Mayolives

I have watched that video many times and it is no less exciting today than it was the first time it viewed it. Hans drives the wheels off that BumEU.

quote: " Do you try to catch the peak or take the stabilized reading?" I'm no expert at set up or tire temp. readings and I've only been using my probe for one season, but I'm more concerned with the temperature variation from inside, center and outside readings, than I am with the actual temperature reading.

I have Longacre's duel function IF with probe. The best of both worlds with many uses.

I need a ticket to admit one for the upcoming Performance Racing Industry Show in Orlando December 11-13. If you have an extra one, I sure would like to have it. A pm with details would be great.

I purchased the BHJ damper, wheel and mount from Dave Rebello.

More food for thought. After a recent valve job, I could not get enough lash on several valves. I'm using Schneider's cam, springs and retainers, The billet was new when I first installed it. Then I discovered that several rockers were touching the retainers on the outer edge and were actually pivoting on the retainer and not on the valve stem. The solution was easy. By sanding/smoothing off the underside of the rockers, I was able to get the proper lash. Several of the rockers had small "nicks" on them, indication to me that they had been touching the retainers before I refreshed to top end.

Fuel filter??????????

I didn't weigh the original ones or the fg pieces when I installed the but I assure you, the WAS as difference. The fg weighs much less. A pound here. A pound there. It all adds up!

This is how Roddy at Speed Design, Inc did mine. (Shamless plug)

I like your car. Nice job!

Like the NASCAR guys say, "just one of them racin thangs". If keeping a race car together was easy and without hassle, the track would be flooded with boneheads.

Get a radiator pressure tester and pump a little air into the system. The leak should then be visible. You can probably get the tester from a loaner program at your local Advance Auto parts store.

"You need to stay married???" My God man, get your priorities straight. Or do I go to the track too much? Humm...

Z1 Motorsports, in the Atlanta area had, a 300zx with an L6 installed. It was a customer's car and it had been stored there for some time. It was a full caged, race car that I was told, had come from Canada. It was a very interesting car and may have been a stroker due to the high, fast reving sound of it. Too bad I didn't get some pictures.

MSA advertises it but they do not have one in stock. It's on the boat, somewhere out there.

I'm looking for a replacement HKS 1mm, 91mm bore head gasket but I'm being told they are no longer available. Any ideas as to where I can find one? The Kameari website shows a 1mm, 90.5mm one for the L6. Any opinions on that one and the best place to get it?

These guys are located in Salisbury NC and build axles for race cars. They made a set for me last year. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/contact.php

Phantom.....To my way of thinking; worn valve guides or valve seals should produce smoke at start up. I have none. Is my logic correct? There is no water in the oil. If my head gasket was bad, wouldn't that have show up during my leak down test? When I did the leak down, I purposly pumped about 125 psi into each cylinder and could not make the water move in the radiator. I would think that much pressure should have exposed any head leak or any crack in the block that would push water into the jackets. Am I missing something here? JT1.......Do I need to remove my head in order to check the guides and seals? Is there any other way. I'm really trying to avoid that. Just my lazy, slack ass speaking to me.

grumpyvette.........QUOTE "on deceleration only tends to indicate valve seals, or worn valve guides" I did another hot compression test today with all cylinder around 150 plus or minus 3 points. So that's all good. Also, I did a leak down test on all cylinders and all are nearly the same. This tests should rule out problems with rings, guides, valve seals and head gasket. I bit the bullet on removed the turbo system and found a very, very small amount of residue in the downpipe so I will have the seals replaced in the Garrett and try it again along with retuning the tech 3r. In my earlier post I mentioned using some coolant. Could I be leaking coolant through the turbo and that causing the white smoke? My cooling system uses a 25 psi cap. During the leak down tests, I put compressed air to each cylinder and could not make the water in the radiator move or bubble. TonyD.........You were correct about an exhaust leak causing the bad breathing condition in the cabin. The gasket between the Garrett and the downpipe was gone with the wind!

Tony D quote "1/4 a quart over a three-day track event? That's not oil consumption." Yes, I'm not concerned about the amount of oil being consumed. I know that's normal. Perhaps I should have said more about the visible smoke. It's more than a puff. It now is more like a cloud. Enough to cause a black flag last weekend because the corner workers thought that I might be putting oil on the track. They did allow me to run after I assured them that I wasn't leaking any oil. I have a catch breather system plumbed with a -6 line from the valve cover to a can with small top breather/filter that sets on the fire wall. I have another one plumbed with a -10 coming from the driver's side of the block to a can with small top filter/breather. The one from the valve cover had about an inch of blow-by oil in it but not nearly full. The lower can was empty. Tony, you refered to an "oil mist eliminator on the block PCV vent before it goes to the suction line of the turbo" What is that? Please tell me more. Thanks, Tom.

cygnusx1...............I do use some water due to radiator (S&R) being a little undersized. I have always pushed water into my oversized catch can located under the spoiler. I don't' think the smoke is from coolant because it seams to lay in the air and not dissipate quickly like water vapor normally does. Also, I'm using Wilwood brake master and clutch cylinders without a brake booster so the smoke can't be from brake fluid.

Tony, What width tires are typically used on these cars? They are really "tucked" under the body work, especially the front. Man, that thing looks like it's going 200 when setting still! I just can't imagine it going faster without the slick front end shown in the 07 pictures.

My track car has a two year old turbo engine with 2380 all track miles on the clock. I'm blowing whitest smoke only on deceleration. No smoke on start up or acceleration. Compression ranges from 148 to 143 on all six. Oil consumption is slight using only 1/4 quart at a recent three day track event, which is normal consumption since build. Turbo is a GT35-R and I run 18# boost at maximum. Also, I'm using Electromotive Tech3R fuel and engine management with all their bells and whistles except the cold start fuel enrichment part. So where is the smoke coming from? I'm getting smoke in the cabin that burns my eyes. Turbo oil seal? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

The answer lies in the old adage about risk verses reward and what's at risk for YOU and YOU only! Think about it. Can YOU risk taking the chance and then being able to be happy with any result? The decision is easy. Weigh the effort required to properly disassemble and clean your head against the effort required to repair what could happen if you decide not to take a closer look. Aint it a bitch!