510six

A 2.5 mandrel exhaust and a 40 series Flowmaster.

I took a vid of my motor during startup with very rough ignition and fuel maps.It`s still great to hear it run, can`t wait to drive it with the boost turned up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzYiq9-i3NY

I would contact http://www.webcamshafts.com/ they have a couple of different grinds that you can use with stock valve springs.The regrind is only $158 but you will need either new or resurfaced rockers and thicker lash pads.I see no problem in your meeting your 300rwh goal with your setup. My old SDS ,MSD BTM with a C26 turbo made 275rwh with WEBS largest turbo grind at 12 psi of boost, this was a 3 liter with a liquid /air IC with some mild port work and a modified exhaust manifold and 65mm TB.With a mild turbo cam I see closer to 400rwh running the boost levels your talking about.I would be more concerned about breaking a stock bottom end than making 300rwh, which should be NP.

I just pulled a crank dampner of my LD28 cranked L30 stroker and it was a stock L28 dampner bolt, but I had to chase the threads after using a puller to get the dampner off.

You know I just threw a set of them away when I grabbed the crank out of a core motor LD28.I`ll check and see if a friend can sourse a set.

I had to do quite a bit of reseach on sensors to make my AEM EMS trigger correctly.A VR sensor is just a very small generator and at low rpm puts out a very small (less than 1 volt) while a hall effect and the Nissan optical trigger both put out a 5 volt square wave signal.An EDIS module is setup for recieving a signal from a VR sensor then converts it to a square wave signal.If your 36-1 wheel is in the distributor then it needs to be a 60-2 wheel as the dist runs at half crank speed.

Do you have a turbo opticaly triggered crank postion distributor or a Stock zx VR sensor dist?The regular N/A dist. has a bad habit of the bushing in the distibutor wearing out to the point that the VR sensor comes into contact with the reluctor wheel and the car won`t start with a magic wand.I had a replacement bushing made out of teflon impregnated delron.If it`s the optical trigger it`s possible that the bearing in the distributor has worn to the point of replacement.

If you`ll look on this site there is a kit for conversion of Autometer A/F gauge in a true WBO2 gauge. http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=116

http://www.10000rpm.com/ I have one of their double plate clutches.It`s a really nicely made unit.

What I learned running large shots of nitrous is that with the bottle pressure typically being 900-1100 psi and the fuel pressure on a wet system being between 6-60psi depending on the fuel pump.What do you think is going to hit the cylinder first?(Dyno dataloggs with the dyno`s WBO2 and my own Tech Edge WB02 confirm this ) N20 will always reach a cylinder first and the pressure from the time the N20 solenoid opens and closes can vary as much as 100psi(also dattaloged at the solenoid) which means that with a wet systems jetting a rich condition to compensate for the initial opening of the solenoid so it`s rich after the pressure drops.With the fuel being added at the fuel injector the whole fuel map can be the desired air/fuel ratio and the fuel reaches the cylinder before the N20.The racers that I have talked to who run really large shots of N20 with carbs run an accelerator pump large enough to compensate for the initial pressure spike at the N20 solenoid.That`s why I went with an EFI system that one could run the fuel for the N20 via the fuel injectors and two was flexible enough to follow the desired air/fuel curve and give controll over retarding the timing that`s flexible as well. http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp

The universal AEM EMS has provisions for automatic transmission controll.They also have some pretty pretty trick features for traction controll.

Hey, that`s what ear plugs are for...You should take a ride in my car.

I didn`t mean to offend anyone, personally I have run well over 400 hard drag runs on nitrous and managed not to destroy a all JY parts L28/3 liter stroker with a direct port setup with a 120hp shot to the wheels and tuned with a regular O2 sensor and an EGT gauge.The second N20 turbo setup was a built 3 liter stroker with a Japanese Engine exchange $90 ct26 turbo with a 200rwh shot of N20 tuned with a friends high dollar Horiba wb02.I ran over 200 runs on this setup before a broken wire to the dedicated nitrous fuel pump and a bad low fuel pressure switch ruined my day.I can`t say enough about seting up a nitrous sytem usings proper safegaurd I have no doubt that they saved my motor numerous times.Even if a wet "kit" were used the cool thing about the MS is that the safety systems are already in the software...full throttle switch, rpm window switch,a coolant temp switch and being able to retard your timing are all built in the only thing I would add is a clutch switch to disable the N20 when the clutch is engaged. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=15c7&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/album?.dir=63ef&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/my_photos If your near California and want to line up at the track I`d look forward to it.BTW I drove my car to the track on that day.

