olie05

Mine are called "Drag Fast Forward" wheels in 15x8 all the way around. Yours look a bit different in the close up shots.

Jeff... those look like my wheels, except without the stripe!

Thanks for posting these pics! I can't wait to attack my car with a sawsall and a welder...

As long as we're doing pictures: The above picture is me on my old raleigh fixie, which has donated it's parts to my better fitting peugot fixie (not pictured) Whats the point of owning a road bike if you don't go racing?!? Monzter-- that is one sick 29er... i bet it weighs nothing.

I used to commute a lot to school, but now I mostly just take time and train correctly rather than try to work it in to my commute. Instead of doing the 12mile to school thing, i'll just do the 12 miles there and back in one sitting, and treat it like a time trial. My machines include a self built aluminum frame carbon forked campy veloce bike, and a peugot fixie from the 80's. I love fixies!!!!

I have in hand a HY35W. I'm trying to make a downpipe for it, but I don't know which v-band flange to order. The dimensions of the turbo exhaust housing where the v-band mates up are as follows: Outer diameter of flange: 112mm (4.409") Inside diameter of turbo outlet: 94.16mm (3.70") Thickness of flange: 4.87mm (0.192") I think those are all the relevant dimensions. Now looking at the siliconehoses.com offerings it seems that the 4" v-band flange that they sell will leave the least amount of gap (difference in diameter) at the outermost diameter of both flanges (~.08" all the way around). Should I go for the 4" v-band or does the argument still stand that the 3.5" might seal better? for reference, the 3.5" v-band would leave a 0.1595" gap all the way around. Also, which turbos were you guys dealing with when you found out all the previous info?

I might work on this with the remainder time I have in the summer. The main thing holding me back is the aluminum welding: I can't do it myself, and I don't have a jig to align the tubes to mate the hole spacing with the head to the hole spacing of the throttles. If anyone would like to do something like this, just search on google for people who do KA24 manifold chops and then attach moto throttles with rubber boots. The concept is very much the same. Also, I will update this thread as soon as I have any progress.

it's item number: 220384201733 but it ends in two days or so.

...besides the obvious fact that there is no engine? from this ebay listing: http://i17.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/3d/38/7df8_3.JPG

I already have a cam that lopes at idle... I guess I just need a glass pack (not really a fan of 'em btw...)

I know there have been countless thread about how to get the f1 sound in your car and it basically comes down to having lots of cylinders and voodoo in the exhaust. Thats not what i'm after. I'm looking to improve the sound that my car already has at 3-4k rpm. It's a nasty snarl that makes pigeons fly away and everyone turn around. Most of you probably know what i'm talking about, but in case you don't i'm thinking something like this: anyway, how do I make that sound come through most of the rpm range, instead of just a single band? Equal length headers? Twice pipes? ITBs?<--not exhaust i know...

I replaced the broken damper with another stock one. I was looking into the nicer bhj style dampers, but couldn't justify the cost, since my engine rarely sees anything over 6000rpm. The used replacement has held up just fine. [/threadjack]

If the TB was rubbing the hood, why not go to a different intake manifold, if the goal is to not cut up the car? the word "crossram" comes to mind. alternatively a SBF 5.0 style FI manifold would fit the bill. (side mounted throttle)

My car used to scrape more than half of the speedbumps I encountered, using 225-50-15 tires and eibach (prokit) springs. Now I use 215-60-15 and I haven't scraped since... If you're going to drive your car on the street, consider what obstacles you will have to go over before making your frame rails kiss the concrete.

If you mounted the wheel to the outer pulley you should be fine. Its the inner one (the one that drives the alternator) that is isolated by rubber and prone to slippage. How do I know? Mine came apart

I think that's what I was hearing in the vid. The cam you have now isn't so big that it would cause any roughness above 1000rpm. Whats your compression like? I may need to open up my exhaust some just to get those nice NA tones! ...I currently have a 272/282 split grind with .480 lift and it's very docile. In other words: I need more CAM! (and less exhaust)

Sounds good... and mean as hell. sounds really rough below 3000rpm though. is that how big the cam is? 0_0

I see you are monitoring all 6 egt's, but how are you going to use that information for anything other than diagnostics if you are using megasquirt? You're going to have to step up to something a bit more powerful to do individual injector trimming, if you need to.

There are two advantages to having a "springless" or "positive valve actuation" system (as decuir calls it). 1. elimination of a high rate spring from the valve train - leads to the friction reduction mentioned above. 2. the valve following the exact* movements of the cam all the way to the point where normal valve springs would float. In those regards it is not too closely comparable to a roller rocker setup. BUT you can't eliminate the spring altogether. Even in the Ducati system you see a spring mounted on the follower pivots to help keep the followers close to the cam. Also, by using 2 cam lobes instead of one to open and close the valve, the ducati system is far superior to the Decuir system because valve movements are not constrained by the movement of an offset circle (basically a sine wave). This allows you to take advantage of optimizing the velocity of the valve at open and closing points. *within tolerance.

I guess this is old news, but The 2009 R1 features: Crossplane crank! Braap would cringe with his obsession with flatplane cranks. It certainly makes sense in this application, and I want one just so I can have a bike that sounds like Rossi's on the street.

are you going to mount an IAT in each throttle? You could log it using megatune and see the difference between the air temp between the front and back cylinders. ...it would only be for the geek factor though.

I have the same setup you are describing. I didn't really have to change much on the tune with the stock ECU just to get mine driving. I just ran 93 octane, and retarded the timing just a tad. Worked well for daily driving. That held me over until I got a mid sized cam, megasquirt, and advanced the timing. Now the engine is making some decent power.

I'd like to see pics of the plastic valve cover.

DEVAS is just one guy's marketing attempt at camless engine control. I think it is far more appropriate to refer to this type of control as "camless engine control" or something similar, rather than by the name of a single example. (also, the DEVAS page hasn't been updated since 2003.) This thread was once about different types of intake systems. I think Kevin put it quite well that the advantage to using any type of intake tuning lies in the ability to flatten a torque curve, especially for road racing. Let's get this thread back on track.