olie05

so if it fits between the pad and the caliper, how thick is it? it can't be very thick at all right? -Oliver

lol were all doin it. I wonder who will finish first...

I think I remember reading in the corky bell turbo book that the ideal intake size for forcing air through any radiator type contraption is 1/4 of the surface area of the radiator. In this case you are using an intercooler... so here is my rendering of it: You would have air going over the top for the IC, and the 2 blue air currents you drew originally would be forced to go through the IC. i got bored... hehe

there are some nice roads over by there. I visit a friend in lago vista every once in a while. Its a very nice drive.

ok here is an update with more info. I took the car to xpress lube to have the gear oil drained, a flush, and refill. There were big metal shards on the magnetic drain plug, three to be exact with the average size about, 1" x 1/16" x 1/14". The oil that came out was completely metallic. I'm going to get another transmission this week and replace the old one sometime next weekend. I hope this fluid change will help it make it for the next week that I have to commute. (i'm staying off the freeways) -Oliver

is that a kameari chain tensioner? or just an anodized head access cover? I went to the junkyard today and tried to get a 240sx throttle body, cable and pedal... only to find out they wanted 49.50 for the TB, 12.95 for the cable, and another $24 for the pedal... screw pick a part... anyone finding any cheaper prices out there? o can you post some pics of how the cable hooks up to your pedal? someone before said they had to modify their 240z one to get it to fit.

that car is f'ugly...

don't forget the 2000gt. and kpgc10's.

do you have mixed and matched parts? what year strut isolators are you running and with what struts? maybe you bought the wrong springs for the parts you are running. I think I have the same springs as you got and my car has a nice rake to it: I obviously have 280 isolators all the way around, but i think my springs were cut on the front... -Oliver

yeah your missing a big one, you should make it your flagship car or something... 2000gt very important...

Today, I did a pretty hard launch in my car from 3000rpms. It was a good launch and all, but afterwards I noticed that the grinding sound I usually hear only in 4th or 5th gear was happening in all gears and anytime the clutch was let out. I think I already posted about this before, but it didn't sound as loud. If anyone wants to hear it I can send you a "media message" on your cell phone since I don't know how to upload a cell phone recorded thing. this sound is louder than my engine on the recording I took of it, so that should give you a pretty good idea of why this has become post-worthy (to me at least) Tomorrow I will get the oil changed and see if that makes any diffference, because I have a suspicion that it may be low gear oil. I'm crossing my fingers that that will fix it :/ anyone want to tell me what they think is going on in the tranny?

Wait, I installed the tightly wound part of the spring towards the bottom. Is that worse than if I had it on top?

I don't know what eibachs you used, but i got some progressive rate ones, used... I put the shorter ones in the front and the progressive rate (also the taller ones) in the back. I figured the springs needed to be set up like this because the ones I took out were exactly the same height, so I decided the front would have to be lower than the back (for proper stance) yeah yours have to be reversed.

I'm considering getting 17's now. Those wheels fit perfectly in the fenders. Now my 2 inches of wheel gap will look REALLY ugly to me... nice job!!!

The dremmel idea sounds like it would work, but ONLY as a temporary fix. I would not drive around in a car with something like that. (if i knew about it at least) Your only problem is going to be keeping the shavings out from the rest of the valve area. I don't know about the coil

fun program hehe Im watching you.

I agree with PopnWood Nothing is moving, and the only way a clutch will start slipping is if YOU are slipping it too much. i.e. Holding the car on a hill in gear by slipping the clutch, Dropping the clutch from high rpms several times, resting your foot on the clutch as you drive in gear... etc. bimmer man... say you did carry something to put behind the tire. Would you just leave it there when you drove off?

I believe the problem is FUEL pooling in the intake manifold, since Nitrous Oxide is non-flammable. It wouldn't do harm if the nitrous oxide pooled in the intake manifold. -Oliver

no the 240sx tb does not have bcdd. You should check to make sure it is the bcdd problem first before you start changing parts, only to be dissapointed... (speaks from experience...) lol -oliver

yeah it had the 6 spoke zx wheels. and he had his bumpers on too.

Don't use rubber! use metal bushings, It will keep the shifter moving in more of the pattern that it is created by the shifter. The rubber will allow the shifter to "squish" its way out of the normal path. The closer the shifter stays to its original path, the easier it will be to guide it along this plate you are making.

I know this is HYBRIDZ and all, but z heritage says there should be a 6 in there from factory... what you do after the factory is another story... besides, what would be the fun in having a pre-made hybridz?

first of all is it fuel injected? if so check the bcdd (boost controlled deceleration device) under the throttle. There is a nut to adjust it where you can set it so that it is not functional anymore. If it only happens with the brakes applied, check the brake booster for leaks. -Oliver