wheelman

You have them setup the same as I did mine. If I'd placed the spacer against the block as the JTR manual says to do they would not have cleared my headers. I don't think it really matters what order the spacer and plates are bolted together as long as they are on the correct side. Wheelman

Jon, Thanks for responding, I went back and re-read the thread linked at the top of this page (Ok, now it's at the top of the previous page) yet again and think I know why you always recommend the clutch type diff. I also think I've re-convinced myself it's the better way to go, quality wise and matching my driving style better. BTW: I attended a local Auto-X event this last weekend and there was another 240 there. It had a 280ZXT motor (estimated 200HP) with a 5-speed and an R160 LSD from a Subaru. The owner and I talked a bit and he plans to be at most of the local events this season (He's from Spokane). Unfortunately I ended up right behind him in grid so neither of us got to ride in the other's car but next event it will happen. I'll keep everyone here informed of how the Subby rearend holds up to the power of the turbo motor, might end up being a very viable, cheap LSD for 240s with the older R180s that have the bolt in halfshafts. You know Jon, you should come over to the dry side of the mountains for an event or 2. Much fewer participants and cheaper fees. Wheelman

I got into the PowerBrute group buy but it's starting to look as if they aren't going to honor the agreed to price so I'm evaluating these OBX units. I've looked at several other automotive websites where they are discussed and these are my concerns. 1. Tolerances: One guy specifically mentioned he had disassembled an OBX and a Quaife side-by-side and found the gear mesh tolerances and worm gear pocket sizes to be of poor control. 2. Axle removal: It was reported many times that axles had gotten stuck in the units. 3. Poor material quality: The metal of the OBX outer casing is not as hard as the Quaife units. Have any of you guys who've purchased these units noticed these issues? I saw some posts that said the negative aspects regarding the tolerances and stuck axles were on early production units and had been resolved. If this is true then these OBX units might be worth a try otherwsie I wonder how long they'll last. Quality issues aside, how big an issue will diff cooling be with either a helical or clutch pack unit? I have a stock 280Z long nose diff case with it's original rear cover, should I plan on adding a cooler or finding a finned cover? I don't race the car much, Auto-X about once a month and occasional street drives but no long duration road racing, at least not yet. BTW: I'm cheap, really cheap, which occasionally bites me, but I'm trying to make the correct decision on this without money being the primary factor. I want to get the best setup I can for Auto-X which might be the PowerBrute, if so please slap me upside the head and let me know. Wheelman

That240Guy, If you read the second post in this thread you'll see that the strock PCM has a 7000 rpm limit. The Painless computer is supposed to be able to go higher than that, but as jbc3 says you risk blowing the bottom end. I agree with you though, why spend the extra money on an after market computer when the stock PCMs are plentiful, cheap and very tunable with inexpensive software tools. Wheelman

Let me get this right, those are stock Corvette LT1 manifolds? I'm not looking to turbo my LT1 but it is good information to have if thats correct. Have you checked hood clearance? If so, will they clear? Wheelman

I'm wondering what air pressure he runs in those tires. Initial reaction: DAMN!!!! Wheelman

He's going to have a very hard time unloading those parts if he isn't willing to ship them. It's not like Estes Park Colorado is just on the way to anywhere. It's an interesting looking hood though, I might be interested if he was willing to ship it. Wheelman

I wouldn't try to use the LT1 PCM, it expects the timing signals produced by the opti-spark to determine when to trigger the injectors and the coils. Reproducing that signal train would not be worth the effort to use the PCM as it is not going to be as flexible as the Megasquirt system. You might look at using an LT1 or LT4 intake manfold though, they flow well and are built to accomodate the injectors. Not sure if they will bolt to Vortec heads without modification but it's worth doing some research. There is a company that mods them for use with an HEI distrbutor, don't have the link but it shouldn't be to hard to find. Wheelman

I guess I'm another one of those "computer guys", but I refuse to say IT. I actually work as an embedded programmer for a small company that manufactures handheld X-Ray equipment. No, we don't do dental or medical xrays, the equipment is used to analyze the elemental make up of materials. Metals mostly, in fact our unit can tell you the exact elemental make up of over 200 different alloys. I get to play with several micro-controllers and the associated electronics that control the output of our xray tubes and the detectors that receive the return energies from the material being analyzed. It's a very interesting job and I enjoy it, but our company was purchased by a German based instrument company last summer and it's been a real roller coaster ever since. I feel like Aux, burned out, I haven't had a full weekend off in 6 months. Our current project is coming to a close so I should have the opportunity to take some time off. Anyway enough whining, it's time to get back to work. Wheelman

Which car is it from? F-Body - 285 (Camaro, Firebird) B-Body - 265 (Caprice, Impala, Fleetwood) Y-Body - 300 (Corvette) Wheelman