It is scary how fast a motor will rev once a shot of nitrous is activated.What I noticed in the Mega tune software was it incorperates a full throttle switch an RPM window switch and a coolant temp switch and will retard timing.A switch that is external from the computer will activate the other VE tabel so having to switch setting via a laptop isn`t an issue.Just hitting only a button on a wet sytem is a really easy way to damage a motor.Tuning N20 with a WB02 is just like any other air/fuel ratio just make sure your settings are rich then back it down to a safe 11-8 to 11-9 just make sure to run good fuel.The bottle pressure can be set between 900-1100 psi and still work fine.I have busted several R180 stub axels with sticky tires on the drag strip I would stick with a welded R200.

http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/tech%20bulletins/tb_top_10.pdf The CDI unit provides multiple sparks below 3000rpm but delivers a much hotter spark at all rpm ranges, it`s a very healthy spark as I have been shocked by one.I would suggest running somekind of CDI unit with above about an 80hp shot to the wheels.Keep in mind that for every 50 hp shot you wil have to reduce timing by 2*.

Well to run a "smart" auto tranny you would need an EFI system capable of telling the tranny what to do. http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp A late model 300zxtt tranny would work.

I ran a 120 HP shot to the wheels on an all junkyard parts 3 liter stroker that was well built.The problems that I had was that the stock 225mm clutch will not handle the shock load that the N20 puts on it.Also an MSD 6A should be used as the combustion pressures of nitrous tend to Blow the spark out.If you can add the fuel via your fuel injectyors I would do so with the Mega squirt as this is really the idea way of adding fuel for N20 and another fuel system doesn`t have to be plumbed.I would talk to other Megasquirt users who have run a "dry" N20 system.Dyno tune sells nitrous sytem components for much less than NOS. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/NOSTech3.html http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/ http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Scripts/default.asp

You could get away with running over 10psi with methanol/water injection, of course it`s just a chemical intercooler.

My last motor with forged pistons and an N33 head was right at 8-1 with a 1mm NISMO head gasket.The current setup uses an N42 head that has been ported and ceramic coated and the comp is 8.5-1 with forged pistons and a 1mm head gasket. With the ceramic coating combustion chamber heat is more evenly distributed.You might want to look into a methanol injection kit in addition to your intercooler to help with detonation . http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=2b09.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=d75c.jpg&.src=ph http://www.coolingmist.com/

If your looking feature to feature the AEM EMS is hard to beat. the boost per MPH and not having to buy a electronic boost controller(AEM uses a $40 GM boost solenoid for controll).I was sold on the system after seeing several Hondas and a couple of Vortech fed Mustangs use the AEM EMS.Plus I plan on running a small shot of N20 to spool the turbo and the ability to add the fuel for the Nitrous via the fuel injectors and just the flexability of the system to do things like pulse a methanol injection solenoid on a port injected setup per lb of boost and be able to fine tune an almost unlimited # of boost settings sold me on the system.

I run stock half shafts with Nissan soild U joints, I have not broken one of the U joints but I cracked an axel in half launching on slicks.The Neapco units worked until running with slicks on a really sticky track, then they were powdered metal.535rwh 490fpt 10.96@127.76.

I put that right up there with other must have items...such as the fake nitrous purge and blow off valve sound alike speaker.You can have all the sounds and looks of a fast car without all that annoying HP.

A couple of single foggers should be OK.Just rember to setup a N20 system correctly as doing it wrong or bypassing saftey can/will ruin your day.

My question to you would be "how big of a shot are you going with"?This would determine if a couple of single foggers would work.

The Autozone pump is a Melling,it`s a cast iron unit and the one I have on my car works great.