Namor

Based on what is shown, you're weights are LF - 679 RF - 660 LR - 634 RR - 707 Bite is the difference between rear tires, and Cross is the RF + LR / Total

Similar to the adapter posted, http://www.jayracing.com/haltech-c-41_42_166/haltech-idle-air-control-housing-incl-fittings-p-1112.html Designed to be used with GM stepper motor. Plenty of information on the internet regarding its use.

I just wanted to share the recent discovery of another user. Seats out of a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire fit phenomenally well once the cat-hump is taken care of. Using some 3" flat bar and using the stock seat sliders results in what I think will be a great seating position. Original post is found in this build thread http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116675-78-280z-50-ford-t5-build/

Awesome, thanks. What is the clearance like between the headrest and roof? I think I know what I'll be heading to the junkyard to get this weekend.

Your build looks great. Definitely see some things I like and will likely want to do myself. Could you possibly get some more pictures of your seats? Also, did you modify the seat mounts (the part attached to the floorpan) at all or did you just adjust the hump on the driver's side floorpan? I have been trying to find some seats to use since the originals were trashed in my car. Thanks

I know one thing you should be concerned with is bumpsteer (not sure how prevalent it can be on our cars to be honest though.) Chewing tires up a bit while on the way to get an alignment isn't that big of a deal, but hitting a bump and veering into another lane is. My brother dealt with this after installing M3 control arms on his 335i and not doing any ballpark alignment prior to driving to the shop.

I have that exact same welder and I have had 0 of the issues you mentioned.

Is it me or do pretty much none of the links for hybridz work when searching on google? This makes it essentially impossible to find old information. I thought it was bad before when links past a certain age didn't work, but now none of them do...great.

Replaced the passenger floor pan on my 77' 280z many moons ago and the seat mounts went with it. I thought there was a reproduction produced but upon searching all I could find was 240z mounts. Looking for the equivalent of what is at the following link, except for a 280z http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30 Let me know a price. Thanks

Does it have brakes? Maybe the brakes could be dragging. I really don't know though. Good luck figuring it out.

That dual axle theory would only be feasible if the axles were linked from side to side (think welded diff). Even then it would be an inside tire vs. outside tire thing though (when looking at it dragging through a specific turn), not a front axle vs. rear axle. It isn't really a possibility if all the wheels freespin though. Maybe one of the axles is slightly bent such that the toe is out; toe will cause the tires to wear very quickly.

I cut mine so that it was just the center section in the strut housing. I then filled a paint tray with PB Blaster (bought by the gallon for $20-$25 if I remember correctly) and let it sit submerged for about 4 days. After that I was able to beat them out using a sledge hammer and punch. Prior to resorting to that method, I had tried everything including having someone put it in a 10 or 15 ton press and heating with an Ocy/Acet torch. If I were to do it again, I would try to get them out and save them for maybe 15 minutes. If I couldn't save the pins I would jump straight to what worked for me in the past.

Hot Hatches for the win. I got a VW GTI new in 2011 and have loved every minute of driving it. Turbo swap + downpipe + intake = ~350 hp. I love having a car that is always underestimated.

Where did you get the firewall grommet on the passenger side from? I need something for my haltech wiring harness and I'm not having good luck finding something like that.

But you would charge $600-$800 which included prep such as interior removal, fuel rail removal, etc, right? It sounds like the shops he went to want nothing to do with all that stuff though. They just want to do the welding portion of it, aka the easy part. I don't see how the welding portion of a baddog install could take more than even 2 hours.

That sounds like a "go away" quote to me, but then again I have never went and asked around for quotes for stuff like this; I did them myself instead. Once you do all that other stuff, they should be looking at a couple hours of work at most. I couldn't see paying $800+ for that.

I entered and bolded the wire colors as they appear to me. I hope this helps.

If you choose the number of openings per inch on McMaster, the selections have the wire thickness. Since Pegasus gives that info, it's relatively easy to find the one that correlates; it even tells you the percent of open area. The real question is how closely do you want it to match what the CTS-V has. *edit* because I am bored. I took a very close look at the Cadillac grill and using some high tech software (ms paint) I determined that it is 3x3, crimped wire. Wire thickness is hard to tell from pictures online though. My best guess is .08".

Not all bolts on my Z are metric. Mind telling me the thread of the bolt that holds your seat belt clasp?

Admittedly I've never used a real nice Lincoln or Miller but I have used 2 brands that some people may consider crap and I would recommend either without hesitation. The first was a 110v Northern Tools mig. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200577737_200577737 The ONLY thing bad about it that I can think of is that more voltage settings would have been nice. Other than that, I really had no issues with it and would have no issues buying another if a 110v MIG was what I needed for a good price. The other is a 220v Eastwood mig http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders-175-amp-mig-welder-w-spool-gun.html The only thing I don't like about it is that the tip stays "hot" after use. It will cause a small spark when the residual charge on the wire discharges if you touch it to ground after you are done welding. I would have gone for a used Miller or Lincoln when i upgraded to 220v but as it turns out, they don't pop up on craigslist very often (at least not around here.) I assume you see a number of 110v units from people upgrading, but most people probably hang onto their 220v unit for good.

From what I can find, the 240z used the same wire/lights for both turn signal and brake lights. The 280z separates the two and uses the Black/Yellow wire for the brake lights. I think the 280z brake lights wouldn't work and your turn signals would operate as both turn signals and brake lights.

1. Yes you want heavy gauge wire between the battery and starter. Generally these are something around 4 or 2 gauge. Only downside to bigger is the additional weight. 2. I would stick with what was done from the factory as far as # of fuses and ratings. Unless you are upgrading something such as the fuel pump you mention in question 3. Upgrade the fusible links to fuses and the fuse block to modern fuses, but keep them wired the same. 3. Yes, basically if the original wiring isn't suitable to power your fuel pump then you run a new positive and negative to the fuel pump directly from the battery with a fuse and a relay in line. Then you wire the original fuel pump wiring to the relay. Original wires energize the relay, which will switch positions and energize the fuel pump.

I'm with Six_Shooter on this. The only reason I would ever consider a hood other than the stock one is if I need the clearance. In that case, I would try to go for a mild cowl that accentuates the center hump of the stock hood. As for vents, how effective are the 280z vents?

I personally would try to find another way but if it's something you want to do, it is definitely doable.

Seconded. If you planned to stick with a traditional lead acid battery it would make more sense to move that 40+ lbs to the rear. But if you plan on going with a braille, the weight redistribution doesn't seem worth the trouble. You say you have been eyeing the space you would recapture, do you have plans for the area where the battery sits now?