Jon, Here is an old picture of how I routed the hardline I used. At the very top of the picture you'll see one end with a brass double flare to AN adapter and then a brass AN fitting. The adapters I got with the line from the NAPA store and the AN fitting from the same local hydrualic shop where I got the high pressure push in fittings. Hope this helps, if you want better pictures let me know and I'll see what I can do. I've redone part of this system since the picture was taken but the design is the same. I got rid of the kink thats visible in this picture and the tank has been replaced with one from a 2001 Camaro. POP, I wish I'd known that about the tubing cutters hardening the stainless line. I tried to cut and reflare a new section of the fuel line and couldn't do it. I thought it was my cheap HF flare tool but maybe it wasn't. I've had no problem with the smaller 1/16" brake line but the 3/8" was impossible to flare. Wheelman

Jon, I used a bunch of those brass fittings the MrFancyPants is talking about for plumbing the fuel system on my Z. As he says they are very hard to push into the correct size hose and will not pull loose. It's recommended that you lube them with a small amount of oil when inserting them. The high pressure hose is not much more expensive than conventional rubber fuel line and if you plan to swap in an LS1 later it's worth it to do it right the first time. I used a combination of 3/8" stainless hard line I found at NAPA that is double flaired and the high pressure rubber with those brass fittings. The hard line was a bit of a pain to work with but once in place can be ignored. I think I spent a little over $100.00 for all the parts of my fuel line but thats because I bought extra parts and did the fuelatank end twice. Wheelman

How much does the X or H pipe affect the volume of the sound produced by the dual exhaust? What impact will either have on reducing drone at middle RPMS? Wheelman

I like the idea. You might contact Alsil on this site about the possibility of using the crossmember he developed for the 302. The mounts are close enough to the same that it might work with minor changes. My daughter's mustang has one of these motors in it and I've been tempted to get a turbo setup from a T-Bird Turbo Coupe or an XR4Ti to throw on it. If it weren't her only mode of transportation we probably would have done it by now. Keep us updated if you decide to go forward with the project. Wheelman

I have a set of those on my 240. They ride OK, not to stiff, but lowered the car much more than 1" and the fronts are progressive and the rears linear. Not what I wanted so I will be replacing mine, in fact I've already ordered a coilover set from Ground Control. Wheelman

Deja, You might not have to rebuild it. Looking at where your shifter is now leads me to think you might be able to get the T56 shifter in the same spot with a little shifting of the motor. You are going with a T56, right? Anyway the console looks very nice, I hope you don't have to modify it too much to get the shifter in there. Wheelman

I have Tokico blue HP struts and their lowering springs on my 240Z. The springs are not terrible they just aren't what they are advertised to be, or should I say "NOT" advertised to be. When I bought them I erroneously assumed the springs were linear both front and rear. I didn't contact Tokico to verify this and when I installed them found the fronts are progressive and the rears are linear. This isn't what I wanted. They also lowered the car more than the advertised 1" but that can be blamed on the extra weight of the LT1. Anyway they ride pretty good until I hit any significant bump and then will bottom out. I just ordered coilovers so if you are interested I'll make you a deal on the springs. Wheelman

Hurray for me! Glad I could finally help someone else on this site after all the info I've gathered from it over the years. I remember working through which set of mounting bosses to use when I swapped my LT1. When I finally looked at the pictures it triggered the memory. Wheelman

California enforces emission laws on ALL cars they just don't require yearly smog checks on cars older than 1975. If you get pulled over in California and the officer does an inspection to find all the emissions equipment removed or disabled the fine is much larger than it would have been otherwise. Wheelman

You have bolted the mounts to the wrong mounting bosses on the block. If I remember correctly there are what looks like 2 different sets of mount bosses one with a single on the bottom and 2 on the top and one thats the opposite. You should use the bosses that have the 2 points on top (closer to the heads) and the single on the bottom. They look upside down because you've got the passenger side on the wrong ones. Wheelman

Mine runs great but is hibernating right now due to the lack of a working heater. It will go back on the jackstands shortly to receive an LSD and possibly coilovers. Have the LSD on order but haven't ordered the coilovers yet. Wheelman

Alexideways, I know what you mean about trying to use the hand control after having driven with a steering wheel, just not natural. TeamNissan, I was wondering more about the relative values for each suspension setting as they relate to each other on a given car not to reality. Example: I set up the 240ZX(?) in what we call the west coast setup (stiff rear soft front) and it drives totally different from the east coast setup (soft rear, stiff front). In another thread I asked about this and one of the suspension gurus stated that the east coast setup was more effective when driven slow in and fast out with the west coast being just the opposite. When I tested this in Forza thats pretty much what I found. So I started experimenting with other cars and found the same basic behavior. Just got me thinking about how much can be learned from these games. They are simulators with a given level of accuracy and making macro adjustments in the game might give a person an insight into making similar changes in a real world car. Obviously nothing relates directly but the basic concepts seem to follow. Wheelman

My son finally talked me into getting xbox live set up so we can play Forza together. Wondering if anyone here plays it and if you have an xbox live account? I haven't got my account set up yet so don't have a Gamer ID but as soon as I do I'll post it here. Any of you who have played Forza, what do think of the simulation? I find it pretty accurate and am a little curious about how the suspension adjustments in the game relate to real world. Wheelman

Phil, What wheels and tires are you running? Wheelman

How does running triple webers and fuel injection work with a turbo work? Wheelman