Namor

I have a 255 lph External Walbro ( I'm about 99% sure it is this one, but I would have to double check http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl392-inline-fuel-255lph-pump.html ) and a Carter P4070 that I use as a lift pump since the Walbro would get real loud as my tank level got low. I will let them both go for $85 shipped. Also, Greeko, that pump isn't 282lph, it is 43 gph, which is close to 160 lph. The 282 is lbm/hr

Interestingly enough, they don't have the left side. I guess I will be placing two orders. Unfortunately their shipping cost is insane, oh well. Thanks I guess I will also be hoping that one of the two sites doesn't have them listed backwards.

Looking for OEM brake shims for stock front brakes on S30. Brake squeal is driving me nuts, and the only place that I have even seen them (MSA) doesn't have the right side ones. What I am looking for can be seen here. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5450 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5451

I will likely be removing mine in a month or so. So if you still haven't found one by April, let me know.

Yep, that's exactly what you are missing.

I used the same method when I removed my undercoating, except I got dry ice in pellet form (little cylinders about 1" long and 1/2" diameter) so I didn't have to crush it up. I got mine through a connection at a shipping company which specializes in temperature sensitive deliveries.

I could do $65 shipped. I'd need to find the right sized box though, I'll see if I can come up with one today. paypal jared.shaffer@gmail.com

I've got one, but it didn't fit well in my car so I modified it a little bit. I'll get a couple pictures and if you are interested I'll figure out how much it will cost to ship. The two welds are where I cut most of the way through, bent it to close the gap and welded it back together to get the fitment better in my car.

Oh I'm definitely a believer in "Give the engine what it wants." The main source of information I have been going from is two books by Greg Banish and he essentially says you want to be around stoich, but some things might prevent you from being able to get a stable idle there (such as an aggressive camshaft or batch fire vs sequential) Since I am running a stock camshaft and have converted to fully sequential, I'm going to stick with what I have found that allows me to idle around stoich. I was just curious if anyone else had tuned theirs similarly. As for the book by Matt Cramer, I'd buy it, but...I actually already have it (I honestly forgot I had it, just walked over to the bookshelf to double check before ordering.) I read it cover to cover a while back but found more in-depth information in the books by Greg Banish.

I have an L28ET and I am having issues dialing in my idle. I have been running right around 20* of timing at idle per the service manual and my idle is around 850rpm (no IAC, so it varies). The car idles well if I have it set rich (lambda of ~.9 or less) but if I lean it out, it starts getting random misfires when I get close to lambda of 1, maybe 1 misfire per second or so. These misfires aren't enough to cause RPMs to noticeably drop, but it causes my AFR to jump around and frankly it just sounds bad. My ignition map is setup so that I Idle in a "valley" and just testing, I decided to take a bunch of timing out, so I lowered all the blocks around where I idle by 10* and my misfire issue went away. At this point, I plan to leave my timing down around 10* because I care how my car runs, not what a book says. I'm just curious if this is something anyone has run into before? What timing is everyone else running at idle? I figured everyone just set theirs to 20* +/- 3* per the service manual, but now I am thinking maybe not. MS3x Fully Sequential Injection 450cc injectors (B450L DSM Blue Tops) w/ resistors Stock FPR Wasted Spark Ignition Trigger Wheel from DiyAutoTune

The TTT strut bar looks like it could work if mounted the bar is in front of the strut towers instead of behind, if possible. That would put the bar in front of the compressor housing and over top of the inlet piping.

Someone else was interested in the doing the same, I messed around with my knock sensor and posted the results here. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125103-hooking-up-stock-280zx-knock-sensor-to-megasquirt/ I don't have the knock module, but I'm fairly certain you would be able to use the stock sensor.

As has been mentioned the only effect will be reducing grip in the front due to the more narrow tires. The height of the front tires will have basically no impact at all since the car isn't AWD and there aren't any modern electronics like ABS/TPMS/etc.

Just take the current driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and tell them to change out the transmission slip yoke for the transmission you are going to use and how long you want it to be.

I just saw this video and figured someone here might be interested in trying it out.

Hmm, that seems shitty. My guess is that the rule was really intended for suspensions where the axle is used to locate the wheel laterally in place of an upper control arm, which isn't the case on the Z since the upper strut mount does that. I think even building a mock one would take some careful measuring, since you would want to make sure it doesn't bind during travel. I don't have a solution for you, but good luck.

I'm confused, I thought it was the s130 that had trailing or semi-trailing arms and what the s30 has is considered a variation of a macpherson strut or chapman strut.

How is your fuel pump mounted and how much gas did you have in the tank? I had issues of leaning out when my tank would get low due to my walbro not being able to pull enough fuel. I found it by adding a fuel pressure sensor and logging it.

I might have one I could let go, If you are interested. I'll have to check. *edit* Just checked and it is warped in one spot (where the combination switch bullet connectors are, I'm guessing from a high resistance connection there heating up) I've added photos. If you want it, I'll send it your way if you pay for the shipping.

That's what I would really like to know

Interesting, I wouldn't have expected a differential gear style.

It's just electric assist, right? It would be the same as if you lost your power steering, you could still control the vehicle, it would just take more effort.

Did you remove the hood Torsion springs or leave them installed?

I'm also curious as to how well this stuff works. I tried to find where someone had tested it in a more controlled manner than "I installed it and it worked" but the only thing I found was some idiot holding a blowtorch directly to a piece of sheet metal with it applied. I might end up picking some up and testing it myself.

I think it would have to be pretty thick to provide downforce and hold its shape. Essentially that bend alone has to stand up to whatever downforce is applied and depending on speed (and obviously spoiler design) I think downforce can get up over 100lbs or possibly a lot more. I also think the mount would need to extend pretty far up the hatch opening sides to be able to handle the force.