Mayolives

Nice...............Very well done.

I removed my 500e from storage today. It had a half tank of 93 octane that is at least 18 months old. After dealing with a dead battery, it started up, revved fine and idled smooth. I drove it for more than an hour and it ran just like it should.

BJHINES....Ding Ding..........Thanks John. Good information.

I normally don't even read "sappy" threads, especially on Hybridz. But here I am reading and responding, twenty some odd years after meeting my lady and love of my life that happened at first site. There have been numerous others since her, but all have had engines, rubber to meet the road, occasionally left me down and were comparatively, short lived love affairs.

John, All your work looks very nice. Tic..Tock...........Let's get that thing together soon. We need another zzzzzzzzmonster in the paddock. Any chance you will have ut ready for the THSCC event at CMP?

Remove the inside nut and then use a slide hammer. Most auto parts stores will allow you to borrow one if you need to.

QUOTE "The one question I have is what are the Wilwood rotor numbers so that we can purchase replacements from say Summit racing? I believe they are UL-32 rotors and the part numbers are 160-5845 and 160-5846 but just not sure. What do you all say?" You can easily measure and then compare you findings with Wilwood's published dimensions and then determine which part you have. However, Arizona Z Car, can supply you with any needed replacement parts at a price that is similar to the other suppliers you mentioned. Why not "dance with the one who brung you" ? Dave has always come through for me!

A few days ago I had a conversation concerning this subject with Roddy at Speed Design Inc. (titaniumZ). I always respect his input concerning aerodynamics and race car fabrication in general. I ask his opinion about the effectiveness of the 2 1/2" tall roof strips that run lengthwise on the roof of car of tomorrow and more importantly, could I install roof stripes on my race car to improve aerodynamics. Apparently, NASCAR mandates these stripes because wind tunnel test would suggest they help prevent the car from flipping when turned sideways during a spin or accident. However, Roddy thought they may help to clean up the air and prevent "spill-over" which may provide more down force on the s30. So, are the drip rails a mini version of the COT's roof strips? Could they provide more stability at speed? My guess would be an added roof strip could work well on a drag race car traveling in a straight line but could possibly slow down a road course car that maneuvered lots of corners. Without wind tunnel testing, all the above is merely hot air and "guess-tamation" on my part.

I have Arizona's six piston setup on the front and their four pistons for the rear of my track car. They have been, without a question, rock solid and predictable at the limit with aggressive Wilwood pads. I'm even happy with rotor and pad longevity.

QUOTE "there seams to be a major design flaw" Please tell us more about the flaw.

I like your story and perhaps it will encourage someone here. Apparently you have recently joined the forum, but man..............you need to work on spelling and punctuation. Reading your post was annoying as hell!

I like it and my thanks to MSA for support of the sometime unloved zx. My 82 would look real good with that peice installed!

What kind of power will you be making? If you plan to make a bunch, I would plan on running larger feeder and return lines. The pump manufacturer can recommend sizes for you. I running a -8 from the Aeromotive pump and a -6 for the return. (http://www.aeromotiveinc.com)

Absolutely gorgeous work. Like someone said above, Ill be looking at these pictures for the next few days. Those cars make mine look like junk. Sorry, Titaniumz, I didn't mean that.

Roostmonkey................What is the capacity of your surge tank?

I've been using AZC's five lug alumnium race hubs on my track car for a couple of years. I originally bought them because they were alumnium and would help to lower the rotating mass number. They are a quality part but I did manage to spin a few of the long wheel studs in the hubs. They are on a road race car and see many tire/wheel changes. I reinstalled new studs and set them in JB Weld and have had no problems since. I'll point out that I also spun a few of the rear wheel studs in the steel axles. I then spot welded those in place. This problem could have been caused by poor splines on the ARP studs. But........All is well that ends well.

I daily drive my 82ZXT when I don't need my diesel drinking Dodge. It's a GL model with some suspension mods, upgraded headlights, better rotors and brake shoes with performance tires. With the exception of the quirky air conditioning system, It's a fun car to drive and doesn't beat you up too bad like my 280z cars did. It's not a Mercedes but it's leather seats are reasonably comfortable, it's fast and gets mid to upper 20 something mpg when I can keep my foot from making boost.

Grass Roots Motorsports magazine's latest edition tests a number of low cost performance tires.

Dennis, I'm using ferrea valves in my p90. I'll look through my receipts and find the dealer's name for you.

Boost Logic and others, manufacture a blanket that wraps around the turbo that significantly reduces under hood temps. My buddy has one on a Neon track car and it does work. You can actually put your hand on the wrapped turbo after being on track. I'm reluctant to install one on my GT35r equipped, race car due to the possibility of damaging the turbo. I emailed Garrett for their take on the subject, but they choose not to respond. Does anyone have experience with this product or have an opinion about it's use? By the way, the hot part of my system have been Jet-Hot coated.

Get safe and go fast...................In that order. Good vid!!!!!!!!

Derek, This is a very interesting thread. You are doing a nice job with showing the procedure of improving flow of the basic intake design. Please show us some pictures of the Lumiweld results. Keep up the good work. Your posts are excellent examples of why Hybridz is the "tits."

I have 7/16" clearance between the shaft and a big custom downpipe set up. The clearance between the bolt that goes through the shaft and the exhaust is about 1/4" and upon close inspection, there is evidence of these parts making contact at some point. The downpipe has a light "marred" area that has been touched by the bolt. This is a track car and not street driven but I have never felt these parts making contact nor has this interfered with my poor driving techniques but I may use this set up as an excuse for my slower lap times next week at VIR. It may go something like this. " I had to left early because my steering wouldn't turn." As to adding a spacer under the drivers side engine mount, I'm now considering it. Thanks for the "heads up".

BJ...............Your car is moving along. Will we see it on track this summer? Good job on the fire system. Be sure the pull cable is secure and wont allow some dumba** to pull it away from the bottle.