SleeperZ

I responded in Bastaad's thread.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101213&page=2

Yes, look in the mirror. The reason you canot use boost pressure as a way to calculate power is DENSITY. Take the case of adding an intercooler, and compare it to the same engine without one. You can have the same boost pressure and make more power with the intercooler. I did it. My boost controller operates off manifold pressure; I added an intercooler without changing the boost controller and gained 0.5 seconds and 10mph in the 1/4. The reason why is more air at the same pressure because the air is cooler. That's why thermal efficiency in a turbo and an intercooler is so important. Take it or leave it, as you said, you can lead a horse to water...

Will do. And yes, I'd be very interested in finding out those specific small differences in the fuel and timing...I'm just not into digital electronics like I used to.

Yup, tell him to fix his torque converter.

I'm not sure what you mean. The dyno sheet and my time slips are real, and not that I'm a great driver, I get 1.9 second 60' times. Maybe because I run at 5800' altitude? I had a scanned dyno plot that was posted here, but now it's not here any more. It's been two years. It wasn't a "spike", this dyno session comprised 5 pulls, all within 10% of each other. Until I rescan the sheet, I'll describe it to you. The torque rises linearly from 150 ft-lbs at 2000 rpm to 400+ at 3300 rpm, runs flat to 4000 rpm then drops linearly to 275 ft-lbs at 5500 rpm. The hp starts at 60 at 2000 rpm and rises linearly to 270 hp at 3300 rpm, and continues to rise slowly to 320 peaking at 4500 rpm, then fades to 280 hp at 5500 rpm. Keep in mind, these are corrected numbers for 5800 feet altitude. I don't know if they reflect what the car will do at sea level or not, that depends on whether my injectors and ECU would support the airflow, but that should be a minor point as we are talking about my T3/TO4B V trim, stock head, engine and dispacement with all the intake (3-1/2") and exhaust (3") restrictions removed.

I just noticed the boost level you ran at, Bernard. A 60-1 compressor should be able to make that power at 15 psi, where is your system restricted?

Maybe his old plugs were bad and caused some noise to get into his tach, raising the displayed rpm....

The Z31s are a dime a dozen in the Denver area yards. I can extract the wheels without having to pay for the whole distributor. I can't imagine you'd have an issue using this part used....I'll let you know when I've got one. While everyone is thinking about the differences in S130 ECUs, what about the Z31 ECUs, specifically manual versus automatic for the turbo units? I now have an '86 Federal turbo ECU for an auto, and an '86 Federal turbo ECU for a manual...I may just switch to the manual ECU, but the automatic one has worked very well for a while now.

There may be a bit more effort in braking, I haven't spent enough time behind the wheel to tell if the vacuum controlled vents and such still operate properly. And I haven't really had the space to wind this thing out yet; as soon as I burn out the old gas with lots of added injector cleaner, I'll put it through the paces.

I had the cam installed about 5 years ago, ran it for a summer, then swapped in a cherry factory rebuilt engine I found in the U-pull-it (Sidewinder, in Denver). I sold the old shortblock, and only now re-installed the head. The cam is a Schneider 270/260, and I think the lift is about .460, but I lost the card on it. At 0.050" lift, there is virtually no overlap, but the idle is rougher; of course it is ground on a smaller base circle so there was significant geometry adjustment to install it. The slope of the lobes are much sharper, and I believe the springs are a bit stiffer. There has been no significant flow work other than port matching and a little relief around the (stock) exhaust valves. I admit I was a little unprepared for the higher rpm - I was used to the smooth torque from 2500 rpm, and not getting it, put my foot down. Hitting 3000+ on the city street surprised me, as it just pours on from there. I have not run it more than 5000 rpm yet, but at 10 psi boost it feels faster than the 16 psi on the stock cam. It certainly is not peaking where the stock cam did at 4500 rpm; I need to get it on the track and get a feel for this mutant.

Finally got it all back together today and took it for a spin around the block. The car's been sitting for 8 months. After I finished the last road event I had an exhaust leak and a dead battery. All the exhaust manifold bolts had loosened up on me and blown apart the gasket. Anyway I installed the ARP head studs and put on my P90 with a MSA stage 2 turbo cam. I've never run the head on more than 7 psi boost, and never with an intercooler and the 3" exhaust. Vacuum was low, 10" or so. That's the cam. It was a slug at low rpm, relatively speaking. I've got the boost controller at 10psi. First time I floored it, it creeps through 3k rpm, the boost comes on and it just goes sideways. The non-linearity of the acceleration is unbelievable, and it pulls incredibly hard under boost. Not sure I like it as much as a stock head, but it sure is fun! I've no doubt I'm gonna hit the factory rev limiter time after time, so I'll have to get a modified EPROM in the injection computer. It'd be real intersting to dyno this after some tuning... :D:D

That sounds awesome, nice bit of scrounging - I love a low budget project that kicks that much a$$.

Not to mention it's not centered. I still can't figure out why the steering wheel is on the right hand side in the engine picture, and where the steering shaft enters the engine bay.

Hi guys: I'm not getting much feedback from Subaru technical forums. I have a '98 Subaru with a hydraulic clutch. It grew harder and harder to shift, and bleeding it fixed it less and less. I replaced the master and slave cylinders, and bled the crap out of it, but it will not disengage the clutch at all. There seems to be a lot of slop in the clutch fork before the slave expands enough to start the disengagement. The clutch has never slipped in normal use on me, although it's seen some off-road use. Anyone dealt with adjusting and bleeding this clutch before? Is it possible the disc or diaphragm spring is worn to the point where it won't disengage or is it just a case of air still in the system? The car has 100k miles, clutch is original. Thanks for any help.

That's a 240? What kind of front end is on it? Pictures kind of dark, and it's hard to see the rear or top of the car.

I'm sure they work fine. I'm not sure what you are looking for though, the ECUs are quite robust, and a used one would undoubtly work, for a whole lot less money.