Namor

It definitely does. I figured that was basically the case. If I hadn't seen so many swaps mention it, I wouldn't have even thought twice about it. Thanks!

Alright, I am getting ready to drop an L28et from an 82 into my 77 280z. I am also using the BW T5 but I am keeping the original 3.54 R200. It has the round input flange on it, but almost any swap I have read says to swap to the rectangular one and have the driveshaft shortened or a new one made. I plan on having a driveshaft made and figured I could just have it made with the proper ends to match the T5 and my round R200 flange. However, before I do I would like to know is the rectangular turbo flange actually any stronger or is it used because it makes shortening the turbo driveshaft a possibility? I think I remember reading that the round one uses 8mm bolts and the rectangular one uses 10mm bolts, is this right? In short, should I source a rectangular flange before I have a driveshaft made?

I found similar adapters from Brakequip. BQ50 were what I got. They have a lot of other adapters as well too.

Good to know.

Is that Zinc plating or Cadmium plating? I thought Zinc plating was silver and Cadmium was the gold/green/purple color of the stuff you posted.

Doesn't welding with carbon steel wire defeat the purpose of using stainless pipes?

DOH! Thanks. #1 on your list is the answer. Both MC and booster have been off the car for a significant period of time and in that time apparently I forgot about that. It was sitting in bag in a bin about 15ft away.

I got the Wilwood master and a new booster. However, the pushrod is too long and I can't adjust it. I have read that you can use shims to fix it, but it is right at 4mm too long and I don't think I want to shim it that much. Before I go hacking at my new booster to shorten the pushrod, anyone have any recommendations? Oh and here is a picture in case I am being stupid and it is adjustable but I just fail to see how.

Are those 5 times due to breaking it?

Is this not what you need? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_tie-rod-end-rare-parts_20512390-p?searchTerm=tie+rod#fragment-2

Find a reputable shop to fix it. They are likely going to have to reconstruct the top bit of your strut towers and then weld the camber plates on. Think about it like this, the weight of your car is resting on 4 points; all of which have been hacked up and filled in with a mig welder by someone who is obviously less than skilled. How long before those camber plates give out and your struts introduce themselves to your hatch or hood?

With a new car this is fairly easy question to research and answer because of the uniformity between 1 car to the next. That isn't the case with our Datsuns. Suspension components, age, vehicle weight, and any specific clearance issues unique to your car will have to be considered (just like your exhaust.) You should be able to figure out the wheel specs fairly easily though. I do also think this problem is exacerbated by use of drag slicks. I have heard the variances between 1 tire to the next is larger with drag slicks, that could be BS I was told though.

How does an Agreed Value Policy work with a car being totaled and buying it back? Ex. If State Farm/Geico/Progressive totaled my car out and I could buy it back for $1000, is it likely to be the same for an Agreed Value Policy? Or is there no way to reacquire the car once it has been totaled under an agreed value policy?

2011 GTI Here. After a turbo swap, intake, exhaust and intercooler upgrade I'm now probably somewhere above 300whp (based on advertised numbers from the company who does my tune and Dynos from other people with similar mods) I love my hatchback. If the Focus ST had been out when I was car shopping, I may have given it a chance.

Damn, Just the answer I wasn't hoping for. These are the times when I wish I had my own fabrication tools (english wheel, shrinker/stretcher, sheet metal brake). I guess I will just continue searching for someone locally who can do what I need.

Is this the rear valence you are talking about? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7240 If you didn't use that, what did you use? Did you just use sheet metal bent to fit? If so, what type of place did you get it from? My car's rear end was pretty rusted and I planned on going with a shaved rear so I have been looking around town to find someone who can produce a panel like that (except smooth) without any luck. I'd really rather not spend $250 on that panel if I can help it.

Sweet mother of ... I'm guessing you will be running somewhere around a 355 width but how wide can you actually go on a 14" wheel? Oh and you say relatively cheap tires, but in this case what does that really mean? Pure curiosity here, although the rear of that car does look awesome.

The fitment was similar on mine. You will just need to cut/bend and modify them. At the rear, I re-cut the corners further forward and then bent the center down to get a tighter fit. In the front, It was really just a matter of "persuasion" to get a relatively tight fit. Honestly I never even thought twice about it because weld in parts will rarely have a tight fit all the way around. Just got a Tabco rear quarter patch panel and its the same story. Oh and on the passenger side I replaced the rail itself with a Zedd Findings rail. The front fit better on the passenger side, I don't really remember the back. It's definitely not worth cutting the rail out unless you have to. Just modify and be done with it.

Yeah, I would buy that it will be stronger. I guess the real question would be how much stronger. I don't plan on tracking my car, so I think the added stiffness would largely go unnoticed. I also wouldn't want to have to explain to everyone who gets in my car why there is a bump in the floorboard. But I hope it works out well for you.

Maybe its an optical illusion but are your floors actually lower than the top of the framerails? Basically, are you going to have a raised portion down the middle of both the passenger and driver sides where the frame rail is?

The longer of the two brake lines is for the passenger side and the shorter one is for the driver side. The passenger side should have a Male M10x1.0 Inverted Flare on the end The driver side if I remember correctly is a different fitting with an adapter to be Female M10x1.0 Inverted Flare. The passenger side brake line is designed to reach directly to the Tee above the diff. It should thread directly into the Tee. For the driver side, you will need a hardline to go from the Tee to where it will connect with the stainless steel flexible line.

After many many hours battling with mine, the solution ended up being a gallon of PB Blaster (I didn't even know they sold it by the gallon until then) and a paint tray. 1. Cut the spindle pins to separate the strut housing from the control arm 2. Fill paint tray with PB Blaster and soak the strut housing for a couple days (I did mine for 3-4 days each just to be sure) 3. Commence removal of spindle pins by your preferred method I had probably spent somewhere between 40-80 hours total on my spindle pins before this (probably closer to 80 if you count driving around to shop after shop trying to get someone to press them out) and I don't think I ever even got mine to move AT ALL. I had finally taken them to a guy with a 15ton press who would try. He used an impact socket on top of the pin to press it through and just ended up destroy his socket. That was the point at which I was like "FML, I hope I don't have to buy new strut housings with the pins already removed" Then I got this tip from a guy who worked at a transmission shop who had similar issues and when I told him what it was for he laughed.