olie05

Let me explain my question... Everyone talks about drivetrain loss when calculating horsepower, but my question is, are the front wheels included in this calculation? The reason why I ask, is because even though they are not connected to the drivetrain by the car, they are connected to the drivetrain through the ground, and they have to rotate at the same rate as the rear wheels (in a rear wheel drive car, assuming the tires are the same OD). the inverse applies for front wheel drive cars. So, are the front wheels considered part of the drivetrain?

do you have any more pics of that car? those wheels look sweet!!!

BMW did a much better job on that car than I thought they would. Who rembmers the x-coupe concept of about a year ago? I'd say BMW preserved the lines of the z4 roadster very well. I actualy like it!

if you look at the paperwork that came with the tokicos, there is a specified length that that gap is supposed to be. It is not supposed to be flush with the top of the strut tube.

I would just use all the components you got of the engine. The freeze plug missing could mean alot of things... all bad. it is likely that the engine overheated at some point. the compression thing is not good at all. Just swap over your turbo components and call it a day.

If you're looking for a cheap porsche, the 944 will do the trick. Most of them on ebay are going for under 3,000. Support for the ls1 swap is there, so your small block should fit in there no problem... and talk about performance parts!!!

Yeah, i'm not ready for this swap yet... so i'm not down for it. I'm sad to say that this thread has turned into a N/A version of the KA vs SR thread. I think i have made a choice though. I really want to run the KA, mostly because not very many people have done it, and because it will be very cheap. Also, once I do the swap I will be able to provide factual information about how this swap works in a S30 as opposed to all the hypothetical ones I have been flooded with in this thread. (although most of them have been helpful so far.) and yes, I already have the megasquirt system and harness, so management is going to be fully programmable. N/A KA!!! here i come...

I did my research on the vildini mounts, I'm not afraid of them. I just don't want to have to make my own mounts from scratch. As for you, lewis maudlin, I see a huge advantage to having a KA engine over the L28, it has a crossflow head, 4 valves per cylinder, and the exhaust doesn't heat up the intake to insane temperatures. It would definitely be lighter too, since it is smaller and made out of the same materials as the L28. The L engine was a truck engine too!! so whats the problem with swaping in another truck engine. How many chevy small blocks are in Z's and how many of thos same SB's are in trucks also??? don't go raggin' on truck engines. now, comparing the KA to the SR is another story. But that has been discussed in other threads. Basically the way I see it: L28 < KA24DE < SR20DE oh btw, how much you want for that kohler? lol

hmmm.. knowing that the vildini mounts work with a KA is sparking my interest. I know N/A KA parts are readily available. Even with the Iron block, I will still save weight over the L28 it would be replacing.Maybe I will be the first person to swap a KA into a Z? Also, the KA sounds like a "stroker 4" with similar dimensions as what people do for stroker 6's, and we all know the people making the most power off N/A with L28's are those that have stroked their engines. Plus side: I would have plenty of money left over for performance parts!!!

well, some of the other reasons I want to go to an I-4 is because of fuel economy. If an SR20det can provide the same amount of fuel savings as an N/A one, then I'll be all over it. Then there is also price. I have noticed that N/A sr's are cheaper than Turbo ones. Plus turbocharged engines are always asking for more, (intercooler, piping, bov, DP, etc...) whereas an N/A engine, just drop in, hook up the exhaust and stick on a pipe and filter for the intake. One less thing to worry about for me. Although, since I do like doing things on the cheap, I could purchase a US KA24DE set up and swap that in, granted I'd have to make my own mounts as oposed to just buying a mount kit (vildini) and, then I would actualy be able to find some performance parts, such as a rebuild kit, for under $400 with Higher CR pistons, and N/A headers would be much easier to find for this engine than an SR20DE. Looking at both sides, I think i would prefer the SR, because, even though its more expensive (alot more), i believe that a stroker SR with High CR and big Cams would perform better than a KA with a few mods, and do it with less weight. who knows... I think i have more research to do on N/A KA's and N/A SR's.

lol mike, you're always trying to sell me stuff. I don't have cash for this yet, just trying to get ideas for the future... think summer 2006. can you hold on to it until then?

I've been contemplating an SR swap, for the economical aspects of the engine, and its weight savings over the L engine. Now I'm not a turbo person by any means, and I prefer trying to squeeze out the last amounts of power without "power adders" Does anyone have any input on N/A sr20's? What block/head would be the best setup for N/A? sr20ve? de? With the large engine compartment of the z with an SR, what would be the best header design? ITB's or intake manifold? How high CR can i go while on pump gas? (probably going to run it on MSnS) It probably won't happen for a while, since i'm quite happy with my engine right now just want to get some ideas for this swap... -Oliver

you sould consider going to a higher compression ratio and a more extreme cam. That is the only way you will get to your 200hp goal on N/A. Also, do the standard mods such as 3.9:1 rear diff, lightweight flywheel, maybe lose some weight on the car itself? That will make the car feel faster.

it looks alot like mike's car now.

"Car runs high 5.50s low 5.60s on foot brake with a 1.18 1.19 60 foot." ummm... is he saying that car runs 5.50 in the 1/4 mile? That may be the fastest z out there.

that's funny!

according to yahoo, each of those 15x10 wheels are $426.493704 and you have to be japanese for the link to appear on the page to order them.

finish your z mike!!!! I've seen the camary v6 in mr2's on the internet. Its a very good swap for such a light car, its just ALOT more parts hunting than any swap into a Z. (good luck!!!)

if he could find a shorter transmission, he would be able to make the wheel base alot shorter... It looks like the seats are really far forward.

I agree... or get a 3.7 clsd. Not much more than that phantom grip your planning on buying.

aren't those wheels made by SSR?

i think it would be easier to make your own turbo headers. Maybe not equal length, just something that would free up the flow over the stock exhaust manifold... although people are making some nice numbers on that heavy log.

for reference, 1mm overbore, flat top pistons (10.3:1cr) Cold air intake, Stock exhaust manifold, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust, 3.9 rear, and ALL STOCK electronics got my car down to 14.8 1/4 mile. 2,500lb's... just for reference.

bump... i really want to see this intake manifold!