olie05

What do you do when you want to open the passenger window? Shared window crank? My friend used to have a crx and he lost the clip for the window crank on the passenger side. He would keep the crank in his door pocket and make passengers ask for it if they wanted ventilation.

I'm very happy with my hella housings. I took them off a 944 that had been retrofitted. I don't feel the need to upgrade either.

beautiful car. Enjoy the drive If you're driving through houston, let me know.

seems like a lot more work to do it without cutting out an access panel. I cut off the air horn, trimmed about 3/4" off of it and epoxied it back on (after grinding off all the rust from the cowl surface) Then I took some seam sealer and sealed up the inside and outside of the air horn where it meets the cowl. I'll be welding the access panel back in place soon.

I currently have my car down for some "rust prevention" and I was working around the cowl area. The whole thing was covered in rust (under the cowl panel). As I was cleaning I decided to stick my hand under the passenger's side (US car, LHD) cowl stamping and feel around for dirt/rust etc. I felt a very rusty (and distinct) hole in the metal passageway from which the fan draws air. With no other access to the area I decided to cut out some metal: With the cowl stamping removed I could clearly see the problem: When it rains, the water collects at the bottom of the cowl area, until it drains out of either drain hole. If everything is working correctly, this little "stove pipe" piece of metal keeps the water out, and allows the air to flow in. Since mine is rusted out at the bottom, some of the water that collects at the bottom of the cowl panel finds its way into the cabin. I have not decided how I'm going to fix this problem just yet, but I have cut out the stove pipe (that's what I'm calling it until someone gives me a more correct name for it.) Comments? Suggestions? Has anyone attacked this problem before?

I don't know if this has been posted here before, but I just found a 20% off any single item at harbor freight: http://images.harborfreight.com/hftusa/SingleMagLanders/facebook/Images/20_c.jpg

Great job. Also, great reference pics. Thanks!

I ended up going with the r4s compound from porterfield, front and rear. I also got some racing blue fluid. I'll post my impressions after the next event.

How about this: http://eurowerks.org/showthread.php?p=233627 DIY suction cup camera mount

search google for "push rod suspension". That is sort of what's going on here... at least it will get you thinking of how it works. There should be more results for that than "rocker arm suspension" This is a very interesting take on getting an upper control arm into the rear of the z. While other people have done the 240sx, c4 irs, or jag irs swap, this option seems like it would provide the most adjustability.

I have the 280z auto adjusting mechanism... So does that mean I just have to pull my e-brake once the drums cool off, or is there a manual way to adjust the drums even with the auto adjust mechanism? My auto-adjust mechanism is well lubed and seems to work pretty well.

I'm currently looking at upgrading my pads. I just did an autocross and cooked my front pads... the smell was horrible and I had noticeably decreased braking power. The main purpose of this car is street duty, with maybe 1 autocross every couple of months and possibly a track day in a few months. I'm not opposed to changing back to "street" pads once i'm done goin' racin'. Pads I'm looking at for the STOCK front setup: Hawk HP+ (doesn't sound like such a good choice due to the original post in this thread) EBC (Green, yellow or red?) KVR performance I'm open to suggestions as well. I'm not doing a brake upgrade just yet, so the stock setup will have to work. I'm also flushing with a higher boiling point brake fluid. Should I bother doing anything with the rear? (Currently stock/ stock shoes in good working condition)

Bought a radiator from Aziza Z. It met and exceeded all of my expectations. Thanks for being a great person to do business with!

I have never tried this for myself, but one of my muscle car friends used wd40 to get the undercoating off the bottom of the car. You might want to try that in combination with the heat.

I don't see how the rt diff mount adds to chassis rigidity. Could you please explain? Also, the canepa z is a great example of a "different" approach to #7 on the list: http://www.canepacollection.com/detail-1974-datsun-240z_imsa_gtu-brad_frisselle_imsa_gt_u_championship-5124662.html They just use a plate that holds the differential and the rear control arm bushings. It also provides a place to mount their oil cooler and other things.

I'm curious as to why you used two different diameter tubes here. I'm assuming they are similar in wall thickness... and if that is true then you have put your 'weaker link' (the smaller diameter tube) in a position to receive the highest bending stress (at the weld, where it meets the plate). Rectangular cross section tubing may have been a better choice, to distribute the bending stress at the plate better. Also, a shorter distance from the engine to the frame would reduce the stress seen at the plate. Have you had success with this style of mounting before? I don't know if I would want to push 500hp though that kind of mount.

This sounds more like a turbo vs. NA battle than a carb vs. Efi. If you used the wideband on both cars you have verified that fuel delivery is not a problem, but you still have the variable of the turbo plumbing attached to one of the motors. My theory is that the turbo configuration is causing your idle combustion temperatures to operate in a different range, which emits more noticeable emissions than the NA car. Another theory is that exhaust density and speed is different coming out of the tailpipe, and even if your emissions are the same (in terms of ppm or whatever they use to measure) the slower moving (denser) turbo exhaust will be more noticeable than the fast flowing NA exhaust. I know exactly what you are talking about, and I have only experienced this in turbo Z's (and other turbo cars). I've never had the eye watering sensation in my (NA) car.

That was quick. I guess it bothered you enough to do something about it NOW.

Ron hit it on the money. This is simply a bell crank, Same idea that the pushrod suspension guys are using to turn their linear rate springs into effective "increasing rate" springs. The only other option is to go for an eccentric cam with a throttle cable, as you mentioned.

My engine (10:1cr) was doing about 215psi with the stock camshaft and flat tops. After I installed the cam it came down to about 200-205. Also, 38 degrees total advance seems a bit much. I run on the conservative side. 28 degrees at full throttle, 37 degrees at cruise/light load. I also run 93 (R+M)/2 octane. With no detonation issues. I hope some of those figures help you decide whats up with your engine. What I would do: 1) verify ignition timing 2) check camshaft timing. #2 is much harder to do once the cam sprocket has been in place for a while, but possible to do with a degree wheel. Might be easier to just do the timing chain+tensioner+sprockets at this time to get everything right. As others have mentioned: it sounds like the last thing you need to do right now is to raise your compression ratio.

Will you be putting up the drawings for those mounts? Looks even easier to make than your RTdiff mount. (assuming you don't go for the swiss cheese look)

Warranty

I'd like to see that in ultra slow motion.

that's about 70 dollars worth of TC amplifiers alone! I guess it's still better than buying 6 lc-1's.

He sent me the pics and I posted them up. I'm surprised the pics still show up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109009