olie05

I bench bled the MC and all the lines, and the MC once on the car, but I think another bleed may fix it. If you think about it, what could be happening, is that air in the system is compressing and then when I hit the pedal again, more fluid is pushed in through the lines, and this time, instead of compressing the air it actually moves the pistons on the calipers. Ill post again after I bleed again. thanks for the speedy replies! -Oliver

I just went out to do a quick test since I realized I probably did not post enough information. Car off- first pump was hard and went down to just above the accelerator pedal. That same level was consistent for every pump after that. This does change if you have JUST turned the car off, and It will act as if the car was on. Car on - Pedal goes down to the floor with first push while trying to do an emergency stop, and on second push (if done right after the first push) does have enough travel to lock up the (front) wheels. There is also a clicking sound comming from the left rear drum everytime I hit the brakes, no matter how I actually hit them. Hope that helps to diagnose the problem! -Oliver

Hello, I have replaced my master cylinder and booster with remanufactured units, booster has about 1 year on it, and MC has about 2 months. The problem I have been having, even with proper bleeding, is that the brake pedal will go down on the first initial push, to about 2 or 3 inches below the accelerator pedal. On the second push of the pedal, if done relatively quickly after it has been released from the inital push, the pedal will only travel down to about an inch above the accelerator. From all the searching I have done, I have come up with a few possible problems with my brakes, (i.e. reaction disk, rear adjusters...) but I want to hear what you all have to say about this problem. Thanks!! -Oliver

How 'bout the 24 or 22? or perhaps the weekend of the 17? I don't want to do the 23 because i got tickets to this thing i can't miss. (if everyone is ok with not doing it on the 23, I really want to attend this tentative meet!!) I'll be holdin' up the rear with the slowest z in houston lol... -Oliver

I think its that your friend can't drive.

so with these things you don't need lightbulbs behind the gauges anymore?

AEM ems is full standalone.

looks like a porsche. I don't really see too much z influence in it. Great porsche though!

i don't see anything...

you should really try to get out to your local race shop, and even a local "ricer" shop, somewhere where you can sit in their seats, and maybe take measurements in person. Sometimes you can hagle too... -Oliver

Jon, how did you decide what degree layback you wanted? I see their options are 20* and 10*...?

have you read the zcar.com article? http://www.zcar.com/articles/twheel/4spdauto/ I dont' know anything about autos, and from what i understand alot of people on here don't care for the stock z ones... so info will probalby be limited. I would search over at zcar.com for past threads. -Oliver

yeah i definitely spent a good our and a half rehoning those cylinders. I went slow with a spring loaded 3 stone honing tool (powered by a drill). I tried to copy what my cylinders looked like when i was rebuilding my l6 after i got it back from the machine shop. (i got it pretty damn close) and i tried to do it with the least amount of material removed as possible. The clearance between the pistons and the cylinders is not as tight as when i rebuilt my engine with matching cylinder sizes and pistons (.040" overbore), but i can live with that

there was a recent thread on hooking up a launch control device through the MS box, or using the MS itself. -Oliver

theres nothing all-wheel-drive about that...

lol yes, this is my 3rd engine build, and I know how piston rings are supposed to fit in to the grooves... Either way, I ended up buying new pistons, and the rings just slipped right in, so I think the old pistons' ring grooves closed up somehow and became "out of spec and unusable" just wanted to update on what happened with this thing... The car made it all the way from houston to lubbock with no problems! feel free to post comments! -Oliver

Congrats!!! engine sounds smooth... and the car looks sexy!! -Oliver

well, the v8 is a better candidate for your intentions, because it places the mass of the engine as far back and down as it will go. An inline 6 will have a higher and more forward center of mass relative to the car. If you're going with an all aluminum v8, then the weight difference over an all aluminum I-6 doesn't even come into play. there is some info on the pros and cons of each swap. try searching again, but more for info on each seperate swap instead of a comparison. -Oliver

wow, you really got that exhaust to fit in there. When i saw the size of that elbow i thought it was going to be impossible, but it looks like you have room to spare. good job! -Oliver

whats wrong with pink and purple in the first place, eh?

yeah, i drove the car around a little more, and found out that the system is getting 16 volts at 3,000 rpm. I remember this problem was happening last time my regulator went out, so i will be replacing that this afternoon. Ill post the results.

So, i just finished rebuilding my sisters eclipse engine and i was all ready to fire the car up, but I had no good battery. So I pulled up my z and gave the eclipse a boost. Durring that boost, my friend notices that the tach in the z is going crazy, like dropping to 0 rpms and then kicking back up, but all the while the engine remains at a constant idle. Also, the car would keep blowing the 10 amp fuel gauge fuse. (im guessing because the tach was doing such crazy stuff.) After that, my tachometer would read double and never give me an accurate measurement of what the engine was doing. It even seemed to be that the car was running on the battery alone. I took the car to autozone, and they couldn't determine if it was the alternator or the voltage regulator. I took the alternator off and tested it by itself and it was only putting out 3 amps! I put in a new alternator and everything works again! It even fixed the problem i had before where the "charge" light would never turn off, and the voltmeter reads around 14 volts where before it would read really close to 16 volts. EXCEPT... there was a wierd problem, because i was at a stop light (after i installed the new alternator) and i heard some relays clicking under the dash and the engine shut off... but it started right up with no problem. I'm going to drive the car around tomorrow and see if it happens again. either way, i just wanted to report what happened, because when i searched for "double" and "tach" and all other tach related problems, i didn't come up with anything, so hopefully this will help someone in the future. BTW this is on a 1977 280z. -Oliver

lol but seriously though...