olie05

Going back to the original topic... Using a load bearing oil pan helps with block strength does it not? Designs like the cast aluminum pan on the 944, 951, etc. are load bearing oil pans... and they have a gasket with metal spacers that allows the pan to be directly connected to the sealing surface. I suppose the same benefit could be had from using the cast aluminum pans available for our engine?

The return road is the track, and motorcycles are allowed to run down the strip right behind the competitors... ...only in mexico

that red zx sounds amazing. thanks for the vid!

Words really can't describe how helpful this PDF was to me when i was running the stock computer. (Actually it helped me with my Megasquirt install too!) Fuel injection bible also, it sounds like an AFM problem to me.

Get 'er down and on the track!!!!

wow. This is great, but after all that persuasion telling me that batch fire is OK, I just don't feel like I need this.

Heres a little datalog from tuning today, I'm going lean right at 4500 rpm and I have tried raising the VE by as much as 10% of what it was was before with no improvement. You can see from the graph that PW is at 19.5ms when it goes lean. My injectors are the stock 280z injectors, 180cc/min, on a 10:1 cr engine with a cam, header, exhaust. Have I reached the limit of my stock injectors? -Oliver

Do you have an MSD? If not you should be able to run your tach off the negative side of the coil. also, yes megasquirt switches ground on everything. Thats why there are like 6 ground wires on the pigtail.

I'm running the vb921 in my v2.2 board. it took a whole 20min to solder in. I just used the hole for the led i'm triggering off of as the mounting point for the vb921.

autotune works off your ego settings. If running msnse, go to basic setting->exhuast gas settings and choose wideband. I'm assuming you have setup your wideband in the configurator. Then set your ego switch point voltage to whatever is stoich voltage out of your wideband. For ignition events i use 16 ignition events per step... but you may want to play with that. for controller step size i have used 5% in the past, and i got some surging on the freeway at partial throttle, backing it off to 3% worked well, and now i run 2% since my map has become better. controller authority: i wouldn't use more than 10%, but with a wideband i wouldn't be too afraid to use more. (maybe up to 15%) Then use the active above settings to set when you want MS to go into closed loop mode. Ok so you probably knew all that... but theres more. Go to lamda AFR settings, under the "more settings" window. Here you can choose to change your step size % after a certain kpa. You can also set up your wideband AFR tables. Once you setup your afr tables, go to the tuning window, click on autotune and go for a drive. Don't forget to hit alt+b when your done to burn the new table to the ecu. things to keep in mind: the authority*gain is what determines how big the VE table step is during autotune, and gain is .5, so 10%*.5 = 5% ve table jump. The smaller the number, the more stable the jumps will be, but you should experiment with that as well. hope that helps! -oliver

I have had no problems with my VB921 coil driver. I originally had an HEI and I went through one of them just trying to start my engine. It just seems like the vb921 is less likely to overheat than the gm hei. Also, the install is a little more stealthy, since all the wires going to the coils stay stock.

porsche?

NICE! I really like that blue.

I don't see how the LY head could get mixed up in this conversation (other than bieng z unobtanium) since it is a two valve and sohc head.

You are the man phil! Is megasquirt connected to your meth system at all? -- You need a camera mount! "I love these seats man, they're so bad A$$" classic.

there are few things i laugh out loud at in front of a computer screen. This is one of them!

mmmm the 356's look great.

Awesome! Congrats! Are you planning on attending DNI to show it off?

Sweet! Any vids of it running? thats a great rear 1/4 shot. Your car was an inspiration for me before I got my Z. Glad to see it rolled out of the shop after 2 yrs!

Why choose an intake manifold over ITB's? I am pretty much set on ITB's for the future with my car, simply for the looks, and the sound, and obviously the performance (getting rid of the stock manifold), but why do some people choose to build an intake manifold (sheet metal box, or log style) rather than just slapping on a set of throttle bodies? This discussion should be limited to N/A engines, although it might be interesting to hear why turbo guys rarely choose to use independent throttle bodies.

Reminds me of what my car was doing a few months ago. I had lowered the idle to about 600 rpm in a quest for better fuel mileage, and with the afm controling the fuel pump, i could hear the EFI relay clicking on and off. Sometimes the car would die at stop lights.

I hope you spell it right or is it write? I don't know anymore.

I can do without the over-enthusiastic announcer. Other than that, looked like both drivers were driving real hard.

So what does the optical wheel look like on the distributor, 6 slits and a HOLE?

It means that the distributor shaft can accidentally be put in 180 degrees out, if you are not careful, or if the block was at TDC, but the head was not. Most likely though, if you have spark, and fuel going in you will get some signs of life. Start with the distributor, turn the engine to TDC and make sure the distributor rotor is pointing towards the front of the car. Then, make sure there is fuel going into the engine. Good luck!