olie05

Update: The siliconeintakes.com 4" v-band kit was ordered and it fit pretty well on the turbo. The outside diameter seemed to match perfectly. I will post another update when we fire up the engine and let you know if it is sealing properly. Here's the link: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=327&osCsid=55cb47693783036aea5141429f91c57a

Is that a tomos moped in the background of the second pic? Nice Z btw!

BAH. You just need to become speedier with the feeler gauges and man up to the scalding hot engine waiting to torture your knuckles. That being said, I haven't adjusted my valves in a year, but I also have not driven more than 3000 miles since the last adjustment.

can you quickly describe your setup? I'm mostly interested in the following: Induction (looks like ITBs) Static compression head (P90? n42) (ported... etc?) pistons (flat or dished) piston diameter Fuel grade? I'm currently at 27 degrees max advance on 93 octane with my 10.3:1 n42 flat-tops setup. Curious to see what you are running to get up to 38 degrees advance.

phil, your car sounds really really mean.

Motec has released a product that eliminates the need for a standard fuse/relay box and replaces it with a compact ecu type module. This is freaking genius! It would make rewiring a breeze. http://www.motec.com.au/aboutpowerdistribution/powerdistributionoverview/

The company Eberspach has come up with a way of influencing exhaust sound by using a speaker at one end of the muffler. The speaker actively attenuates undesireable frequencies, and amplifies the ones that make the exhaust sound good. It can even make a diesel sound like a gasoline engine... according to them. Anyway I have attached the article if anyone is interested. Enjoy! electricmuffler.pdf

Ditto on the weather. I have been riding my moto non stop since my car has been on jackstands. Welcome!

Race car project for sure.

you should be using 3 sparks per revolution. but really if you are doing wasted spark ignition, you are only interested in 3 sparks/2revolutions as it relates to coil charge time. If you are doing a true COP ignition setup then you are only interested in 1 spark/2 revolutions for coil charge time. You should not be running into a situation where coil dwell time is limited by anything more than 3 spark events/2 revolutions if you are running either COP or wasted spark. Edit: Care to share the information you stumbled upon?

Since 3/4 of the replies so far have nothing to do with the original topic, I think I'll contribute. If you look at some of the guys running triple carbs (carburetors, for those not hip with the slang) you will see some examples of custom air boxes. A lot of them look like what TWM offers for the 6-cylinder setup on the following page: http://twminduction.com/airbox.htm These types of air boxes can be made of fiberglass, carbon fiber, or some type of sheet metal. Also there is some tuning theory behind the volume that the air box should be. The simple way out would be to get some sort of individual filter set up for each carburetor with a built in velocity stack. Racetep.com sells something like this: http://racetep.com/webfilter.html also, black dragon sells options for individual filters for the carbs.

I'm a roadie... been doing the txbra races for almost a year now.

Zipp has been using dimples on their high end carbon fiber road bicycle wheels for a few years now.

Eh... I'm thinking a spindle pin puller might not work in my case anymore, so I'm going to cut them and get the hubs on a hydraulic press. thanks for the reply though. Mods, I suppose this thread can be closed now.

Anyone have a puller I can borrow?

I'm looking for the rear suspension pieces for a 77 280z. I'm pretty sure all the other first gen parts will fit. The specific pieces i'm looking for are the L-shaped brackets that connect the rear rear control arm mounting point to the chassis. These mount just behind the differential. Also I need the bar connecting the two L-shaped pieces. Looks like this: willing to pay $30+shipping for these parts. Thanks! Oliver

I don't know what is up with the spindle pin puller program, but I haven't heard from anyone after posting last week. If anyone has one out there I would really like to borrow it. I'll pay shipping both ways+ $10 for your troubles... Thanks!

I need this tool. Does someone have it out there so I can use it? It's my turn to do spindle pins

Yes, but it also involves a bit of fabrication. For me, I don't like spending much time on my car's rear end, since it works GREAT for the low horsepower numbers I'm putting out. However, I would like to have a more solid front differential mounting point than the stocker, hopefully to keep from replacing the soft rubber ones every 5 years. A bolt in solution to this problem would be fantastic. (In my case)

I would be interested in such a mount for the diff.

Is this something that I would be able to see after taking the head off? Like, could there be an internal crack within a water passage, not visible from the outside?

Thanks for the suggestions. I was planning on changing out the headgasket this weekend, but I might hold off on that until I get a better idea of what exactly is going on. keep the suggestions coming!

Lately my car has been consuming coolant like crazy. For example, I filled up the radiator about 5 days ago, and I went to check it yesterday and it was missing almost an entire gallon of coolant. Also, as I was filling the radiator I decided to overfill it as the engine was running to see what would come out, and a brownish oily liquid came out. Here's the weird part: 1. there are no puddles under my car where I park it 2. I checked compression and it is as follows: 6 - 190 5 - 200 4 - 205 3 - 200 2 - 195 1 - 205 Which, is not really indicating a headgasket failure to me. So, where exactly is my coolant going if it's not leaking onto the ground?

The rebate is only for "advanced fuel economy." that stuff is only available in 0w-30 and 0w-20.

I thought sleeves were metal tubes that the pistons go up and down in, and block guards (or filling blocks) is the aftermarket option to bridging the gap on an open deck block. exhibit a, block guard: exhibit b, engine filler: exhibit c, sleeves: exhibit d, sleeves with integrated block guards: ..and now back to the volvo I6 thread.