olie05

that's a drag. 280z ones are about 20 bucks a pop.

I had a decent experience using it in the past. I think the problem is that it has too many constants that can ruin the stability of it... and maybe most people don't take the time to get those right. Does tunerstudio have presets for different types of o2 sensors?

how did it compare to the autotune feature in megatune?

Yes that's what I did. 10"x5/8" grade 8 bolt and nyloc nut. Yes, we are definitely removing the lock pin. Trust me when I tell you that these things REALLY DO GET THAT CORRODED.

Just went through this. Here's what you have to do: Click on search. Type in "spindle pins". Then spend the next 2 days reading about everyone's spindle pin sagas. GOOD LUCK.

press release here: http://www.metzelermoto.com/web/news/press_dettaglio.page?queryPressString=year:2010*&year=2010&uri=/metzeler/en_IT/browser/xml/news/news/mtz_en_IT-1000026401.xml&index_sort=cms-day,cms-month&month=month&type=type&word=word

looking at the build thread it appears to be your run of the mill turbo swapped 240... just done really clean. http://www.houston-imports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515001 Also, in case you are wondering CarConnection is Jeremy who works at powerfab. He was also known here as 73turbo240z...

I'm pretty sure the heat was what got your spindle pins out, not the PB blaster. Like I said earlier, we let the pin cool down after we had only removed it 1/2 way, and when we put it back in the press it wouldn't move. Once we got it back up to temp it slid out like butter again.

The stock pump is probably good enough, if you are just adding ITBs. If you are using the ITBs along with a turbo, then it may be a good idea to upgrade your fuel delivery system. The link you show is not designed for fuel injection applications. The maximum pressure on the pressure regulator is listed at 20psi. You will need to operate your system at a minimum of 35psi. if it's gotta be from jegs you should be looking at somehting more like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/307502/10002/-1?parentProductId=965483 It doesn't come with lines though.

I didn't use a bucket, but I definitely sprayed pb blaster over the accessible spots (both ends and lock pin area) several times before attempting to do anything with the pins. I really don't think it helped at all... but maybe a bucket would.

Where do you guys strap your cars down when you do dyno pulls? I have removed the rear tow points, and I can't think of many other places under the body that I want to be strapping to.

Finally got my spindle pins out!!! I'll describe the process for the sake of the thread: First I disassembled the struts so that there was very little weight hanging off the spindle pin end of things. Then I went to a shop with a sturdy 20 ton press. This is much better than the press I bought because it has some telescopic rods that keep the ram assembly perpendicular to the jack. (mine was allowing slight misalignment) We placed the bottom of the strut on top of a piece of aluminum that had a hole that was about 5mm larger than the spindle pin and we machined a piece that was about .5mm smaller than the pin. We applied full force with the press... and nothing happened. We brought out the oxyacetylene torch and heated up around the spindle pin. More pressure... and finally it budged. We had to keep the strut/hub hot to continue to remove the pin, otherwise it would stop moving. I have replaced the pin with a 5/8x10" bolt. I'm NEVER putting stock spindle pins back on my car. Judging from all the corrosion on the pins when they were removed, I can guess that mine were up there among some of the "impossible" pins. This is the most effective way to do it. We even tried an air hammer with no results. Good luck to anyone trying to remove their pins!

You probably will not be able to run the runners parallel on the closer spaced ports. The reason is that your throttle bodies most likely have a wider spacing than the ports. This is what I had designed for a manifold, using the minimum spacing allowed by the throttle bodies. edit: I forgot to mention that in the above drawings, the throttle body spacing is 80mm. This is the standard spacing on the 2003 gsx-r 750 throttle bodies that I was designing for.

looks like this is a common part. http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&source=hp&q=drive+shaft+spacer&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=XRhWS-6JCo-WtgevisyABQ&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCAQrQQwAg I wouldn't hesitate to run one of these.

Spacing is an issue that we can discuss here since it applies to your manifold design. (the manifold from the head to the tb's. What were you planning? Even spacing, or something else? when I was planning my ITB setup I wanted to do 2 sets of 3 evenly spaced throttles with a space in between the two sets. I think this would have a cool three barrel weber look to it. Why do you have to alternate the throttles the way you describe?

Car looks great! Something needs to be done about that nasty fuel cell sticking out though.

I don't have any input on your manifold ideas, but I'm interested in your throttle bodies. They look like normal motorcycle TB's except for the flange mount and the two mounting holes (perpendicular to the flange). Do you have any more information on them? Like what car they are off of, or if they are completely custom ordered? Also, is the bolt pattern the same as the DCOE style carb? In other words, will this bolt up to a cannon manifold- or similar?

I'm looking for some new drums for my car and I would like to go with aluminum. It's an easy upgrade and I have no reason to upgrade to discs in the back. Also, my current drums are warped... (could it be from using the e-brake too much or too hard?) anyway, I read that brembo discontinued their aluminum drums for us a few years ago, and there was a rumor that the beck-arnley ones are aluminum. Can any one confirm this, or give me a source for aluminum drums at around (or less than) $100 a pop??

did it run? I would be quite impressed.

As I was telling you over the phone, this could have a similar effect to swapping in a 2.3 diff in place of your 3.7... at least for the first two gears. for the 3.7: 1st - 35mph 2nd - 56mph 3rd - 89mph 4th - 126mph with a 2.3 1st - 56mph 2nd - 90mph 3rd - 142mph 4th - 202mph If you are almost at redline at your trapspeed then I would keep everything as it is and try the 2nd gear start. Otherwise you should adjust your diff ratio until you are at redline in 3rd gear, and use 1-2-3. The question is if that will actually make your car faster. (it follows your theory though.) Hopefully someone with lots of drag experience can chime in and say if this is a good approach to a lower e.t.

I'll agree with the comments on quality of the ray's wheels. However, we're looking at $2500 for a set vs. $350 for a set. ...not a hard decision for a difference you can't feel on the street.... and for a car that's worth about the price of the set of volks.

These wheels are similar. Although not offered in 0 offset, it is offered in 25mm offset. 4x114.3, 16x7. $350 shipped is not bad. Pick up a set of 25mm spacers/adapters and you're set. http://jlbmotorsports.com/rims/konig-list.html#CountersteerR

Is that picture with the stock merc sprockets and the stock nissan crank sprocket? The chain length will probably change if you use only merc sprockets or only nissan sprockets. I agree with XNKE that using the kameari style chain tensioner you will get the right chain tension, rather than hoping that the range of the nissan tensioner will work. (kind of a long shot for such a custom application) I'm curious to see what you come up with for a solution.

I'm still working on my spindle pins. Today I went out and got a 12ton press and hacked off the rear LCA. Even after removing the spring and strut mount I found the strut to be very awkward to situate squarely on the press. Since I couldn't get it straight the made in china ram started to bend to one side from not pressing squarely on the pin. Can someone describe or post pics of how they set their struts in the press?

I have had nothing but good experience with http://jlbmotorsports.com/index.html First they sold me a set of drag fast forward wheels for a very reasonable price. A year later I crashed into a curb and damaged 2 of the wheels. I called them up and was told that those wheels were discontinued. Three days later I received an email saying that they found 3 of those wheels in the warehouse and they offered them to me at a price lower than I had originally paid. I was very satisfied with their customer service. The only drawback is selection. They don't have much in the way of 4x114.3 wheels in 0 offset. Overall, I highly recommend doing business with them if you can find a wheel that works with your car.