COZY Z COLE

This quote should be a sticky on all the tech. forums. LARRY

I have the 80ZX FSM and in the engine fuel section under Trouble Shooting there's a section called.. Engine hard to start only when hot. It indicates to check the cold start value and the thermotime switch. If your 82 FSM doesn't have this section I can post how to check them. A faulty cold start valve would be spraying excess fuel into a hot engine therefore causing trouble in starting it as opposed to a cold engine start. LARRY

I have the 20th Anniversary Edition but don't know what year. Here goes.... "instant" flares--- $99.95 front pair. $99.95 rear pair. Street flares--- $109.95 front pair $109.95 rear pair Imsa style----- same price as above ZG flares------ set of four $199.95 LOL, posted this a little late...... LARRY

This is the key statement. The fan will not come on when you shut the car off unless the water temp is 220 deg. or greater and this includes the 79 and 80's models. This is true if everything is working right... LARRY

My engine build.... AFR 195 race ported heads. Comp Cam bee hive springs. Comp Cam 1.6 Pro Magnum roller rockers. Cometic .040 head gaskets. Special machined spring locaters. .512 lift The engine was balanced / blueprinted and has 8.5-1 comp. in a 355 SBC with the 144 WEIAND blower at 10 lbs. boost. Forged steel crankshaft 3.480 stroke. Forged TRW blower pistons 4.030. Engel custom hyd. roller cam. Plasma - Moly rings. Ignition system MSD 6 BTM. Blaster SS coil, Pro Billet Distr. Holley 700 cmf Supercharger DP carb. Mallory Race Comp. 5 ported adj. fuel reg. IMO forget those O rings. LARRY

Jason, is this the same engine you have the roots blower on???? If I remenmber right you were going to up the boost from the stock blower setting. I personally would never put that blower on a crate engine. I spent the $$$ on my engine before running my blower at 10lbs. boost and I am Damn glad I did..... LARRY

280Zone posted in your Showcase thread that he had that type hood ready to ship. Did you look at his product??? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101130 LARRY

lol... Keep posting. I've "clicked" every link in this thread even though my real tastes are stuck a few decades ago... LARRY

I think Cal Trans should buy that to keep I-80 open at Donners Summit in the winter.... LARRY

Those two cars would be perfect canidates for the "wind tunnel" project... LARRY

If this is the car you are talking about it's a R-33. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190071298625&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RUPX_BID_Stores_IT&refitem=190068845964&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=UpSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget LARRY

Is this the Jason you are asking about???? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118045 LARRY

Works for me... Sounds good and great job... LARRY

I suggest you stop a minute and read this thread and the link provided in Jon's post....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118064 . If I was you I'd buy a stock Z first and get a feel for the car and then search all the tech. forums for upgrades to your Z. Make a plan with a budget and start gathering parts so that when you have them all you can execute the plan in a hopefully smooth flow. LARRY

"Since 1984, Utahns in the densely populated Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, and Weber counties have taken their cars in for mandatory emissions testing every two years. Utah is unique in that it requires smog checks only in the counties that are the worse offenders, due to the number of cars they have on the road, rather than requiring these tests statewide." The above statement is from the Utah DMV site. As I read it if you have a car registered in any county except the above four there is no smog test done....Damn.... LARRY

I used Drive Line Service of Concord on my driveshaft work for my R-230 conv. Fast and exc. work....http://www.driveline-service.com/index2.ivnu LARRY

I've run a MSD6-BTM on my 144 Weiand blower/SBC set-up at 10lbs boost with no problems for four years. If someone else is running a roots blower with boost timing retard using another companies box I wish they would post their info.... LARRY

Welcome to the world of Z'S. Datsun/Nissan was famous for switching parts and wiring during model years. The wiring diagrams are just a snap shot during a model year. You sometimes have to use 2 or more different year wiring diagrams to match your car. The key is to find your car's parts in the wiring diagrams. To add further confusion to this sometimes they used different colored wires than are on any diagrams. The purists go nuts trying to match their vin number/build date to what was suppose to come with it. You have series changes and early/late model changes that add to this mix. And even with factory cut-off changes they wanted to use up old inventory so you really have some "hybrid" stock Z's out there. LARRY

Have you read this thread yet? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117630 LARRY

Actually the serial numbering system they used is more interesting than what Tony posted. The first 75 280Z had a serial number of 200001. http://datsunzclub.com/page5.html LARRY

You are correct. This may help. LARRY

Replace the 20A wiper fuse... 2nd down on the left side of the fuse box. Next do you have intermitten wiper option? Do you have 2 or 3 white dots on the wiper switch knob? 3 dots mean you have the intermitten wiper option. If you do the relay that controls the wipe cycle is usually on the motor and not on the kick panel. Answer this and we'll go from there. LARRY

Let's see if we can get you going in the right direction. After you have the wiper motor wired turn the ignition switch on and turn the wiper switch on and cycle the motor a few times. Turn the wiper motor off with the wiper switch, not the ignition switch. It will be in the down psition. Then turn the igniition off. As to your wiper motor wires.... Black- Ground Blue- Combo switch Blue. Blue/Yellow- Combo switch Blue/Yellow Blue/White- Combo switch Blue/White Blue/Red- Goes to the Blue/Red on the Ignition switch. It is not a direct circuit. Refer to Fig.'s 7&8 in the following link. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80.jsp LARRY

LOL... You didn't get the wrong impression. Every speed shop, engine builder, tire shop, muffler shop, ect. gave me that feeling. I usually was asked, "What shop did that to your car?" LARRY