olie05

The hayabusa tranny is integrated with the engine block (as most superbike motors are) so there is no transmission conversion to rear wheel drive. what you are looking for is something like this: also, check out what super7 is doing for their gixxxxxer powered 7. http://www.super7cars.com/Gallery/?album=Our_unique_drive_system_and_reverse

I'm also interested in this wheel. Its a cheap alternative to the overused 002. Besides it reminds me of the stock zx six spoke wheel.

The ITB's will be subjected to atmospheric pressure. it is an N/A application. The reason I want t-bolt clamps is as a way of mounting the ITB's to the manifold.

yeah, you should take the distributor off the engine and spin it by hand while monitoring your laptop. you should get a tach signal. trouble shoot for loose or whatever until you get a signal.

Would it be any faster if you used wheelie bars to keep the nose down?

All the selle italia saddles i've been on felt good. I've got an older doda on my fixie, which used to be on my roadie, which also took me from houston to austin without a complaint. The general idea is to test as many saddles as you can and find "the one". the other general idea is that a leather saddle will conform to you, and it will be the last saddle you buy. I love the looks of a trimmed brooks. here's a good read on saddles: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html

Did you make sure the distributor is getting power while cranking?

I'm going to need a few (12 to be exact) t-bolt clamps for my ITB project, but seeing as how I am a college student, I'm going to hold out for the best possible price. The ones I have seen so far are roughly $3 each for 1.88"-2" effective clamping diameter. So, where do you guys get your t-bolt clamps?

thats going to look real nice from the back!

Man... that car has come a long way. All us Texas guys gotta get together one of these days. We had an impromptu Houston meeting about a month ago, 5 z's showed up! (me and ted were the only non turbo ones!!!)

Even then, there is already a transmission mount holding the tunnel together. Seems like that sort of thing is worth its weight on a 'vert.

WOW That is light. My raleigh olympian weighs in at 22 lbs in fixie form. bamboo ftw

ok you got me. in order to verify the timing, set the engine to TDC (cam lobes of cyl 1 at 10 and 2 o'clock) and check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing toward the front of the car.

It certainly seems inferior to most independent rear setups. Just think, when the body rolls in a corner, you will no longer be able to have any negative camber gain to compensate for the body roll, since the relationship of the wheel to the axle is fixed. It seems you could compensate by adding some negative camber into the axle, where the hub mounts to the axle, but you would be stuck at that specific camber setting in all situations.

I'd like to know how much it weighs. I Really like the LHD. I love fixies!!! oh yeah, you should throw that up on fixedgeargallery.com

sounds like the timing is off. Hook up a timing light and verify the timing. Also, make sure the plugs are gapped correctly.

Yes it is

you should use the pcv and vacuum ports on the throttle bodies. I am planning on using the PCV ports for my brake booster so it doesn't affect my idle, and the other ports for vacuum signal. I still haven't decided exactly what to do with the pcv yet, but it looks like i'm going to vent it to atmosphere via catch can. sorry, i'm not really an ITB user yet

Edis is the proven way to go. If you are feeling a little more adventurous you can go to the microsquirt, which can read two VR or two Hall effect sensors. If you are even considering a wasted spark system (like edis) you could use some dual post coils, put in 3 vb921 coil drivers and use your current trigger setup. Only thing will be that you will have to remove one of the magnets in your flywheel. This would be the most cost effective solution, and probably what I would do in your situation.

Any manifold you make for these throttle bodies will also bolt up any dcoe style carburetor right?

I have a very similar cam, and for a daily driver it is more than streetable. I really wouldn't want to go any bigger.

there are so many things wrong with that picture.

One of the things I remember being a highlight for rustoleum was that you could apply it directly to metal. Sounds like you want to use a primer to get the surface in better condition though. Why not use rustoleum spray primer?

Prox, dump the plenum... now's your chance to go N/A!!!

Looks awesome... especially if you could somehow leave the bottom runners exposed... They look nice and curvy