Namor

I recently did this as well, and for popping the glass back into the new housing I used a heat gun to make the housing more pliable. My goal was to heat it up slightly more than if I had sat it out in the sun on a hot summer day. I made sure to keep the heat gun moving and checked the temperature with my hand frequently. The little bit I heated it up made all the difference as it slid in relatively easily.

Clamp off the line going to the wastegate actuator and take it for a spin to see how quickly it builds boost then. With the wastegate stuck shut, it should build boost quickly, just be careful and let off whenever boost gets high.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-tie-holders/=yh9ass push mount style with some zip ties. If you need to undo it, just cut the zip tie and use a new one.

It's coming back now. I started to do this but realized this actually isn't the case. If you look at the mounting locations for the hinges, you will see the bolt holes for the hinges aren't the same from one side to the other since one has the locking mechanism and the other doesn't.

I can't remember the specifics, but I remember that I was unable to swap the driver and passenger seats in my car. It might have been that the mounts are off center on the seats to move the seats closer to the center of the car, but that is a hazy guess.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If an injector is stuck open, your fuel pressure will drop to 0 immediately when the fuel pump stops. If you don't have a gauge then I would let the fuel pump cycle a bit by turning the ignition on and off a couple times and then wait a minute and loosen a fuel line. If a little fuel sprays out, then you don't have a stuck injector.

There are literally hundreds of things that could be preventing your car from starting. Have you checked the basics? Fuel, Spark and air? If you know you are getting all three, then need to dive deeper and make sure they are timed properly and of sufficient quantity. To get any help from anyone else you need to include more info. What injectors? Batch fire? Sequential? Semi sequential? Are you using the distributor for spark or have you converted to multiple coils? What trigger wheel are you using? Are you certain you have your dizzy signal wires hooked up properly? Include a composite log Include every little piece of information you can. As for MAP, it's going to read around 100 when the car isn't running because that is about what atmospheric is. When running, mine drops to about 25 kpa (which is somewhere around 22" of vacuum) but I'm not sure what it is when just being turned over by the starter.

Would you mind posting a picture or a link to the product you used? This is something I have been considering doing but wasn't sure how I wanted to do it. Right now I have a ton of stuff running to a single ground point and it is a pain if I need to remove one.

While shielding may help, others have not had this issue and it would have done nothing for me. As it turns out, mine was due to my wideband sensor. I guess when i saw it stable it was already up to temp and wasn't cycling the internal heater. When it was heating up, the ripple existed even when I measured only the 5v supply with no sensors attached to it. Once I grounded it to the same ground the ECU uses, then the ripple was completely gone and TPS/MAP readings were rock steady.

I had this issue but haven't even really started tuning my car yet. I just went and tapped off the sensor return and TPS wires to measure voltage, and then clocked the TPS with the throttle closed until I got into the band you stated and tighten it down. It's rock steady now. I'm curious why this isn't in any of the megasquirt documentation because it doesn't seem like it is equipment specific. I think I spoke too soon. When running, it fluctuates which I think is due to a ~.1v ripple in the 5v supply. I'm not sure what can be done about that.

Since the term SUV has been around?

I'm going to say that mine was. I tried to have it pressed out with a 15 or 20 ton press, and it broke whatever the guy was using to press on it with (I had cut it flush so that I could carry just the spindle to the machine shop.) This was after heating the spindle up with oxy/acet to a glowing red color. Turned away from multiple machine shops and what eventually what did the trick was soaking the whole thing in PB blaster in a paint tray (completely submerged) for about 3-4 days. Even then it took quite a pounding with a sledge hammer to come out and took about an hour. *edit* I guess mine were level 4 lol I should also say, that just spraying penetrant fluid on was not enough. I was spraying it multiple times a day to try to get it in there good, with absolutely no progress. It took complete submersion before I saw the slightest movement from the pin.

I think the question that needs to be answered is, why? What is the intended application? Is it for the street, drag racing, road racing? Air to water intercoolers do work, and I'm sure an A/C system could refrigerate a coolant reservoir. This would certainly work for short bursts of WOT where the A/C compressor gets shut off but to really know if it would work for extended periods at WOT, you need to figure some numbers out like efficiency of Air-to-Water intercoolers and A/C systems. Expected intake temperature before and after addition of this system...etc Personally I think in the end, you would be adding a significant amount of complexity for a minimal gain(if even a gain) in horsepower. I don't think this is a new concept, and I think it isn't used for a reason.

Probably because the potential downsides outweigh the gains. Personally, I just go to a local gas station that sells ethanol free for anything seasonal. It's quite a bit more expensive, but it is worth it to me.

The original driveshaft has non-replaceable u-joints, you aren't going to be able to buy this and just slap it onto the driveshaft. I would talk to a driveshaft shop and see what they have to say.

1500 watts would be 107 amps @ 14v. I don't know what kind of alternator you have, but that is a huge draw. The stock alternator is only 60amps, right?

I don't think that is true where I live. Pretty much all of the gang boxes in my house are plastic. Besides, that is for personnel safety, you don't have to worry about that with a 12vdc circuit. That relay box looks amazing though.

With enough work you can make anything fit. If you don't know the size or even that it is DBW, why do you want to install it?

If you stick the proper maintenance interval, you should definitely perform the fluid change/flush. The problem is when it has been neglected, then the flush can do (and often does) more harm than good. As for a manual, there is no good reason that I know of to not do it. It sounds like they just made a blanket decision based on data from automatic transmissions.

If an automatic transmission is starting to fail and has never had a fluid change, changing the fluid can wreak havoc on it and cause it to be much worse (I'm guessing because a flush dislodges stuff which then clogs up passages.) They likely get a lot of people who think that getting a fluid flush will fix their problem and then try to blame it on Firestone when it actually gets worse. This happened with my first car, but the mechanic was a friend's dad and he warned me that it might happen and sure enough it did.

Don't forget he is in Alabama. I know I wouldn't need it in my floor and unless it cost next to nothing to add, I wouldn't bother.

When I installed my BDFRs, I replaced the passenger side floor and frame rail because they were rusted (replaced with rail and floor from Zedd Findings) and then capped the stock driver's side and Zedd Findings passenger rail with the BDFR. If the stock frame rails aren't rusted then I would leave them in place.

What is the benefit over l28 pistons?

3000 lb vehicle weight with 4 jacks comes to 211psi if you jacked the entire car up at once. It should be a decent bit less if you are doing one side at a time to swap wheels/tires. All you would need is a co2 tank and regulator to jack them up.

I just want to point out that was posted in the 5.9 Cummins thread about 9 months ago.