavier than my '78 S30. I weighed in at 2960, so the car weighs 2800lbs.

I don't expect to run this cam for very long, so I guess I will not worry about it. Hopefully my rebuilt head with it's Schneider springs and existing installed valve height (factory valves) will not force me to a different lash pad when I swap in the used A grind cam and matching rockers. I will find out for sure when I check the wipe pattern. Thanks CamH.

Very nice, thanks so much.

Wow, that's a really cool idea. I can't offer much to the conversation, as I have zero familiarity with Ford diesels, but I know my old '83 with 617.952 is a real slug. FWIW, you may have issues using an injector designed for direct cylinder injection in the Benz IDI. Maybe just issues with startup; the pre-chambers have a ball inside designed to vaporize the fuel as it's injected, and a DI injector may not spray it properly.

With more boost and more fuel, a stock L28ET can do 12s. Lots of people have done it. Of course there are some important details left out, like good tires, a decent engine management and a stout clutch.

Bump for information on the lash pads. Obviously the slotted part goes up, but when swapping over I did not preserve orientation. Is 180 out ok, and if not, can the appropriate orientation be achieved, maybe with a wipe pattern?

At least it has a cast impeller.

I want to keep the coil current from circulating all the way back inside the car. It's a good way to create electrical interference, and the factory coil has a perfectly good driver.

I am planning a MSIII install into my 280Z to control an L28ET with factory coil (for now, may go full sequential later) and distributor with Z31 wheel. I want to keep the coil driver next to the coil so I don't have to run the coil current through the MS. Is the standard ignition output capable of driving the base of the coil driver of the 280ZXT coil? What current can I run without stressing the MS driver? If this isn't a possibility, I can go to a MSD type box or HEI, but I thought I'd like to go low budget first and upgrade where it makes sense.

The wheel replaces the existing wheel, it just drops in. You may be thinking of a standard reluctor-type distributor in the N/A L28s. That requires an entirely different setup, this wheel is not the right solution for that.

Oh, that sounds like sweet music. Very nice!

Neither. The wheel drops into the '82-'83 280ZXT distributor, just like the wheel from the VG distributor. There is a member who has adapted a VG distributor to an L engine, but that is by far the more difficult task.

Wowza!

A hall effect sensor only picks up a magnet, permanent or electro-. You need a proximity sensor (metal detector) to operate a missing tooth crank wheel.

I am bumping this thread as it is relevant to what I intend to do to get my S30 turbo back on the track this spring with Megasquirt. Some of you know I wiped a lobe on my Schneider cam earlier this year, so I want to swap another cam in to get the motor working without a cam break-in to worry about while tuning the MS. I pulled an E31 head from a scrapyard engine, and the cam looks good. There is some bearing surface wear, but I'm hoping that doesn't create an immediate issue -- the lobes on the factory cam all look good. So I am going to swap the towers, spray bar, rockers and the "A" cam to my P90. I've done quite a bit of searching and reading up on these cam swaps, but I still have a couple questions, and of course any comments on this swap are welcome. The lash pads are of course worn, and I have kept them with the associated (and numbered) rocker arm. Assuming the wipe pattern is centered on the rocker arm, is it ok to reuse the lash pad or do I need a new one? If I can re-use the lash pad, does it matter if it is installed 180 degrees around (I didn't document orientation)? I suppose I can mark the lash pad surface like the rocker surface and ensure the pattern stays within the wear area... Tell me if this is false economy. I am just trying to get a valve train up and running with a new fuel computer, and then I intend to re-do the valve train properly, perhaps with another set of externally oiled cam towers once I have a reasonable tune. I don't want to worry about a cam break-in without a reliable tune. And I am also interested in feedback from the OP on any aspect of this swap, or anyone else regarding used cam swaps and/or results of the 240 cam in a turbo engine.

I have a fuel rail for the barbed injectors I am getting rid of. I made it myself out of the finned aluminum extrusion -- you can have it for cheap, especially since you are in Colorado. It has no provision for a cold injector though.

Doubtful? No, it's been done with regularity. Slicks, clutch, T5, stock L28ET, 420cc injectors, IC, T4 turbo, JWT ECU. Easier to do 11s with a turbo setup than a V8 up here in Denver.

That's not an intake, that's the coolant port.

I realize your car is N/A, but the Z31 stock injectors I thought were all the same flow as the 280ZXT, turbo or non.

The '81 turbos had the crank sensor on the crank, not in the distributor.

I don't see what injectors you are running. If you have stock injectors, the JWT is undoubtedly tuned for higher than stock flow, and 290cc (stock) injectors would be understandably lean. Oh, anything over 14:1 is way too lean. I would think you'd need an AFR in the mid-12s for maximum power.

I think your answer is no. You already have larger lines than factory 5/16", are you sure they are 3/8"?. You can do 300hp with the Walbro alone, mounted by the tank. Fuel line upgrades on the Z typically are for 240 conversion to fuel injection, and the surge tank is used because the 240 tank was not baffled. If you have a fuel injected 280Z, you don't need anything special unless you are doing some serious racing or making power in excess of 400hp. You'd be surprised how little pressure drop you get with factory line running 60 psi from the tank. I ran some calculators and determined the pressure drop for these flow rates is less than 1 psi. The Walbro can deal with that.

I still have the stock fuel lines on my 280Z, 5/16". Put a good pump behind it, and you shouldn't have fuel starvation issues, at least to 350hp.

I have one attached to my spare tranny. If I have to use the tranny, I'd have to swap off the bell housing anyway because I had to modify my current one to fit my ScottieGNZ downpipe. In other words, I'd be willing to remove the un-modified bell housing and sell it to you if the shipping cost from Denver wasn't prohibitive.