olie05

ah ok, the MC has never been replaced, and the slave has been replaced, although I blew through 2 of those in the past. Seems like the problem is the MC. Time to replace it i guess.

I have been having a problem with my clutch over the last 6 months or so, but it has just now become bad enough to require attention. the symptoms: -I have to pump the pedal a few times to build pressure in the mornings (maybe 5 times before i can stick it in first gear) -There is no fluid on the ground, in fact it has gone the past 6 months with no bleeding or replacing fluid. -When the pumping is going on, air bubbles are coming up in the reservoir. -there was a lot of air in the line when I bled it last night. So the clutch system is pretty simple, just a master, a slave and some hose in between. This problem should not be that hard to track down. What has me confused is that there is obviously air in the lines, but there are no visible leaks of clutch fluid anywhere.

misuse of the word "reversed engineered" I hope you meant to say his manifold is just reversed from your buddy's.

Wish I did have something to reveal about these wheels. They look like they could be zero offset too. I know MSA was offering something similar the Konig Maxxim screech and Maxxim fourplay and those are work knock offs. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/WWC19

Very weird strut bar o_0

Are you RHD? Hope it fits 'cus that is a very nice piece!

That looks good. It cleaned up the engine bay quite nicely too!

Nice job Phil and Chris! Both of those cars are great representations of turbo L6's. Phil, you should paint your car midnight blue and have yourself a 'devil z.' It certainly looks similar with what you have done.

Thanks 74_5.0L_Z thats pretty much what I was looking for. Terry, You are right. The overall length is useless to me. Center to center is infinitely more important for what I'm doing.

bump. Anyone have any info? I have been getting pick up points from the chassis dimension .pdf's out there, but I'm still missing a few dimensions, and i'm getting conflicting data from a few of the measurements I've come up with.

I have the whole bottom row of my spark map set to -5 degrees, above 3000 rpm... and I have about 15% ve in the bottom row. Makes for some pretty decent flames. One time a friend reported roughly 12" long flame from my exhaust tip. This is through a turbo style muffler. Sounds like a gunshot when the flame makes it all the way out, and it's fun to watch the people back off when they see it edit: i guess I didn't make it clear that this only happens under deceleration.

p.s. Dan: It's a targa, thats how.

Why is it that new cars that aren't Z's are looking alot like the Z's (s30)? I cite the porsche cayman, bmw z4, and finally the new solstice: I found it while browsing my favorite ricer forum here's the link: http://www.motorauthority.com/news/coupes/pontiac-unveils-2009-solstice-coupe/

check it out: there's alot of nice heel toe downshifting action.

I think I'm going to get a set of sportmax wheels and paint them like this: what do you guys think? I'm too lazy to photo shop in the back wheels but you get the idea.

heh. Reminds me of tightening up the chain on a fixed gear or single speed bicycle. I would have to assume that (just like on a fixed gear) you get some binding if you tighten up too much, at which point you would be losing power from the binding.

I'm trying to find the length of the front stock control arm. Anyone know it off the top of their head? also, maybe we can start a suspension dimensions thread? I've been searching hybridz and google for dimensions and I can't get a good diagram or anything. thanks

a few wheel widening sites: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_wide/index.html http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/Wide.htm also old threads of the same subject http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69977&highlight=swastika+widening http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96705&highlight=swastica+widening

+1 on the dash very nice, and we need more info.

I'm sorry I definitely meant I-6 motors. After a little research it seems the TVR engines are all aluminum, but that would require shipping all the way across the pond. Didn't know that chevy's 4.2 was aluminum. Is that an I-6 as well?

Answer to the first question: How much you cut out depends on how much shorter your strut inserts are than the stock ones. (unless you use a spacer under the strut, then everything changes.) Answer to the second question: By welding a collar to the struts and placing the spring perch on top of that. Or you could use an aluminum tube over the strut housing to hold the spring perch up.

I was looking at alternatives to the popular iron block 6 cyl we have available to swap into the z, toyota sixes and nissan 6es (rb), but I don't really see a whole bunch of aluminum block sixes. is this for any particular reason? The BMW aluminum 6 cylinder engines seem to have a bad rap, because of the nikasil coating on the cylinder walls instead of iron sleeves, but that seems to be the only problem. Lets start a list a few aluminum 6 cyl engines you know of. go!

I'll have to agree that ME is the way to go. You get alot of people switching from ME to MET, but not the other way around. MET seems like kind of a backup. I love my major and I can't think of anything I'd rather be studying.